Clamping odd angles

[andy bessette]

Another thing I sometimes do is screw blocks of scrap to my benchtop, just a little away from the assembly to be glued up, and drive wedges between the the blocks and the assembly to tighten the joints.

[bill epstein]

I'm surprised no one's mentioned band clamps. I've used the Jorgensen's for years to clamp large mitered corner boxes. From the pic I would think that would work

Just yesterday, I picked up a Bessey band clamp to try and it's got it all over the Jorgensen's.
A reel for the band and fine adjustment with an additional handle.

[Thomas McCurnin]

I started saving stout angled cutoffs a few years ago and spray painting them my typical jig yellow (so I don’t throw them out) and marking the angle. I use them for taper jigs and clamping.

[Doug Garson]

Have a look at this video around the 10 min mark, he does a glue up very similar to yours. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DIh_sXuv1QY

[Jamie Buxton]

I used the technique Edwin shows, but found that the clamp away from the joint would sometimes slide. So now I extend the arm until i can add a hook that wraps around the end of the workpiece.

[Jamie Buxton]

Here's a pic. I'm gluing up the long miter joint that forms a waterfall end on a countertop. Down at the floor, you can see the hooks that wrap around the end of the work.

waterfallglueup.jpg

[Edwin Santos]

I used the technique Edwin shows, but found that the clamp away from the joint would sometimes slide. So now I extend the arm until i can add a hook that wraps around the end of the workpiece.

Jamie, did the sliding happen even if using coarse sandpaper glued to the underneath of the caul?

I like the extended arm and hook for a really demanding situation though. What your photo shows will not allow for any movement no matter how hard you clamp. Nice looking work!

[Jamie Buxton]

Jamie, did the sliding happen even if using coarse sandpaper glued to the underneath of the caul?

I like the extended arm and hook for a really demanding situation though. What your photo shows will not allow for any movement no matter how hard you clamp. Nice looking work!

I don't remember. I changed to the hook a long time ago.

To compare with and without the hook... Without, you get a block you can keep and use on many pieces of furniture -- well, as long as the miter angle is the same. With the hook approach, you need a new clamp device for each clamping situation. I usually just cut them crudely out of whatever scrap is hanging around, and put throw them back in the scrap bin when I'm done.

[Chris Fournier]

Dedicated cauls with geometry that directs the clamping pressure to bisect the joint angle is often my go to and if the glue up is a bear I glue the cauls with newsprint in the joint so the hold well enough but pop off and clean up easily.

There is no such thing as a ruined inner tube around me, I cut then into a continuous strip along the radius and these long rubber bands can be used to clamp any shape that you can create. And the price is right!

[mreza Salav]

There are different strengths of painters tape. The beige one is the strongest. If you use that on the surface of the wood and then glue another cut-off to that it would hold pretty strongly. The you can pair it off and remove the tape.

[Paul F Mills]

I'm surprised no one's mentioned band clamps. I've used the Jorgensen's for years to clamp large mitered corner boxes. From the pic I would think that would work

Just yesterday, I picked up a Bessey band clamp to try and it's got it all over the Jorgensen's.
A reel for the band and fine adjustment with an additional handle.

i bought a band clamp a few months ago and have yet to take it out of the package. I guess I should check it out.

[Paul F Mills]

Have a look at this video around the 10 min mark, he does a glue up very similar to yours. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DIh_sXuv1QY

that looks a lot like the photo Edwin posted. I will try it on the arms this weekend.

[Paul F Mills]

I used the technique Edwin shows, but found that the clamp away from the joint would sometimes slide. So now I extend the arm until i can add a hook that wraps around the end of the workpiece.

I will keep that in mind. Someone else mentioned roughing up the surface a little, so I will try that too.

[Mel Fulks]

I've used the blocks and they work well. I glue them with cardboard between the surfaces, then it's easy to knock them
off and scrape the remaining paper.

[Paul F Mills]

There are different strengths of painters tape. The beige one is the strongest. If you use that on the surface of the wood and then glue another cut-off to that it would hold pretty strongly. The you can pair it off and remove the tape.

I just used the standard blue tape I had on hand, I will look for the beige tape.