[OP]
Member
I purchased this Sawstop off Nextdoor and the previous owner attempted to route out a space for a router insert but it was left unfinished with crooked lines, etc. Unusable.
Is there a way to essentially “fill” or repair it and start from scratch? I’d like to install my own insert in a different position. It’s MDF with a phenolic top.
I’m not looking for anything super labor intensive though I’m open to all ideas!
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Toss that table in the dumpster & start over. It's not nearly strong enough to support a router lift without sagging over time. I laminated 3 layers of 18 mm Baltic birch plywood & then added plastic laminate to the top & bottom. On the under side, the router was used to create recessed to accept the bolts & nuts that secure the table to the fence rails.
I can send you a Sketchup file for the top if you like. It's for the 36" fence rails.
Last edited by Frank Pratt; 04-10-2020 at 7:15 PM.
Contributor
Trash it and buy some melamine to replace it.
Contributor
What are the length and width of the table?
[OP]
Member
I've noticed the sag even with nothing on it. It's basically storage for tools I haven't put away. I'd like to utilize that space more efficiently.Originally Posted by Frank Pratt
I'd love to see the sketch! I have the 52" but I'll extract what I can from it. Thanks!
[OP]
Member
Width is 27" Off the top of my head, I'm not entirely sure on length of the extension table. ~4ft +/-
Contributor
If it’s 27 x 42, I have an extension table with a router plate and inset to fit it. It was for my Unisaw. I’ve replaced it with a new extension to fit a different router lift. It’s in great shape and has never sagged. If you’re interested, let me know and I can give you more information.
Last edited by Bob Jones 5443; 04-11-2020 at 3:15 AM.
Contributor
By the way, what you’re talking about is referred to as an extension table. The wings are generally the cast iron tables that bolt directly to the main table.
I can't send you a message because you're not a contributor. I'm not sure how to proceed. I don't want to post my email address on a public forum. I could post images of the sketch in this thread, but you wouldn't be able to see them.
Contributor
Seems like a perfect time for him to become a contributor. At the minimum amount of $6 it's only 50 cents per month.
Contributor
$.02...trash the extension and buy or make another with black melamine. Fully cross-member the underside of the table to keep it flat. Attach support members on the underside of the lift opening to prevent sag from the weight. Under the lift, build a cabinet to contain the router and provide a 4" dust port for collection. You can also have drawers for bit and tool storage. Put adjustable feet on the cabinet so that you can snug it up under the table, which will give that heavy end of the table, good support.
I'm sure lots of folks have done the same thing I have or variations of it. Good luck. Nice saw.
Replacing that table is on my list. Certainly an embarrassment on an otherwise top notch tool. If the top had not been damaged I would simply re-frame it with some quality hardwood. If your plate is large enough to overlay the damage you could still proceed. I attached my router on the left (and have ever since I had a contractor saw). I'm now too used to the common feed direction and operator clearances; I would find it hard to change. I use the area under the right table for drawers.
SawStop (3).jpg
Last edited by glenn bradley; 04-12-2020 at 10:55 AM.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
Contributor
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This cast iron router table is from Peachtree Woodworking. Bench Dog sells a similar one. I chose the Peachtree product because I already had table inserts to fit it. Good quality. No sag!
Contributor
I'd just make a new table. The laminate on the Sawstop tables seems to come off easily, anyway. We had that problem with ours at work.
Last edited by Jason White; 04-14-2020 at 11:39 AM.
Contributor
Still there, Torrey?
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