Can anyone recommend an oval skew chisel? Are they all oval on one side, flat on the other or do some have dual oval sides? TIA!
[OP]
Member
Can anyone recommend an oval skew chisel? Are they all oval on one side, flat on the other or do some have dual oval sides? TIA!
Moderator
My Sorby has ovals on both sides. I would think they'd all be like that in order to allow them to be used right or left handed.
Moderator
I have one from Sorby and another from ???, looks like a copy of the Sorby. They are oval on both sides as Prashun described.
Note that some like oval skews and some don't. They are more difficult to sharpen freehand since there is no flat to hold tight against the grinder rest.
JKJ
Contributor
No, I can't recommend an oval skew, not to a friend, anyway. Way too difficult to sharpen and use with no discernible advantage. If you're willing to pay the postage I have one or two Sorby's that I'd be happy to send you, free. In all honesty though I'd suggest you not accept my offer. The D-Way skews are very well made with beautifully machined rounded corners that make them a pleasure to use for rolling beads and such.
Member
Why do you want an oval skew? I have a Sorby, and I like it, but I do have a Tormek and it is capable of sharpening it. As others have mentioned, it is hard, if not impossible to sharpen holding it on a grinder because of the oval surface.
Moderator
In theory I can see why people would think it's hard to sharpen an oval skew in theory. In practice, I found it no harder to sharpen than my flat skew.
I do find that it catches more than my flat skew, but I suspect that's just user error.
Moderator
I say it is more difficult but not really "hard". Instead of using flat side of the skew against the rest to keep the bevel angle you have to use your fingers plus the bevel itself to guide the grind. I've sharpened my two ovals many times and it did take more care.Originally Posted by Kyle Iwamoto
Some say the reason to use an oval skew is to more easily use it on curves such as coves. This is true on other non-flat skews as well.
One of my favorite skews for small things is the 1/4" skew ground from a round rod as introduced by my good friend Frank Penta. It needs similar care when sharpening but it is quite controllable in use. After another friends showed some work he did with a 3/8" round skew I made one of those as well, from a 3/8" of 10V steel frod fromThompson Tools. I'm starting to like it a lot. But the flat-sided skews are still my favorites. I use those from Doug Thompson, radiused on the lower edge.
JKJ
[OP]
Member
I guess I really don't know why I want to try an oval skew. What I probably need is just more practice with a regular skew. I'm definitely in the catagory of a novice when it comes to turning. I've had no issues with small-scale spindle turning but in that work the skew is the most challenging!
Contributor
I have two oval skews. Hate them. Anyone have ideas on what else those worthless oblique things could be grinded into?
Moderator
When things are cleared up drive down for my skew lesson, guaranteed to get you going with the skew. The skew is the first tool I put in the hands of a beginner, even one who has never seen a lathe before. With a single straight edge it is actually the simplest cutting tool in the kit. In a short time these people were all doing planing cuts with the skew. Not one has ever had a catch while here.
JKJ
Moderator
I would love to take your class, John.
[OP]
Member
That's a deal John! Sounds like fun. It's weird, I can get a good planing cut and then it gets 'bouncy'. That's probably a bad description.
At least now I know that an oval skew isn't the magic answer.
Contributor
I have the 3/4" Sorby and love it. I find it very easy to free hand sharpen on the side of an aluminum oxide wheel. I don't like a hollow grind skew. I use a stone to keep it honed and don't grind it very often.
Moderator
Bouncy is a common problem, especially if it is caused by spiral ripples down the blank. If it is caused by the piece going out of round that's another problem. Sometimes the wood is a problem and sometimes there is flex, especially if the spindle is thin, the wood is soft, or there is too much pressure of the bevel against the wood during the cut. In that case, a lighter touch is needed and the spindle will have to be supported. I generally support thin spindles with my left hand while holding the tool in my right. A higher speed can help too. Another thing that can make flexing worse with thin spindles is too much or tool little tailstock pressure. A thing that can REALLY help is to not turn between centers but support one end of the spindle firmly with a chuck or something.
The left hand support. The wood is cupped LOOSLY in the left hand. Richard Raffan said if your hand gets hot you are using way too much pressure with the tool.
D02_thinner_IMG_5030.jpg E01_reverse_IMG_5036.jpg
BTW, I take these to demos and show students as examples. These are about 2' long, turned with a skew and without a steady rest. The lighter colored spindle goes from 1/2" down to about 1/8". It's made from shelving pine from Home Depot. The other is walnut.
pointers_B_IMG_20140311_113.jpg
If the "bounce" from the ripples, sight variations in the cut down the length of the spindle can cause the ripples to get started and in the next pass the bevel rides on the ripples and makes things worse and worse! A couple of things might help. If the spindle is not large in diameter (less than 3") I turn the lathe speed up as fast as it will go and move the skew slowly. A slow speed and a fast traverse will tend to make spiral grooves down the spindle.
Another thing that can help is use a light touch on the wood but at the same time press the tool shaft firmly against the tool rest. The light touch is learned with time but I sometimes have to think about the pressure against the tool rest.
The angle of the edge to the axis of the work can make a difference. I usually try to keep it about 45-deg. If the edge gets towards the vertical it is harder to make a smooth planing cut. As the edge gets more horizontal it can even out the cuts and avoid the lumps that can make it bouncy. However, too much in this direction can make it difficult to control since it puts too much of the edge against the wood at once.
One think I watch and correct with beginners is keeping the angle of the edge the same all the way down the spindle. Sometimes they will start on one end with the edge at 45-deg then by the time they get to the other end the edge is more vertical! That usually comes from standing still and moving the skew with the arms. If the tool is held at the right angle and handle/arm supported against that side of the body the edge angle will stay the same if you do the "woodturners dance", moving with the legs instead of the arms, knees slightly bent.
If all goes wrong and the bounce is has gotten out of hand I have on occasion resorted to a cut which is not generally recommended - make a cleanup cut with only the "short point" of the lathe. This keeps the bevel from riding up and down and cuts away any existing ripples. The surface is horrible since this cut balls up a nest of fibers at the point but it leaves the surface ready for a smooth cut.
All this is SO much easier to show than to describe! When someone is learning I watch them every second and am quick (and probably annoying) with "keep your...", "the cut is too...", "move with your legs..."
JKJ
[OP]
Member
Well I've been working with the skew for a few days now and can happily say things are much better. To get to this point I've had to do a few things!
First I watched what seemed like a thousand videos. Then I turned a new handle for the Buck Bros skew. Then I decreased the skew angle (to about 11 degrees) and changed the included angle to about 30 degrees. And I practiced and practiced.
Planing cuts were ok pretty quickly but rolling beads really served up some frustration. Initially I was using the heel to roll beads and I got a catch every single time. After adjusting the angles of the skew and switching to using the toe I'm hardly getting catches at all.
Oh, I also rounded over the short sides of the chisel which made a huge difference! When the sides were sharp they were making dings in the tool test every time I got a catch.
Now John J, this doesn't mean I wouldn't enjoy your skew class!
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