End grain wood sealer

[Dueane Hicks]

That sounds like an interesting test. Could you please describe your test a little more? For example, what was your sample size? 5, 10, 25 pieces? Were these log sections in the round or square/rectangular/round bowl-sized blanks?

Keep in mind that different blanks cut from the same tree can have widely different properties. I've seen this many times - some blanks from the same tree crack like crazy and some didn't have a single crack.

I thought a good test for log sections in the round might be: start with a log section and cut it in half. Coat one side of the cut with one type of sealer and the other side with a different sealer. Do at least ten of these. Store in identical conditions. When I did this with squared-up blanks and coated both sides of the with anchorseal both sides usually behaved the same, either both got cracks or neither did. Other non-contiguous surfaces sometimes did not.

One thing I found helps with Anchorseal. I think as it comes it is too thin and it is difficult to put a second coat over a dried first coat. I pour some into a plastic coffee can and leave the lid off for several days until the emulsion thickens some. This goes on thicker and seems more effective. However, I have not done a careful experiment following scientific methods.

JKJ

You cannot be "scientific" with wood. Maybe lignum. Most were large blanks from a large cherry tree that was 30% moisture content when I cut it into various size blanks. I cut several 3" thick by 11 inch wide by 14 inches long. All from the same log. They are not the only species that I have used titebond for sealing. I have used it on a ash log and it did not crack; the piece of that ash log that was sealed with anchor seal, cracked like crazy. This was stored in a garage with a de humidifier that was set on 55%, for one year. Keep in mind I live in the Olympics and there is alot of rain.

[terry mccammon]

Under the heading of what it is worth. A few years ago at the AAW seminar, I was Glenn Lucas's video guy for several sessions. We got to chatting about one thing and another and I asked him what he uses, given he was doing a few thousand bowls a year. He said that he used the cheapest PVA glue he could buy, diluted 50%. He liked the anchorseal product well enough, but in the quantities he used, there was always a bit spilling on the floor and it was as slick as it could be. So he used the glue as it did not dry on the floor as a slick spot. Our club made a bulk buy and I bought five gallons of original anchorseal, so set for a long time. If you do dribble a bit on your floor it is very, dangerously slick when it dries.

[John K Jordan]

... Our club made a bulk buy and I bought five gallons of original anchorseal, so set for a long time. If you do dribble a bit on your floor it is very, dangerously slick when it dries.

True, dat. I have learned over the years how to not dribble and if I do, wipe it up immediately. I have bare concrete floors. Not a problem at the sawmill!

One question I had about using glue - how does one manage keeping the brushes clean? With Anchorseal I have never cleaned a brush and use the same one for a bunch of years - in the shop I just leave the brush in the plastic coffee can with about an inch of Anchorseal in the bottom. Does using PVA glue require cleaning the brush?

[terry mccammon]

If I were going to do the cheap wood glue cut with water idea, I think I would make some up in a squeeze bottle, squirt it on and smear it around with a piece of scrap, or my finger if I know me. When I put anchorseal on something it is I am sorry to say, sort of slopped on with the really cheap harbor freight sponge brushes. These are washed out in the shop sink. I have a rough bench where I slop paint, anchorseal, whatever and don't worry about it, so long as I keep it off the floor. If I am sealing the cut ends of chunks from the band sawing of green wood, I just dip the ends in my bucket of anchorseal. In the case of roughed green bowls, they are pretty heavily anchorsealed, then wrapped in industrial plastic film.

[Pat Scott]

True, dat. I have learned over the years how to not dribble and if I do, wipe it up immediately. I have bare concrete floors. Not a problem at the sawmill!

One question I had about using glue - how does one manage keeping the brushes clean? With Anchorseal I have never cleaned a brush and use the same one for a bunch of years - in the shop I just leave the brush in the plastic coffee can with about an inch of Anchorseal in the bottom. Does using PVA glue require cleaning the brush?

I have a drop cloth on my bench that is easy to wipe up Anchorseal that dribbles, and rubber mats on the floor that I wipe off any spots that drip on them. I have concrete floors but have never had a problem with slick spots as I try and be careful not to make that big of mess! I never clean my Anchorseal brush either, I wrap it in plastic wrap after each use. I use cheap brushes and use them until the bristles fall out. The brush gets stiff even when wrapped up but when used the next time it softens up within seconds.

As for PVA glue, that's what I was saying in my other comment about the Craft Supplies Tree Saver Green Wood Sealer that is PVA based. PVA sealers are sticky, hard to apply because they are sticky and don't paint very well, plus clean up is a royal pain. Tree Saver recommends clean up with warm water. I use water from the garden hose and it works, but just the fact that I have to wash everything vs Anchorseal where I don't is enough of a hassle to me. If you don't wash your brush THOROUGHLY it will dry stiff as a board and you have to throw it away (which is another reason to use cheap dollar store brushes).

[John K Jordan]

If I were going to do the cheap wood glue cut with water idea, I think I would make some up in a squeeze bottle, squirt it on and smear it around with a piece of scrap, or my finger if I know me. ....

Hmm..., just yesterday I painted Anchorseal on the ends of 4 logs 18" or so in diameter, rough from the chainsawing. A sprayer would have been better for that size but the brush worked. I suspect it would be difficult to spread glue with a piece of scrap on chain-sawn end grain. But that might be OK for the ends of turning blanks or sides of roughed out bowls.

One problem with anchorseal is applying a second coat after the 1st is dry (applying water over wax). I'm guessing glue would probably work for for multiple coats.

JKJ