I own a general 480-1 jointer, now that their out of business, can someone tell me where I can get bearings for the cutter head, and how would I determine the correct part number for said bearings.
I own a general 480-1 jointer, now that their out of business, can someone tell me where I can get bearings for the cutter head, and how would I determine the correct part number for said bearings.
Remove the existing bearings and take them to a bearing distributor. Most manufacturers used off the shelf bearings in their products. Once they are out you may find markings on the bearings so you can just order them.
Another idea: I recently found the correct bearings for a bandsaw at an auto parts store. Take the bearing with you for comparison.
"All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing."
“If you want to know what a man's like, take a good look at how he treats his inferiors, not his equals.”
Remove the bearing (you’ll need a bearing puller) and read the numbers on it. It’ll probably be something like 6903. That’s the size, and any additional letters like Z, RS, etc mean the seal type. Get rubber seals. Order new ones online or even local Fastenal or auto parts store as Fred said.
Make sure you get standard clearance as those will be small diameter bearings. Dave
A quick aside......
Dave, Matt,
I know both of you rebuild a lot. Can you please teach me? Why standard clearance? Why rubber seals compared to other types?
Thank you!
Fred
"All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing."
“If you want to know what a man's like, take a good look at how he treats his inferiors, not his equals.”
Smaller bearings have higher speed limits . Rubber seals are contact seals so they reduce the rpm limit. Irrelevant with small bearings. Seals keep the oil inside the bearing and eliminate the need to replace the grease thrown from the bearing. Shielded bearings have a non contact shield so they can run faster but lose small amounts of grease so the machine needs to be designed to either allow for that or replace it. Open bearings allow for higher precision bearings or the use of oil which allows large high load bearings to run at great rpms. Clearance is the distance between the balls and the inner and outer races. Bearings that run hot or at the upper rpm limits, need additional room for the bearing to expand. Since bearings are usually held on both the outer and inner, each expand towards the balls. Bearings used in a spindle application should have as tight of clearance as possible so run out is reduced. Since most of us don't run machines 24-7, the bearings don't heat up that much and new machines run smaller cheaper bearings than old industrial equipment ( why I like the old stuff ), hence no need for higher clearance. CN or nothing in the description is normal, C3 is wider, C2 is tighter. you will find C2 on higher precision bearings with machined cages that can run tight with no harm. These bearings are sometimes called planer bearings. Dave
Thank you!
"All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing."
“If you want to know what a man's like, take a good look at how he treats his inferiors, not his equals.”
Yes, thank you. Good information.
Mike
Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.
I recommend standard electric motor grade bearings with rubber seals. Shielded is old technology and a poor choice with wood dust to draw out the grease. I have had good luck with VXB bearings on ebay. Once you have the four digit number search by price. Jointer bearings are low load ,medium rpm and do not need anything special for accuracy. Shaper and router bearings are the only ones to think about, in a wood shop, before purchase due to rpm and side loading.
Bill D
PS: a Horrible Fright digital caliper is plenty accurate to measure a bearing with. All measurements will be metric if the tool was made after 1950 or so. All measurements will be whole number millimeters for any but the smallest router bit bearings.
http://www.ntnamericas.com/en/produc...sked-questions
For a small upcharge, SKF Explorer are a little better quality. SKF electric motor grade tend to be C3. If an SKF has JEM in the name, it is C3 clearance. Dave
Hello
I original posted the question. I have to thank you folks for the responses. It is not only very helpful, but much appreciated.
Mike
When I replace a bearing I buy the best I can possibly buy. It's usually Timken. The price difference is so little while the upside could mean years of extra service. It's just personal opinion but it seams like the cheap bearings work just fine but they are more likely to fail down the road. It might cost you an extra $5 or $10.
David's advice is great, but when replacing my bandsaw bearings I didn't have it. I took my bearings to a bearing distributer and got great service. Sound advice and everything in stock so no compromises. Only thing I should have done is take pictures of the application.