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Thread: Help with Dust Collector - New Shop

  1. #16
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    Lancaster, Ohio
    Posts
    1,366
    want to add I added a Rigid shop vac with mini cyclone/5 gallon bucket piped with 2" pvc to under workbench(4 outlets) above workbench(1 outlet) above table saw (1 outlet most of the time to table saw guard) drill press(1 outlet) corner of shop( 1 outlet). this gets connected with hoses to sanders, power plane, routers, vacuuming the floor, etc. really cuts down on amount of fine dust in air. Had this in operation about a year. Need to connect it to band saw and panel saw in other room. Also need to set up for automatic turn on/off

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Suffolk, Va.
    Posts
    208
    I have a Jet JCDC-3 3 hp cyclone. I am very pleased with it. It is currently on sale for $1,699 normal price is $1,999.

    https://www.googleadservices.com/pag...XTuQF4EhNjcd4M
    Michael Dilday
    Suffolk, Va.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Atlanta
    Posts
    1,600
    I think you should face the reality that $1500 isn't likely to cut it for for dust collection in a 900 sq. ft. if you want to enclose it and have any kind of duct network.

    A lot of what I'm about to say might sound preachy and isn't the typical ra ra can do anything attitude that usually comes along with the creative nature of most woodworkers. And, for sure, just about anything has a solution with stuff on hand. But.......

    You've bought a high end saw and stated you don't like buying stuff twice. You're headed for that scenario in the express lane with that budget unless you're willing to go mobile or find an exceptional deal on a used cyclone. Even then, it's a tough road. That money just won't buy adequate H.P. to spin a large enough impeller to produce enough CFM.

    - Forget venting outside if you have HVAC in the shop and value comfort. No make-up air system with ERV capability that you'd spring for will keep pace with a cyclone. So, you'll pump all your conditioned air outside in a minute or two when it's running. If you have a tight building, make up air won't enter fast enough and will create a vacuum. Which could be dangerous if you have something like a gas water heater or open vent furnace in there. If you have neighbors close by, you need to consider the noise they'll hear from an outside vent. The filters are like a muffler. Prob. doesn't matter for you, but some mountain boys don't cotton to the silence being disturbed.

    - Don't go for a smaller permanent dust collector. That's sketchy advice any way you slice it except for smaller vs. no collector at all. Practically guaranteed to be false economy at some point down the road. You want the most CFM's at the highest static pressure you can find at your budget. There's no substitute for horsepower or thrust as they say. Be careful when comparing, pay attention to the static pressure # as much as the CFM one.

    - You'll not gain any practical savings in either floor space or purchase price by following the advice to drop the filter array and vent outside. You're gonna pay for the filter upfront regardless, and the long term expense of replacing them is almost nothing if your cyclone is doing its job. If you get a Laguna or other short cone unit, you will be replacing the the filter because the design is sub-par to start with. The space they (don't) take up isn't going to afford you the ability to add another tool in its place when it's gone.

    - Don't buy a short unit. Period. You don't have headroom restrictions for them to even be considered.

    - Buy or make a hanging air filter (or two) that will scrub the air of the inevitable dust that will remain in the air no matter what dust collector you buy. If you make, be sure to have a timer built in (remote actuated) - or - at the wall switch location.

    - If you enclose a unit, you need to be sure the motor will be able to adequately cool itself- otherwise, poof.

    - Before you go much farther, take some time to think about how you'll layout you shop. Where machines go will dictate a ducting layout if you build in. And that layout is going to be what you need to base the airflow of any collector you buy. This isn't as important if you will roll around a collector to the machine.


    I think you really need to double your budget if you want to put a cyclone in a closet with ducting in a 30x30 shop.
    Last edited by Dave Sabo; 04-04-2020 at 4:29 PM.

  4. #19
    How about buying the DC I need now, but keep it mobile until I can budget for the ducting, etc? Does this work? Ideas on an adequate DC?

