Very few bandsaw setup guides mention squaring the table miter slot to the path of the blade. I think it might be helpful to discuss whether the miter slot on a bandsaw table is useful. I add on my own adjustable table with a miter slot when I need one. For example, I have been experimenting with cutting dovetail joints on the bandsaw and a miter slot works better than running a jig along the fence.
Perhaps I should state upfront my view on bandsaw drift. It is a pretty common one now: one should adjust the fence (if you are using one) to the path of a straight cut. Snodgrass misses the boat on this one, I think. For example, his Wood Whisperer tutorial on setup offers a Carter tool that makes the fence parallel to the side of the blade. That's alright for some applications but one can do much better and you may need to for some resawing. A better approach, I think, came with the blades I got from Highland. Freehand a straight cut parallel to the side of a jointed piece of wood, stop part way and clamp the wood to your table, then set your fence to the wood. Finer adjustments can be made by inspecting the bow in a resawn surface.
Bandsaws have tables that you can level. So I take that as a given. But it is difficult to square the miter slot to whatever the straight path of your blade is. You don't have a reference like on the table saw, where you can use the (much larger and stiffer) blade. So it seems to me that the miter slot is pretty much useless and it is helpful to know this. As I said, I think it is better to make a table with a miter slot to put on top and use the squared fence to square the added table.
What's your view?