Finishing and sealing Outdoor furniture

[dennis thompson]

I'm making an Adirondack chair for my grandson. What is the best protection to put on it? I'm particularly interested in how to seal the legs where they come in contact with the ground.
Thanks

[Alan Lightstone]

I used System 3 epoxy, as base coats, followed by Epifanes Marine Varnish. I've had an outdoor Titanic Deck chair sitting in the Florida sun for a few years now, and the finish still looks great. The feet don't touch the grass though, they're on a deck.

[Josko Catipovic]

I would encourage you to look at Sikkens Cetol. It's not as pretty as varnish but needs much less maintenance. As for the feet, I'd dip the end grain in WEST epoxy thinned 1:1 with acetone. That should permeate it up into the endgrain right at the contact points.

[John C Bush]

I make Adirondack chairs and benches using old 1 x 8 cedar fencing and glue and screw end caps of scrap Ipe, purple heart, or whatever rot and abrasion resistant remnants are in the "why throw this good wood away" box(es). This old fencing was built in the '50's and tho still solid I found out the hard way it wicks water up the end grain and breaks down after a couple of years out in the weather.

[Sean Leonard]

I used System 3 epoxy, as base coats, followed by Epifanes Marine Varnish. I've had an outdoor Titanic Deck chair sitting in the Florida sun for a few years now, and the finish still looks great. The feet don't touch the grass though, they're on a deck.

How long did you wait for the epoxy base coats to cure before applying the Epifanes? I’ve seen some recommend a full two weeks for a thorough cure, but the West Systems user manual only specifies one-part polyurethanes and polyester gel coats need to have a thorough cure.

I’m planning on two coats of West Systems 105/207, followed by Epifanes within 48 hours. Wondering if I need to give it more time or raise the temperature in the shop to speed the curing?