In a pinch, I've used the truck exhaust to bend PVC. Just stick it on the end of the exhaust pipe & put the engine on high idle for a few minutes. Way better than trying to use a torch.
Tiny update, my emt is run. I'm only putting in the bare minimum - my general plan is to use two 20A outlets in the rear - one for lighting, the other for "tool of the moment". As I clean up and get my shop in order I'll use that time to decide on where to put outlets and how best to run them.
Wired load center, with outlet box below. I have to shorten the fiber optic conduit a bit.
First-ever EMT bend. Screwed up one stick of EMT to get this right.
This conduit leads to the exterior lighting - in code there appears to be some requirement for exterior lighting outside the detached structure's entrance. I hope I read that right, as this was a lot of work.
Though a bit overkill, this box contains two things - a Wifi switch and an exterior LED light power source. The LED lights themselves are low power and I ran the cable through a PVC conduit prior to installing the cabinet. Though this metal box may act as a faraday cage, in testing wifi was able to reach the switch.
It looks like the green bonding screw is still in place, which connects the neutral to ground. Unless this is a main service entrance from the utility, that screw needs to come out. Be sure to confirm this with your local AHJ.
Nice job on the EMT bending.
Thanks!
This load center came with a bonding jumper. The bonding jumper is off - you can see an empty screw hole to the left of the green screw. To install the bonding jumper, I would remove that green screw, and screw down an L-shaped piece of metal using that screw and a supplied screw. Not sure I should remove the existing screw? The instructions don't say to remove it, and there's no continuity between ground/neutral.
That's good. Sometimes it's a screw, sometimes a strap. As long as ground and neutral are isolated.
Final inspection on Monday!
Best of luck!
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
Approved! I have a total of two 20A outlets at the moment, and an exterior lighting circuit. In the short term I need to now finish my gas line, get that approved, and then hook up the water line somehow (yeah, I ran a water line earlier this summer too), dig out the floor drain (to extend the pipe to daylight), and do some grading. And get the exterior foam covered one way or another.
I'll suggest that if you do not have really good gas line experience, consider having that done by a licensed contractor...it's one of those things that you absolutely don't want to have a problem with for obvious reasons.
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
I don't, and am having certain parts done by a plumber, but I ran the gas poly line already (proper depth, tracer wire, bonded to ground, etc...). It's being inspected, though based on my electrical experience just now I'm a little concerned about the thoroughness of the inspection.
Placing the line is pretty basic. It's all the inside work that you have to be really careful with around gas service...from where you transition from the buried line to all the work beyond that. Maybe do the work but get it checked by a licensed plumber before inspection. And yea, inspections are not necessarily "thorough" in some cases. Since gas can go "boom" big-time, well...
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Gas line inspected and approved
I had a plumber come over and help me hook the line up to the house and do the piping into the barn. I cored the hole in the foundation, and helped with the anodeless risers.
House End (tracer wire isn't in the photo):
Barn end (tracer and grounded pipe):
Next up is the second floor subfloor. Probably won't finish that until spring