Hot Melt Glue Gun?

[David Eisenhauer]

I don't know a thing about these but it looks like it would be handy to quickly stick something together and then be able to peel it off later or (if it works that way) then screw the parts down for a more permanent solution. Can anyone recommend a particular gun and or glues best suited for woodworking?

[Jerry Wright]

You can get fancy, but I have used an inexpensive HF set up for several years. Good place to start and learn how they would work for you.

[Tom M King]

One trouble with Hot Glue, well maybe not trouble, but something to take into consideration, is that it always has some thickness added between the pieces glued together.

[Curt Harms]

I have an Arrow brand hot melt gun. It does what I expect it to do but takes several minutes to get to operating temperature. A higher wattage gun would be welcome. I think most hot melt glue guns are oriented toward arts and crafts type usage. The bonds created are not real strong in my experience but they certainly are convenient. One trick I did learn when doing a solid surface project. Fabricators use hot melt glue to fasten clamping blocks. Once the pieces are set they just spray the clamping blocks with alcohol and the blocks pop off with no residue left on the clamped material. There is a hot melt system that uses a polyurethane adhesive. I think that bond it pretty strong.

[David Eisenhauer]

Temporary attachment of clamping blocks is a use I had in mind Curt. Thanks to all of you for the info.

[Edwin Santos]

One trouble with Hot Glue, well maybe not trouble, but something to take into consideration, is that it always has some thickness added between the pieces glued together.

This is why I was taught to never use hot glue between two pieces. Use it like a tack welder, laying down a bead where pieces meet. I use it a lot for jigs, temporary blocks, stop blocks. Like someone else pointed out, denatured or isopropyl alcohol will release it. Some people just cut through it with a utility knife to release.

[David Eisenhauer]

Thanks Edwin. Those are the uses I had in mind. So far, I have a recommendation for HF and Arrow brands. I looked briefly into some reviews and immediately noticed lots of verbiage about different wattages available on different brands. Can anyone as to their idea of the lowest useful wattage and/or if higher wattages result in diminishing returns?

[Randy Heinemann]

I bought the Dremel gun. I don't use it often but it worked well when I have used it.

[Edwin Santos]

Thanks Edwin. Those are the uses I had in mind. So far, I have a recommendation for HF and Arrow brands. I looked briefly into some reviews and immediately noticed lots of verbiage about different wattages available on different brands. Can anyone as to their idea of the lowest useful wattage and/or if higher wattages result in diminishing returns?

David,
The hot glue gun I use the most is a DeWalt that I got at Home Depot over the holidays one year when they were basically giving them away as a promotion item. I don't know that it is particularly high end, but I can tell you I use mine several times a week, and it does what I want it to do, including heating up rapidly. https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-C...GR50/204293086

I also have an ancient Black and Decker model that will allow detachment from the power cord, so you can take it to wherever without a dangling cord and then bring it back to the bench to plug in. But I still end up using the DeWalt a lot more.
There are higher end glue guns available, even cordless ones, but I can't speak to whether they are worth it or not, and unfortunately I can't say much about the advantages of different wattages. If the wattage is sufficient to melt the glue, I do not understand why you'd need more. Maybe heat up time?

I picked up a pack of glue sticks made by the Gorilla Glue company, you can see them here: https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Stick...9213345&sr=8-5
Once again, they do the job, and more evidence that I'm not a big spender.

I could not live without my hot glue gun. On busy days in the shop, plugging in the hot glue gun is the first thing I do in the morning. I have found hundreds of uses for the damn thing.

Lately, I've taken to making scale or full size models of projects to evaluate the design and dimensions. I cut up cheap foam core at the band saw,and then hot glue the parts together in minutes.

Cutting small parts safely and precisely is always a challenge at the table saw or band saw. One good way is to tack weld hot glue the part to a carrier board, and then make your cut. Cutting crown molding at the miter saw? Lay a piece of molding upside down up against the fence and table, and then hot glue a batten on the table to establish a temporary fence at your spring angle, and now you're simply mitering (saw Tom Silva do this on TOH). The uses go on and on (at least for me).
Hope this helps.
Edwin

[Richard Coers]

Be aware that the temporary requirement you ask about for your hot glue depends on the temperature and selection of glue. High temp and professional grade glue can be stronger than the wood fiber and often stronger than the adhesive in plywood. More than once a tap with a hammer to remove a block has resulted in the top veneer of the piece of plywood coming with it. Also the glue can stay in the pores of the wood and causing a big headache with stain and finishing.

[Edwin Santos]

Be aware that the temporary requirement you ask about for your hot glue depends on the temperature and selection of glue. High temp and professional grade glue can be stronger than the wood fiber and often stronger than the adhesive in plywood. More than once a tap with a hammer to remove a block has resulted in the top veneer of the piece of plywood coming with it. Also the glue can stay in the pores of the wood and causing a big headache with stain and finishing.

Can't speak for the professional grade hot glue you are speaking of, but I have never experienced hot glue that had a low enough viscosity to penetrate and stay in wood pores. Instead of tapping with force to remove, I usually use alcohol, and the glue will come off together, like in a ball or clump.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Can't speak for the professional grade hot glue you are speaking of, but I have never experienced hot glue that had a low enough viscosity to penetrate and stay in wood pores. Instead of tapping with force to remove, I usually use alcohol, and the glue will come off together, like in a ball or clump.

My professional hot glue gun is much hotter and the glue ripped off melamine facing it stuck to it so well. Depending on what you are doing, you might not want that level of adhesion.

[David Eisenhauer]

Thanks to everyone for your responses. I will plow through what is available and pick one out. I don't believe that I need a big/hot/melamine destroying unit just to stick some jigs, fixtures and stop blocks together.

[Osvaldo Cristo]

I don't know a thing about these but it looks like it would be handy to quickly stick something together and then be able to peel it off later or (if it works that way) then screw the parts down for a more permanent solution. Can anyone recommend a particular gun and or glues best suited for woodworking?

20200511_194235.jpg

Mine I purchased (almost) 30 years ago in St. Paul, MN. Glue made in Canada and gun made in the US. The gun and glue work great yet - last time I used them was a few days ago to help with a temporary fixture. I highly recommend that ones, probably outlive myself!

[Dan Gaylin]

David,

After being disappointed with my Arrow gun I bought one on Amazon by Chandler. It has a handful of negative reviews but I have found it much better than the arrow. It gets hotter and stays hot longer. It doesn’t drip. It’s bigger and more comfortable in my hands. It has a built in stand and an on/off switch. It does take about 5 minutes to heat up. I think this gun is a high end hobby gun and not commercial.