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Thread: Straight Line Rip on Tablesaw w/ Feeders?

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    65,885
    Quote Originally Posted by Richard Coers View Post
    You could always invest in a CNC router, they are great for straight lining.
    Yes, they can cut straight lines...VERY straight lines. But setting up to do this for solid stock just isn't something that's generally done with such a machine. It's not efficient. Further, the cost of a CNC with "only" an 8' bed is still pretty substantial, even if it's a "kit" machine from Avid CNC (formerly CNC Router Parts) or similar. Where I use my CNC for "processing" solid stock the most is for surfacing slabs that can't fit through my thickness planer...as long as they can fit on the machine's bed. (my capacity is only 50" on the y axis)
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Ouray Colorado
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    1,402
    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Jenness View Post
    Joe, I used that same jig from Tage Frid's first book. He was a very practical fellow who could produce sophisticated results with relatively simple resources and a straightforward approach. In the same vein, I recall a quote from Charles Hayward to the effect of "No matter how complicated a veneer job you are planning, remember that some oldtimer accomplished its equal with little more than a knife, a pan of hot glue, and a lump of iron."
    This reference dates us for sure Kevin. 😊
    I’m going to make one of these for my T17. Even with a SLR it’s handy to have something that requires no setup to use. I cannot see a feeder ever working for this. Even with a SLR the material has to be well faced with no twist to get a good glue joint.

  3. #33
    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Calhoon View Post
    I cannot see a feeder ever working for this. Even with a SLR the material has to be well faced with no twist to get a good glue joint.
    I straight line/glueline rip in the shop with a feeder on TS all the time but not at regularly at 10'+ though we have in a pinch with a shop fabricated long fence. Not something I would be interested in doing on any type of regular basis. No different than anything it may require a second round after dry fit but when its the only short option available it does work. Uber-long fence, super rigid, good setup on the feeder.

    I have a monster shop built fence that hangs on the wall that allows for feeder straight line and glue line rip of 9' material with the feeder and we have built one-of fences for rare batches of 15' work that get tossed and rebuilt as needed. For just a couple boards that are within the stroke of the slider we use the slider but if there is a bunch to be glue line ripped we use the feeder as its way faster, less operator fatigue, more consistent, way better blade life.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Ouray Colorado
    Posts
    1,402
    Mark,
    I was just referring to using the feeder only without a fence to get a glue joint. I’m sure with a feeder and fence you can get a glue joint.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Dickinson, Texas
    Posts
    7,655
    Blog Entries
    1
    If I rip, I normally run the pieces through my jointer and if need be I will rip the joined pieces and re-glue the pieces.
    I get good results with this technique.

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