Tung Oil application

[Bob East]

I'm doing my 1st project with pure tung oil, a cherry & maple sofa table.
I've read several articles & posts on using tung oil but find myself with a problem.
I've been experimenting on the underside of the table top so as not to screw up the good side. After sanding to 220 grit, I used a water based sanding sealer thinned to 50-50 with water, then sanded the raised grain with 320 grit sandpaper after several hours. Surface felt very smooth to the touch. Blew off sanding dust and wiped down with clean towels.
Then applied tung oil mixed 50/50 with mineral spirits, to about 1/2 the area (wanted to 'save' some unfinished area to test a different finish if I didn't like the 1st application). I applied more as it was absorbed then let it stand for 20 min, then wiped it with clean dry towel until there was no oil left on the wood. I let it dry overnight.
The next afternoon it seemed dry, no tackyness or reside coming off on clean paper towel. Most of the treated area had a nice gloss but part of it felt much rougher. It looked like it had the same color are the smoother portion but it almost felt like the grain had risen due to water.
Sanded that down, cleaned off residue dust & applied a 2nd full strength coat of tung oil. Let that dry for 48 hrs., and I'm seeing more unevenness in the finish. Not like raised grain but like the oil seeped out of the wood after wiping down.
I'm familiar with oak needing to be wiped down several times after oiling but not cherry or maple. Am I putting down too heavy a coat of tung oil?

Thanks for any advice you can give!

[Stan Calow]

What exact brand of tung oil did you use?

[Jim Becker]

If you are going to use a drying oil for your finish...the "sanding sealer" is going disallow the oil to penetrate the wood. Also, when you use oil, after application and letting it set for a few minutes, you wipe off any excess and then let it cure. You never leave a heavy coat on the workpiece.

[Bob East]

What exact brand of tung oil did you use?

It's Milk Paint Pure Tung Oil.

[Bob East]

If you are going to use a drying oil for your finish...the "sanding sealer" is going disallow the oil to penetrate the wood. Also, when you use oil, after application and letting it set for a few minutes, you wipe off any excess and then let it cure. You never leave a heavy coat on the workpiece.

So the sanding sealer won't help avoid blotching in the cherry? That's why I was using it.

Thanks!

[Jerry Thompson]

I have used polymerized tung oil on many cherry items and I have never noticed any blotching. Do a test piece. That way your table is not the test piece.

[Jim Becker]

So the sanding sealer won't help avoid blotching in the cherry? That's why I was using it.

Thanks!

One man's "blotch" is another man's "figure". I'm in the latter category and always put oil directly on the wood. With cherry, everything will most likely even out over reasonable time even if initially there is uneven color due to the figure in the wood.