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Thread: Warped Box Top

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    SE Michigan
    Posts
    3,225
    Another way to go, if you decide to get into veneer, is to inset a veneered top (1/2” ply or mdf) into a rabbit. The rabbit is made prior to assembly and I make it so the rabbit is a bit deeper than the thickness of the veneered top (this leave the side a bit proud to plane flush after glue up. You can then hide the “seam” with stringing or banding inlay.


    884841C2-E1DD-49A1-B8D9-FA7EB087CF58.jpg A5DB509C-A7A9-4FA5-8EA1-C9D5629C8EBF.jpg

    I’ll just note that veneering (especially small box tops) doesn’t take much. I use Titebond cold press glue, a couple of 3/4” cauls, a couple sheets of wax paper, and some clamps. Once you do it, you’ll wonder why you didn’t try it sooner...and it allows you to use some pretty nice wood without the price of full size stock.
    Last edited by Phil Mueller; 04-04-2020 at 7:22 AM.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Beautiful Lexington, SC
    Posts
    776
    Hi Phil, that veneer is really nice looking! I think I should learn how to use a hand plane first lol. Thanks for the ideas, I appreciate the help.
    Tim
    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Mueller View Post
    Another way to go, if you decide to get into veneer, is to inset a veneered top (1/2” ply or mdf) into a rabbit. The rabbit is made prior to assembly and I make it so the rabbit is a bit deeper than the thickness of the veneered top (this leave the side a bit proud to plane flush after glue up. You can then hide the “seam” with stringing or banding inlay.


    884841C2-E1DD-49A1-B8D9-FA7EB087CF58.jpg A5DB509C-A7A9-4FA5-8EA1-C9D5629C8EBF.jpg

    I’ll just note that veneering (especially small box tops) doesn’t take much. I use Titebond cold press glue, a couple of 3/4” cauls, a couple sheets of wax paper, and some clamps. Once you do it, you’ll wonder why you didn’t try it sooner...and it allows you to use some pretty nice wood without the price of full size stock.

  3. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Mueller View Post
    Another way to go, if you decide to get into veneer, is to inset a veneered top (1/2” ply or mdf) into a rabbit. The rabbit is made prior to assembly and I make it so the rabbit is a bit deeper than the thickness of the veneered top (this leave the side a bit proud to plane flush after glue up. You can then hide the “seam” with stringing or banding inlay.

    I’ll just note that veneering (especially small box tops) doesn’t take much. I use Titebond cold press glue, a couple of 3/4” cauls, a couple sheets of wax paper, and some clamps. Once you do it, you’ll wonder why you didn’t try it sooner...and it allows you to use some pretty nice wood without the price of full size stock.
    That's a good approach, Phil, I'll try that. Thanks.

    Mike
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    2,769
    Don't connect the top to the sides at all. If the top is just one piece it will stay flatter. Allow room for it to expand and contract by making it overhang the sides.

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