Slicks: TH Witherby versus Peck, Stow, and Wilco

[Patrick Kane]

As the title suggests, im trying to determine which slick to keep and which to sell. Both need handles made, shouldnt be an issue. Both seem to be in about the same condition. Maybe the Witherby eeks out a win there. The PSW has a 1/16" chip in the middle of the blade that would need to be honed out. Other than that, they are both enormous slicks. 3-15/16" wide and 16-17" long. The PSW has an additional 1"+/- of length on the Witherby. From what i can read from simple searches, they are widely considered to be good chisel makers. I know comparisons are subjective, but anyone familiar enough with both makers to offer advice on which to keep? Im leaning towards the TH Witherby, but if they are about the same working quality, but one is worth more than the other, then i am selling the more valuable/collectible slick. I purchased them awhile ago with the intention of starting a small 10x12 timber frame shed. The proceeds from the sale will go towards the purchase of a 1.5" Barr.

[Jim Koepke]

As the title suggests, im trying to determine which slick to keep and which to sell. Both need handles made, shouldnt be an issue. Both seem to be in about the same condition. Maybe the Witherby eeks out a win there. The PSW has a 1/16" chip in the middle of the blade that would need to be honed out. Other than that, they are both enormous slicks. 3-15/16" wide and 16-17" long. The PSW has an additional 1"+/- of length on the Witherby. From what i can read from simple searches, they are widely considered to be good chisel makers. I know comparisons are subjective, but anyone familiar enough with both makers to offer advice on which to keep? Im leaning towards the TH Witherby, but if they are about the same working quality, but one is worth more than the other, then i am selling the more valuable/collectible slick. I purchased them awhile ago with the intention of starting a small 10x12 timber frame shed. The proceeds from the sale will go towards the purchase of a 1.5" Barr.

Patrick, Do you really hope for help without some pictures of this pair?

If you do sell the PSW slick, you will likely do better if you grind out the chip.

My experience with various chisels is some feel right doing their work and some feel off. The best way for you to decide is to see if the feel the same in use or if one feels better.

Many of my tools sold in the past were chosen for being more valuable to buyers than their shop duplicates.

Though my personal choice would be to keep the Witherby. Many of my favorite chisels are Witherby's so why not keep them together.

jtk

[Scott Winners]

I only have one slick, an Underhill. I have mine sharp enough to make me nervous every time I pick it up, so sharp enough for now.

If my Underhill was a board it would have both bow and cup to it, but no crook. I think bow is to boards as belly is to slick blades. Do you like a slick with a lot of belly? I am not sure what word is correct in place of cup for slick blades. My slick has a little bit of cup to it. Since I only have the one slick I have learned how to work around it, work with it; and I have grown to like having a little bit of it.

If I were in your situation I would get both of them sharp to at least 600 grit. Don't worry about the chip out of the edge of the one, just both at 600 grit, or whatever grit is the next finest stone from where you are starting. And then use them both, take them for test drives. I got an ungraded 8x8 a bit under 8 feet for 50% off what it would have cost had it been 2 inches longer and made the grade for #2 structural. I have been cutting joints in it. All you really need is two tenon faces big enough that you can't do it all at once, one for each slick. Cheap softwood that can be cut fairly easily with a 600 grit edge is fine.

Don't be stupid, a dull tool is a dangerous tool, but there is no point in going to infinity grit for a brief test drive on a piece of wood that is going in the woodstove later tonight.

Ignore the handles, mostly. You can make a new handle out of a shovel handle with a draw knife for about 15 bucks. If you love one of the handles you have that is good to know, but it is the metal parts you want to choose between. Does one or the other have too much cup or bow? Does one have too much cup and the other not enough bow? Handle angle might be important actually. If you have a lathe, or a friend with a lathe, coming up with a straight handle that has your personal custom length and profile is easy-peasy, but if the angle of the handle relative to the blade isn't comfortable making a bowed handle would not be easy-peasy.

What I am finding is having bow and cup lets me work closer in to knots and irregular grain.

[Jim Koepke]

You can make a new handle out of a shovel handle with a draw knife for about 15 bucks.

Even spindles recovered from a discarded chair can be used:

Chair Spindle Socket Chisel Handles.jpg

The small end was used on a J Swan 3/8" chisel.

jtk

[Mel Fulks]

Agree with keeping the Witherby, there is some fascination with them over who "really" made them,etc. I doubt that
either is superior in use.

[Jim Matthews]

I did a green Pine "Timber frame" build two Summers back. It involved the first extensive use of slicks for me. I have a Witherby, unknown and Barr all around two inches wide.

The Barr is the only one tempered evenly and performs best, longest.

Without testing them for hardness, grind a new bevel.

The one that releases the honed wire edge would be my choice.

[Patrick Kane]

Sorry, couldnt attach the photos to the thread from my phone. Never had much success doing that. Anywho, i was leaning towards the Witherby for a few reasons. It has considerably less oxidation, and i like the intrigue involved with the maker. However, the PS&W is very clearly laminated steel, and the Witherby is harder for me to discern if its laminated or not. Here are some photos. The Witherby is on the left and the Wilco is on the right. I need to turn some handles for them tomorrow. Any tricks to getting the taper just right for the socket?

[Patrick Kane]

Forgot the closeups

[Jim Koepke]

From the first pictures it looks like the PSW may have a little crank to the neck for the socket. That is often preferred on a slick to help prevent the user from brushing their knuckles against the work.

jtk

[Tom M King]

I've been looking for one, sort of, for decades now, and never came across one that I really wanted. In what timber framing I've done so far, I've gotten used to using a full sized rabbet plane to the point that I'm not sure I would really even use a slick.

edited to add: just saw classifieds

[Jim Koepke]

[edited]
I need to turn some handles for them tomorrow. Any tricks to getting the taper just right for the socket?

Here is an old post on that > https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?112339

Once the taper on the handle is fairly close it can be set in the socket and turned. This will leave any oxidation inside the socket to mark the taper. My finest rasp or a fine file is used to lightly remove any of the dark areas on the taper. Eventually the taper will get to a point where it will not wiggle, rock or feel loose in the socket. It will also likely either show marking from inside all around or just setting it in the socket will hold it tight enough to not rotate. That is when it is time to drive the handle home with a mallet blow or two.

jtk

[Patrick Kane]

Whelp, let me know if you want one now, Tom. I’ll more than likely be selling the PSW slick along with the ones in the classified section. You might be right, I might find that I don’t even use a slick much. My Barr 1.5” timber chisel is on the way and that might prove to be enough for most joinery. Like you say, a handplane might be better for tuning tenon cheeks.

It is something I’ve always wanted. That is how I ended up with a handful of them! I mean, who doesn’t want a massive chisel? I use my Japanese paring chisel a lot more than I thought I would. One of my favorite chisels, actually. I assume a slick is similar in concept.