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Cambridge Vermont
    Posts
    2,289
    It's kind of a hobby of mine to watch auctions to see if I can guess what something will sell for. I have bought a few things when the price seams too cheap to pass on. The two things I see are older PM66 and Unisaws and dust collectors. Lots and lots of dust collectors. Everywhere from the smallest 1hp to multistory outside units. If you are willing to explore the used market this could be an option for you. The cyclone style ones are still a little new so they aren't as plentiful but still see them quite often. It seams like a ton of them are the 3hp twin bag style.

    Also they show up pretty often on Craig's list. There was a 2 1/2 hp Oneida cyclone with 60 feet of metal ducting in Athens (thought I read you weer in Georgia) last month for $1500. To me a dust collector is one of the safer things you can buy used. If the motor comes on without squealing or making any odd noises it should be good.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Arlington, TX
    Posts
    452
    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Mills View Post
    Bob, if you vent outside, you don't need to filter the volume of air that the DC is pushing, so the DC will run more efficiently. Looked at the other way, the more efficient your filtering is, the harder your DC motor has to work.

    Snip...
    WRT efficiency vs airflow/backpressure, more efficient filters do not necessarily increase backpressure (and blower motor work). The filter area can be increased to reduce backpressure, compensating for the filter efficiency pressure drop. So a filter with any desired efficiency can be sized to provide the desired flow rate with a given blower.

    -- Andy Jones - Arlington TX

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Suffolk, Va.
    Posts
    208
    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Hardin View Post
    How about buying the DC I need now, but keep it mobile until I can budget for the ducting, etc? Does this work? Ideas on an adequate DC?
    The Jet JCDC-3 is on wheels but it is capable and can either be semi-portable or stationary ducted. It comes with a 8" or 3-4" with the included adapter. It also comes with a wireless remote control that I have attached to my apron. Like I said before it is on sale now for $1,699 normally $1,999.
    Michael Dilday
    Suffolk, Va.

  8. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Sabo View Post
    I think you should face the reality that $1500 isn't likely to cut it for for dust collection in a 900 sq. ft. if you want to enclose it and have any kind of duct network.

    A lot of what I'm about to say might sound preachy and isn't the typical ra ra can do anything attitude that usually comes along with the creative nature of most woodworkers. And, for sure, just about anything has a solution with stuff on hand. But.......

    You've bought a high end saw and stated you don't like buying stuff twice. You're headed for that scenario in the express lane with that budget unless you're willing to go mobile or find an exceptional deal on a used cyclone. Even then, it's a tough road. That money just won't buy adequate H.P. to spin a large enough impeller to produce enough CFM.

    - Forget venting outside if you have HVAC in the shop and value comfort. No make-up air system with ERV capability that you'd spring for will keep pace with a cyclone. So, you'll pump all your conditioned air outside in a minute or two when it's running. If you have a tight building, make up air won't enter fast enough and will create a vacuum. Which could be dangerous if you have something like a gas water heater or open vent furnace in there. If you have neighbors close by, you need to consider the noise they'll hear from an outside vent. The filters are like a muffler. Prob. doesn't matter for you, but some mountain boys don't cotton to the silence being disturbed.

    - Don't go for a smaller permanent dust collector. That's sketchy advice any way you slice it except for smaller vs. no collector at all. Practically guaranteed to be false economy at some point down the road. You want the most CFM's at the highest static pressure you can find at your budget. There's no substitute for horsepower or thrust as they say. Be careful when comparing, pay attention to the static pressure # as much as the CFM one.

    - You'll not gain any practical savings in either floor space or purchase price by following the advice to drop the filter array and vent outside. You're gonna pay for the filter upfront regardless, and the long term expense of replacing them is almost nothing if your cyclone is doing its job. If you get a Laguna or other short cone unit, you will be replacing the the filter because the design is sub-par to start with. The space they (don't) take up isn't going to afford you the ability to add another tool in its place when it's gone.

    - Don't buy a short unit. Period. You don't have headroom restrictions for them to even be considered.

    - Buy or make a hanging air filter (or two) that will scrub the air of the inevitable dust that will remain in the air no matter what dust collector you buy. If you make, be sure to have a timer built in (remote actuated) - or - at the wall switch location.

    - If you enclose a unit, you need to be sure the motor will be able to adequately cool itself- otherwise, poof.

