Jointer Dust Flange Design

[Erik Loza]

I really do not understand all this worry about airflow for a intake. It seems to me their design would funnel out to cover all the intake if there is 1-2 feet of room upstream. Why worry if sawdust builds up in the non flow areas.

Well, it's planer chips, which are totally different than table saw sawdust. Design really does matter in this case. You want to keep exhaust velocity as high as possible and no right angles. On the odd occasion when I've run the planer without a dust collector hooked up, which I guess would be like having an extreme version of this design that looks like a cornhole board, the machine spits a ton of chips back onto the workpiece and clogs the snorkel almost immediately. Just my experience.

Erik

[Jim Becker]

Well, it's planer chips, which are totally different than table saw sawdust. Design really does matter in this case. Y

This right here is the crux of the issue...the nature of the shavings that come off the material that's being jointed (or planed in the case of a thicknesser function) as they behave differently than the tiny chips that come off a saw blade, etc. The funnel design is critical as it transitions air flow from a narrow, rectangular port at the cutter head to an appropriately sized port to the duct work, maintaining the same area relative to air volume, etc. Even a properly designed hood can sometimes get clogged up with certain cuts in certain wood species!

[David Utterback]

Following up on my comment. Had I been joining a lot of wood, the accumulation could have covered the motor. The stand does not have a bottom. Thinking more about this, I have way too low collection volume and the chips are large and have irregular shape which increases drag. I need to get that cyclone that has been on my wish list for far too long!

[Darcy Warner]

I have made several large planer dust hoods. All you really need to know is size of square part, diameter of hook up and height. It's simple math from there. Just need snips and a half way decent way of making ok bends.

[Mark e Kessler]

Go to a local sheet metal shop And have it fabricated like Bill suggested I had several welded up for me over the years on a jointer and a j/p, unfortunately long gone so no photos... also funnel, smooth transitions are best...

Mk

[Patrick Kane]

So i have a hack's version of their design(made with 1/2" ply and 6" HVAC fitting) on my 20" jointer, and i can tell you the lack of a funnel compromises collection. I get a considerable amount of buildup along the sides of the jointer interior before the inlet. My setup works well enough and cost me $6, but if you are spending $100, might as well do it right. Really, if i wanted to do it right, i would extend the DC point up as close to the cutterhead as possible. As it stands, shavings slide down a 2' ramp before my inlet.

[Ryan Yeaglin]

What you are looking for is a offset square to round. Any metal fab shop should be able to handle this, HVAC shops don't usually deal with dust collection and make fittings for blown air, so there would be hang ups. I'm a journeyman sheet metal mechanic, but work in industrial fabrication. A flat plate will work, it really depends on how much CFM your duct collector is pulling. Also if you plan on having a fab shop make you a fitting, provide them with a drawing of what your after. Attached is a something I came up with quick. I had to use paint since, I don't have CAD at home.

square to round.png

[Sean Leonard]

Glad my instincts told me not to pull the trigger on the Nordfab hood. I know they do ducting, but you'd think they know a thing or two about best practices for connecting to their systems. The DC is a clear vue Pentz EF5, 8" intake, about 1900 CFM. Thanks for the suggestions...and for the drawing Ryan. I'll draw something up in sketchup and pay a visit to a local fab shop to make something up for me.

[Malcolm McLeod]

Glad my instincts told me not to pull the trigger on the Nordfab hood. I know they do ducting, but you'd think they know a thing or two about best practices for connecting to their systems. The DC is a clear vue Pentz EF5, 8" intake, about 1900 CFM. Thanks for the suggestions...and for the drawing Ryan. I'll draw something up in sketchup and pay a visit to a local fab shop to make something up for me.

How did you deal with the 9* inlet?

[Sean Leonard]

I had Nordfab make a custom 9 degree elbow. The duct runs straight out of the intake to about 9ft and then turns level there.

[Malcolm McLeod]

I had Nordfab make a custom 9 degree elbow. The duct runs straight out of the intake to about 9ft and then turns level there.

Thanks. That is the method I'm leaning towards, but not sure yet who or even IF someone would make a 9* elbow for this transition back to horizontal.

Back-up plan is (was) a straight run to near the ceiling, then a pair of hose adapters and 4-6" length of flex hose to get horizontal. I also considered a pair of 90* ELs, but cringe at the turbulence & performance loss so close to the cyclone inlet.

[Jim Becker]

With metal duct, an adjustable elbow can easily be manipulated to any odd and small angle and then sealed. At that point in the system, any disruption of air flow will be minimal, especially with that size duct work.

[Malcolm McLeod]

With metal duct, an adjustable elbow can easily be manipulated to any odd and small angle and then sealed. At that point in the system, any disruption of air flow will be minimal, especially with that size duct work.

Unfortunately, I have not found adjustable elbows compatible with Nordfab or 'Clamp Together' ducting.

[Walter Plummer]

I made this one about 15 years ago.Dust-fitting.jpgDust-fitting-front.jpg It has worked well.

[Jim Becker]

Unfortunately, I have not found adjustable elbows compatible with Nordfab or 'Clamp Together' ducting.

You can use the adapters that slip into non-Nordfab duct to make the adjustable elbow compatible. I use them for quick connect drops in my shop while all my duct work is snaplock.