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Thread: Hegner Multimax-18 Scroll Saw Story

  1. #1
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    Hegner Multimax-18 Scroll Saw Story

    Maybe a year ago, a neighbor of mine (a few houses away) told me he had a scroll saw that he didn't use and he'd give it to me. I didn't push him because I have a scroll saw and don't use it a lot - but I told him I'd take it, expecting it to be some cheap (maybe Chinese) scroll saw. My neighbor is not a woodworker - I think he inherited the saw from a family member and just wanted to get it out of his garage.

    A week ago, he pulled into my driveway and unloaded the scroll saw - a Hegner Multimax-18 with a manufacturing date of 1990. It was dirty, missing parts, and obviously had not been used in a loooong time. I put it in my shop, cleaned it up and ordered the needed parts. For example, when I went to clean the bellows they just fell apart from dry rot, and there were no blade clamps. It was over $100 for the parts.

    After I received the parts I installed them and tried out the saw - works great.

    Now I have to decide what to do with the saw. What I'm thinking of doing is putting a large scroll saw blade in the saw, maybe a #12, and using it for cutting complex parts. If that works, I could put a wide (1") blade in my 20" bandsaw and wouldn't have to keep changing blades on the bandsaw.

    Otherwise, I could sell it but I would feel bad selling something that was a gift to me.

    Any ideas on the best use for a scroll saw like this?

    Mike

    Hegner-Multimax-18-001.jpgHegner-Multimax-18-002.jpg
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  2. #2
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    Double bevel marquetry

  3. #3
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    I would put a 1” carbide blade on your 20” bandsaw and never touch the blade again. Sell one of the two scroll saws and put that money towards a 14” bandsaw that would do all the small cutting you suggest for the scroll saw.
    I don’t like cutting thick wood (over 1/4”) on a scroll saw. The Hegner Saw is a great saw but would not be my first choice for Marquetry.

  4. #4
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    I was thinking about adding a solid scroll saw and just leave a carbide 3/4'' blade in my bandsaw, if you go this way, please leave an update if this works out well. I don't have much experience with premium scroll saws.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by John Sincerbeaux View Post
    I would put a 1” carbide blade on your 20” bandsaw and never touch the blade again. Sell one of the two scroll saws and put that money towards a 14” bandsaw that would do all the small cutting you suggest for the scroll saw...
    Agree 100%

    Erik
    Felder USA Territory Representative: Central & South Texas

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by John Sincerbeaux View Post
    I would put a 1” carbide blade on your 20” bandsaw and never touch the blade again. Sell one of the two scroll saws and put that money towards a 14” bandsaw that would do all the small cutting you suggest for the scroll saw.
    I don’t like cutting thick wood (over 1/4”) on a scroll saw. The Hegner Saw is a great saw but would not be my first choice for Marquetry.
    is your objection for marquetry a scroll saw in general or the Hegner specifically? Silas Kopf and Jim McDonald both use scroll saws for marquetry.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dennis Yamamoto View Post
    Double bevel marquetry
    I already do marquetry - that's why I have another scroll saw. Example:

    TrayBox210.jpg

    My other scroll saw is an Hawk RBI with a 26" throat.

    Mike
    Last edited by Mike Henderson; 05-04-2020 at 5:00 PM.
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Sincerbeaux View Post
    I would put a 1” carbide blade on your 20” bandsaw and never touch the blade again. Sell one of the two scroll saws and put that money towards a 14” bandsaw that would do all the small cutting you suggest for the scroll saw.
    I don’t like cutting thick wood (over 1/4”) on a scroll saw. The Hegner Saw is a great saw but would not be my first choice for Marquetry.
    Sounds like a good idea. Which carbide blade would you recommend?

    Mike
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  9. #9
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    Nice Marquetry Mike. I’m thinking you might be a Paul Schurch disciple? I am as well.
    I have a 1” Lenox Woodmaster CT on my 20” Agazzani. It is a great resale blade.
    Two years ago, I completely committed to learning and using the double bevel technique opposed to “packet” style I had been doing for years. I now use only shop sawn veneer (1/16”) which to me is so much nicer to work with opposed to commercial veneer. I also searched and found a 30” Excalibur scroll saw which is so much nicer than my previous Dewalt. The tilting head makes it better for bvl cutting. Silas Kopf uses an Excalibur scroll saw.
    I don’t remember if the Hegner has a tilting head or table but I don’t like how the blade is attached to the head. Kinda fussy. I do have a friend in Holland that uses a Hegner and his Marquetry is as good or better than Silas’s.

  10. #10
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    Thanks for the bandsaw blade recommendation. I took a class with Paul Schurch some years ago. I am limited in my marquetry because I just don't have the artistic talent to draw the designs.

    The Hegner and the RBi that I have are tilting table saws. The tilting head seems like a nice advantage. You really lucked into a nice saw there.

    The question I've always had about shop sawn veneer is what do you use for green (for leaves)?

    Mike
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Sincerbeaux View Post
    I have a 1” Lenox Woodmaster CT on my 20” Agazzani. It is a great resale blade.
    I don't know about the resale value of a Woodmaster CT, but I have one on my 20" MM and love it. It's a couple of years old and about time to order another one. I also have an older 14" Grizzly steel framed saw for scroll work, and an RBI Hawk that I found for a price so cheap I couldn't pass it up. I don't use it often but it's handy when I need it.

  12. #12
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    hi all - seems to have become a marquetry discussion - i use the double bevel method - i started with a hegner and then found a 30" xcalibur - i really like the tilting head rather than the table tilting - it helps with large pieces not having to fight gravity. also appreciate the top-down threading of the saw blade. the depth of throat is also a plus for those fewer big pieces.

    i have a mm16 to cut veneers to 5/64 (older delta 14" for the other band saw work) - as john described - the mm is dedicated to re-sawing using a 1" resaw king from laguna. the blade has been great and laguna will resharpen them - last time i did it i think it was $40 and usually get 2 sharpenings.
    green veneer is a hard one - some poplar is pretty green - but usually when xposed to sunlight (and time) it can fade to a light brown. there are dyed veneers - i can't remember the source right now - but if no one else has one i'll search it out.
    the other tough color is blue - closest i have come is blue mahoe

    jerry
    jerry

  13. #13
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    I have a Lennox on my Aggie 24", Mike. Nice blade and looks like it can be resharpened, but I have never enquired about it.
    Rick Potter

    DIY journeyman,
    FWW wannabe.
    AKA Village Idiot.

  14. #14
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    sorry - i could not find the company i was thinking of - pretty sure it was in london - that had thick dyed veneer. attached is a piece that shows some greens out of different pieces of poplar - ranges from very dark green to very pale

    just could not figure out how to get it vertical
    jerry
    Attached Images Attached Images
    jerry

  15. #15
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    Nice to have good neighbors! I have the same Hegner and use it for double bevel. I also use a woodmaster ct on my 18” aggi, and almost as often just cut veneer with a 1/2” Lenox bimetallic blade. I don’t use dyed veneers so cant help there. So not adding much here..good problem to have!
    "You can observe a lot just by watching."
    --Yogi Berra

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