I have a Phenolic tablesaw insert that I would like to fill in the saw slot and then recut. Anyone know what to use for this?
I have a Phenolic tablesaw insert that I would like to fill in the saw slot and then recut. Anyone know what to use for this?
I had made myself few, to get double duty from them I just turn them around. For me that put the kerf about 1" away from the edge. But I have an older PM 66 so it may be different from yours. But to answer your question instead of me drifting off, HD and Lowes both sell JB weld. HF sells different brand but its still a 2 part epoxy which will work.
Never done that but I'd use epoxy. Tape the top side making sure of a good seal around the edges of the cut. Flip on a hard surface and fill from the bottom. Let cure a couple days. Use a block plane or a sander to clean any seepage on the top side.
Brian
"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger or more complicated...it takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." - E.F. Schumacher
You could fill the cut with PC-7. Let it set up for at least 24 hours and then recut the slot with your table saw.
Lee Schierer
USNA '71
Go Navy!
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I just make new ones from Oak. I traced my stock insert on some scrap that had been planed to the right thickness and cut the replacement to shape. I added a thumb hole and a small pin or a brass screw to one end to adjust fit. It takes all of 20 minutes start to finish. Quick and cheap.
Here are a couple zero clearance inserts I made that are dedicated to Dado widths.
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Sharp solves all manner of problems.
Not sure what glues will stick to phenolic but for my engineered hardwood inserts and my crosscut sleds I just glue in a scrap of whatever wood I find in my scrap bin and then recut. If epoxy sticks to phenolic rather than fill the whole gap with epoxy, just glue in a piece of scrap wood using the epoxy.
FWW had a nice article on making zero clearance table saw inserts. The author used the threaded holes that contain the leveling screws in the original insert, to fasten it to a piece of 1/2" plywood, etc., then uses a flush trimming bit to route the exact outside shape.
Had other tricks for starting the throat cut, by using a dado outer blade, since it can be lowered completely beneath the 1/2" blank, then raised up while running to start the cut (not cutting through) to clear a fully retracted 10" blade to finish the cut. This avoids having to lower the uncut insert onto a spinning blade to start the zero clearance cut.
He also clamped a block on the rip fence to hold the insert down while raising the running blade into it, taking care to ensure the rip fence itself was clear of the path of the rising blade.
-- Andy - Arlington TX
Whatever you try, make sure it can handle the heat of rubbing the sides of the blade. Fill it with some kind of resin and the blade could weld itself to the insert. I would do an oversize wood inlay in it. Cut the groove with a dovetail bit, and the inlay could be slid in and make several of them once you get the set up made. The inlay would only have to be 1/8 to 1/4" thick.
I like Rob Luter made mine out of oak wood about 15 years ago. It does what it was designed to do. IIRC, I did plane it to thickness on my planer. I put a splitter on mine.
Can you take existing insert, reverse it and cut a second slot in it? Personally, I use 1/2" MDF. HD sells it in 2' X 4' pieces, which will make a lifetime supply
Well maybe I'll gorilla glue in a piece of wood to plug the slot and then use it for my 45 degree insert that way it will cut a slot in a different location in the insert. I'll just make a new one for the straight cut. Thanks
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