Flush trim aggravation

[Robert Engel]

Not the first time Freud flush trim has failed me.

Anyone else? No, the router was not tipped.

Pulled out my CMT x perfectly done.

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[Clint Baxter]

Is that High Definition laminate? If so, it is extremely abrasive/hard on router bits. I typically replace out the bit after each job when working on Hi-Def laminate, sometimes it is replaced in the middle of the job. If the bit gets dull, lots of undesirable things may occur.

My 2¢

Clint

[Gustav Gabor]

I've found it rare to have most small flush trim bits actually making anything "flush". I don't think I have a Freud bit that does what your bit did though... although another brand I've used did exactly that!
Most of the time with Freud flush trim bits it's opposite of the issue you have, and there's a slight lip left on the piece.
At least that's something that can be taken care of with a file, whereas you'll most likely have to replace that piece of laminate....ouch.....

It's probably that the bearing isn't dead on center on the bit, and one flute will cut a few thou more than the other. I question the manufacturing tolerances from some of these companies.

For critical cuts, I check on a test piece to verify accuracy before the bit touches the main project.

And yes, HD laminate is quite hard on bits and saw blades, but I don't think that will cause the problem in that picture.

[Mark Bolton]

In the Gustav camp here. Freud and Amana leave a lip that requires the nightmare of filing. Oddly I got an Amana no-file bit on the last order that over cuts horrifically. Destroys the edge instantly. Frustrating doesnt even come close. Same deal, alway test on a drop.

[Mel Fulks]

Not a laminate guy. But I've had to help with it occasionally. Hey....that's better than "...but I play on one TV" The first laminates fell off the Art Deco elevator doors . The
glue has changed but a lot of the stuff still falls off. The guys I know say there is nothing wrong with the system ,but when
they are talking to a customer who is also considering "solid surface" they are more inclined to agree with laminate faults.
The laminate glue mfg. reps. you get on the phone will tell you they rate its life 5 to 7 years average ,but it can last
much longer. Laminate cut by CNC and inlaid into patterns and glued with a long lasting product will eventually catch on
and compete well with solid surface.

[Warren Lake]

Good laminate like Nevamar will last 25 years no problem. I have jobs used every day that are still fine. My own office is over 25 years old and I dont treat stuff well and its still fine. The old guys didnt use the conventional trim stuff because its mickey mouse. There are multiple ways those bearing bits fail, just one of them the contact cement they attract like a magnet to the bearing. Then the best shops were using their press as much as they could and put laminate on with white glue. These were ones that were doing miles of laminate work for banks and such. They had many laminate trimmers all set up for different functions. Its not a one function step. The bit you have shown can not do that job properly or consistently properly. You need one trim just over size so excess is cut off then you need a second set up trimmer to cut it flush and put a slight angle several degrees. One shop had one European whos whole job was to maintain and modify tools and make custom jigs and fixtures. Be nice to think your router bit company had the answers, its why I skip salesman alot of the time and go to Chemists and Techs.

[johnny means]

Wrong bit. If your edge is not perfectly square, you get that. It's better to use a fence guided router, followed by a no file bit.

[Bruce Wrenn]

I use a solid carbide trim bit. Bits are available in both straight, and bevel cuts. Run a coat of petroleum jelly along the edge where bit rubs. Keep router moving! Use deoderized mineral spirits to clean off petroleum jelly. Use a laminate file to break the edge.

[Steve Demuth]

Good laminate like Nevamar will last 25 years no problem. I have jobs used every day that are still fine. My own office is over 25 years old and I dont treat stuff well and its still fine. The old guys didnt use the conventional trim stuff because its mickey mouse. There are multiple ways those bearing bits fail, just one of them the contact cement they attract like a magnet to the bearing. Then the best shops were using their press as much as they could and put laminate on with white glue. These were ones that were doing miles of laminate work for banks and such. They had many laminate trimmers all set up for different functions. Its not a one function step. The bit you have shown can not do that job properly or consistently properly. You need one trim just over size so excess is cut off then you need a second set up trimmer to cut it flush and put a slight angle several degrees. One shop had one European whos whole job was to maintain and modify tools and make custom jigs and fixtures. Be nice to think your router bit company had the answers, its why I skip salesman alot of the time and go to Chemists and Techs.

I thought the stuff lasted forever. My folks sold their home in 2017, and the Formica on Mom's kitchen cabinets, which she had installed in 1968 or so, looked almost as good as new. It was a farm kitchen on a working farm, with plenty of cooking, canning and butchering, so it saw plenty of use - way more than the typical upscale kitchen of today.

[Warren Lake]

my moms counters are original laminate 1955. The ones with the screw on metal edges. She is waiting till they are in style again.

[Robert Engel]

Wrong bit. If your edge is not perfectly square, you get that. It's better to use a fence guided router, followed by a no file bit.

No it is the proper bit but good point about the edge is perfectly squared. I can't see how they couldn't be material cut on a table saw, padding strips flush trimmed to top.

I still can't figure out why it happened. If bit wear, there would be a lip. By the time I thought about testing the bearing it was in the bottom of the trash can.

All I know is I pulled out another bit and it worked fine.

[Dave Sabo]

I realize I'm late to the party. If the bit in the pic is the one you used; I'm not at all surprised you got poor results.

Take a close look at the shank, it is clearly old, used, rusted, tarnished , whatever. That means the cutter wasn't in tip top shape either.

Like Clint , I start with a new bit for money cuts. My take is if $20 a top is going to lose you business, best to rethink what you're selling or find better customers.

[Larry Edgerton]

Its not the bits fault, that is all I use.