    - Before you go much farther, take some time to think about how you'll layout you shop. Where machines go will dictate a ducting layout if you build in. And that layout is going to be what you need to base the airflow of any collector you buy. This isn't as important if you will roll around a collector to the machine.


    I think you really need to double your budget if you want to put a cyclone in a closet with ducting in a 30x30 shop.
    is there a way to make the Clearvue cv1800 moveable on wheels?

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Black Oak Ark.
    Posts
    254
    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Hardin View Post
    is there a way to make the Clearvue cv1800 moveable on wheels?
    I don't think so . It's MDF , and should not be moved .

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Exeter, CA
    Posts
    693
    I have a 1.75hp cyclone with very good filtration within a small (250 sq ft) shop. No outside exhaust. I spent probably 2-3x as much as I thought I would, especially on duct work, it really adds up. Lots of nickle and dime stuff (small parts). and it took me 2-3x times as long as I expected it would. do your homework. Randy

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Manistique, Michigan
    Posts
    1,367
    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Hardin View Post
    is there a way to make the Clearvue cv1800 moveable on wheels?
    Clearvue has a forum that where one person shows the way they put their Clearvue on wheels. There is a section on that forum that people post pictures of their Dust collector arrangements.

    I have a Clearvue and really like it. I am in the process of putting a bin full sensing system on it.

    My system has filers because I live in the UP of Michigan. It’s too cold most of the year to vent outside.
    Last edited by Rich Aldrich; 04-04-2020 at 11:20 PM.

  12. #27
    I've had several dust collectors in my garage shop. Cyclones are the best performing and Oneida would be my choice. Yes, they cost a bit more, however in the long run, I think you'll agree that if you're going to stretch the budget anywhere, the DC is the place to do it. There are now several models to choose from, so go the biggest you can afford. On paper, you may be able to find a DC that shows higher numbers, but you will not be disappointed in Oneida's performance. Put that together with build quality, materials quality, USA Made and customer support and you simply can't go wrong. Good luck and buy once.

  13. #28
    Portability seems to be common up to about 2hp but uncommon above that. One of my three drops for my HF 2hp is a long flexible hose, 4 inch, that I use for my lunchbox planner, jointer, and a floor sweep. It works fine for these tools. There is more loss with flexible hose but I still get enough airflow to clear most of the chips. Without the 20 feet or so of 5 inch metal snap lock it would undoubtedly move a bit more air. Changing from one drop to three drops noticably affected airflow, presumbly due to leakage at gates and probably in the piping too (although I used dope and tape on the joints).

    I didn't mention it but I also use a Rigid shop vac pulling through a dust deputy and filtering the air with a quasi HEPA filter. It also has an auto on when the tool is started. I use this on my track saw, sanders, domino, and sometimes to vacuum off workpieces (I like the 4 inch off the DC better but I don't currently have a brush attachment for it).

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Hayes, Virginia
    Posts
    14,774
    Quote Originally Posted by glenn bradley View Post
    I'll butt in and Keith can correct me if I'm not talking about what he is talking about . . . You need to supply make-up air for any air that is being pushed out of the shop. A 2HP blower can move 1500 CFM. If you put a separator in the path like a 2HP cyclone you may only get 1000 CFM. The point being that without the things in the path that reduce your throughput; cyclone, filter, mufflers, you get a lot more bang from a smaller blower.

    Bob, Glenn is right. When you don't have filters or bags the performance is way above the manufacturers specifications. You waste money purchasing performance you don't need and you sacrifice makeup air. The suction at the end of the hose is more like a vacuum than dust collections performance. If you remove the intake hose from a DC vac and test the vacuum at the inlet (not with your hand ) you can feel the difference from what you normally experience with the filters or bags installed.

  15. #30
    I don't see your location, but here in Kansas, I vent outside on all but the coldest and hottest days of the year. My 3hp cyclone works very well for me, but when I set it up, the piping cost more than the cyclone. Should help if you could find the S&D 6" plastic pipe. I used spiral pipe, as no one stocks the 6" plastic in my area. The spiral is great for re-configuring the system. Just have to buy a few couplings to combine lengths of spiral pipe.

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