how to safely use a table saw

[Halgeir Wold]

Just one piece of advice.... NEVER get complacent with your power tools! Complacency almost cost me a couple of fingers some 25 years ago, but luck got the better of wisdom, so I came out OK...

[Darcy Warner]

Here's what I teach in table saw seminars.

1) always use a riving knife or splitter except when using grooving tools such as a dado cutter. The splitter or riving knife prevent work piece contact with the back of the blade, resulting in kickback.

2) always use a crown guard (blade guard that covers the top of the blade) for the same reason as #1, also prevents hand contact with the top of the blade. Never run the saw without a blade guard, ever. If you're running the saw without a guard you're either using the wrong machine for the task, or using the wrong guard

3) when ripping solid material use a short rip fence that ends just beyond the start of the blade.

4)Use push sticks or blocks as required, never use a push block that requires the removal of the guard or riving knife or splitter.

If you're not going to buy a saw with secondary safety systems such as Saw Stop, buy a short stroke slider, better capacity, accuracy and safety compared to a cabinet saw...........Rod.

Honestly, all those sound like nothing more than a sales pitch. According to you, all saws that are not a slider or a saw stop should be taken to the scrap yard.

Yeah, a sales pitch for sure.

[Rod Sheridan]

Honestly, all those sound like nothing more than a sales pitch. According to you, all saws that are not a slider or a saw stop should be taken to the scrap yard.

Yeah, a sales pitch for sure.

Nope, a table saw used properly is safe, the main issue I find with saw users is the lack of a guard or splitter/riving knife.

If a person doesn't want to use those primary protection systems then you need a secondary system like Sawstop or Reaxx to prevent cuts, without the primary systems neither of those secondary systems prevent kickback.

If you use primary systems you can be safe.

A slider increases the safety of primary systems by not having to have your hands near the blade.

Regards, Rod.

[Brian Tymchak]

... If we're talking about specific hacks, big fan of the Gripper here.

Yep, me too. A push stick will give down force and push force, but the gripper will also provide force against the fence, and some control of the offcut if cutting smaller parts.

[Darcy Warner]

Nope, a table saw used properly is safe, the main issue I find with saw users is the lack of a guard or splitter/riving knife.

If a person doesn't want to use those primary protection systems then you need a secondary system like Sawstop or Reaxx to prevent cuts, without the primary systems neither of those secondary systems prevent kickback.

If you use primary systems you can be safe.

A slider increases the safety of primary systems by not having to have your hands near the blade.

Regards, Rod.

Like I said, the majority of table saws should be tossed.

Impartial either way to a riving knife. The majority of over blade gaurds are cumbersome/obtrusive.

Seen a few I could probably live with if I was forced to at gun point or something.

[Tom Willoughby]

All good safety recommendations. I would add to not wear loose clothing, jewelry, and tie up long hair. As has been mentioned before, if you hear that little voice in your head that the cut is a bit ‘scary’ listen to it and find a better way to make the cut.

Tom

[Jim Becker]

What's the consensus on short fences? Don't hear much about them lately. I used one for a few years, but not smart enough to know if it was safer or not.

You may want to be more specific about what you are referring to here. Euro sliders and North American saws with the UniFence or similar permit "short fence" operation for multiple potential reasons. I generally have my fence set to end before the rear of the blade which absolutely insures there's less potential binding behind the blade if I'm using the fence to cut something rather than the slider wagon. I also pull the fence back to in front of the blade when I want to use it for a length stop for crosscutting something but not have the off-cut between a fence and the blade during the actual cut.

[Myles Moran]

I've found for any cut where I need to pick up my gripper, or the push stick (and it's a narrow cut), I'll lower the blade and run through the operations I'll do when the saw is on. That way I can plan ahead with making sure my left hand is pushing (and in control) at the right moment when I'm reaching over for the gripper/push stick. I don't do that for every cut, but anything where I can't run it with the guard on I do.

[Thomas McCurnin]

In lieu of a splitter, I was taught that a short auxiliary fence which ends just beyond the blade works well to allow the wood to spring back, and not get pinned against the fence with the wood's internal energy.

[Zachary Hoyt]

I keep the blade low, so it only comes through 1/4" or less. I find that I get a lot smoother cuts this way, especially with reducing tearout in plywood. I don't use the table saw every day, but I've put in a lot of hours on them over the last 20 years, starting at age 14, and have been lucky enough to have no injuries so far. In the shop I use the bandsaw a lot more because of what I make, mostly small pieces.
Zach

[Joel Gelman]

My 0.02 is to use a slider if at all possible (European design). That has a bigger footprint that a traditional cabinet saw, but if you are ever going to work with 4x8 sheet goods, you need a large working footprint anyway. These machines - Martin, Felder, Altendorf can cost over $50,000 new. However, I saw an Altendorf sell used on ebay for $3,000. With a long slider (preferably with pneumatic air clamps, and an inexpensive shop made "Fritz Franz" jig and parallel fence, I can't think of any cut that can't be made where you have to stand behind the blade or where your hand/fingers have to be within 2 feet of the blade. You never need to push wood past a rip fence with the rip fence only to be used at times in front of the blade to set the width of the cut to be made with the slider where the measurement is between the right side of the blade and the rip fence rather than the left side of the blade and the stop of the crosscut fence.

Just my 0.02

[Terry Therneau]

If at all possible, have a saw switch that you can hit without looking, even better if a knee can do it. It really helps with my rule 2, which that if a piece starts to bind -- stop right there and shut off the saw. (I have an older Unisaw (1947) with a 1HP motor, and I actually like the fact that if something binds badly, I am stronger than the motor and will win the pushing contest.)

[Derek Cohen]

Complacency is the biggest threat. Pay attention! I’ve used table saws for 30 years, and they remain the machine I fear the most.

I have a slider with a splitter, and still work with the blade guard whenever possible. My saw has a shorter wagon, so the rip fence is used much of the time. I recently added a Jessem hold down fixture, replacing the finger board that was used. Still, my hands can get close to the blade, but this is a time for total focus having thought through the process.

The point is that technique and accessories are helpful in preventing injury, but respect and focus are the tools that do the work. If a SawStop is triggered, you can thank the mechanism, but you need to realise that you screwed up and need to re-think your approach to sawing.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Brian Deakin]

(1) Always use an appropriate blade for the task (eg number of teeth grind and is it sharp) and confirm this by examining the blade before switching on the saw
It is when you are just making one or a few cuts there is a temptation not to change the blade and to believe I can just perform these few cuts It will be fine !
(2) Always disconnect the saw before making any adjustments and when leaving the shop
(3) I have sprayed my zero clearance insert red to remind me to keep my hands away from this area

(4) Do you have a plan of what to do if you have a catastrophic event

Eg. I have just cut across the width of the palm of my hand, the roof of the workshop and the front of my body are covered in blood ,what am I going to do

Have I spoken to a healthcare professional to gain an understanding of what I need to do

Do I have something to stem the flow of blood
Who and how do I get help ,what do I do if I am alone at home
Do I have a mobile phone in the workshop does it have the emergency number preset

Have I role played this situation can I complete all of the necessary steps and in the correct order in an appropriate amount of time

Perhaps this is a good opportunity to discuss what should there be in an emergency kit for the workshop

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Brian, yes planning for shop accidents is important.

I have a first aid kit that’s optimized for wounds, lots of bandage/blood flow staunching pads.

It’s low enough that I can reach it from the floor.

Back when I had a POTS phone, it was 12 inches above the floor, now my cell phone stays in my apron.

I also leave the house doors unlocked in case I need EMS.....Regards, Rod