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Thread: Preferred bandsaw blade

  1. #1
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    Preferred bandsaw blade

    Using Rikon 10-326 I need to cut curves in an 8 inch thick stack of poplar and pine glued up with Titebond 2. I have 3 blades to select from: Lenox Flex back 3/4 inch .032 thickness 2 teeth per inch hook, wood slicer 1/2 inch .022 thickness 3-4tpi variable pitch, or Lenox Flex back 1/4 inch .025 thickness 6 tpi. At first thought I would use the wood slicer, but when slicing a curve recently with an older wood slicer blade I noted it was very hard to follow the curve, perhaps because of the small set. Anybody use the wood slicer resawing curves? Thoughts? If I go real slow, will the 1/4 inch blade work?stack with weight.jpgclamped stack.jpgcurve template.jpg

  2. #2
    I think the 6tpi will kill you on a thick stack like that. It won't clear the sawdust well enough unless you cut very slowly, and if the kerf clogs up the blade will deflect in the cut. Since the curves seem very gentle, I'd try the 3/4 lenox 2 tpi blade first.
    --Certainty is the refuge of a small mind--

  3. #3
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    How tight are the curves? You can't cut tight curves with a wide blade.

  4. #4
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    A lot of people used to recommend Timberwolf blades. Have they fallen out of favor?

  5. #5
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    Make a stack out of scraps and experiment on the stack. It will not take long to figure out.

  6. #6
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    Thanks Paul. Lowell, that is good advice.

  7. #7
    90% of my bandsaw work can be done with a 3/8" 3tpi band. Not sure who makes the band stock, most blades are 18 to 20 feet long. I call my saw sharpener, tell him what I want and the lengths, they cut, weld and grind them before I get there.

    I believe I have seen Moorse on some of the bulk rolls.
    Average 20 bucks a band, never broke one of their welds.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Darcy Warner View Post
    90% of my bandsaw work can be done with a 3/8" 3tpi band. Not sure who makes the band stock, most blades are 18 to 20 feet long. I call my saw sharpener, tell him what I want and the lengths, they cut, weld and grind them before I get there.

    I believe I have seen Moorse on some of the bulk rolls.
    Average 20 bucks a band, never broke one of their welds.
    Thanks for the advice Darcy. A 3/8" tpi would be versatile.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jamie Buxton View Post
    How tight are the curves? You can't cut tight curves with a wide blade.
    The curves are not very tight Jamie. In the last picture they are outlined in red

  10. #10
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    Same as Darcy; nearly everything I cut on my 14" Delta with riser is with a 3/8" x 3 or 4 tpi blade. I have sliced 10" wide veneer with the 3 tpi version so if it can do that it can cut those 8" curves. I'm using Starrett stock at the moment. Whatever you use you need a blade with some set so that it can follow the curves.

    John

  11. #11
    1/2" Timberwolf that was either 3 or 4 TPI was my go-to blade during the Italian days. Could sorta' rip with it, could sorta' scroll with it, easy to tension properly, etc.

    Erik
    Felder USA Territory Representative: Central & South Texas

  12. #12
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    Thanks John and Erik!

  13. #13
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    Iím in agreement with Erik, most of the time I use a 1/2 X 3 tip blade on the saw.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by lowell holmes View Post
    Make a stack out of scraps and experiment on the stack. It will not take long to figure out.
    Lowell, I took your advice and made a stack out of scraps to practice on. I put on my 3/4 lenox 2tpi and ripped away - it followed the curve nicely so I stopped had way through and went to the real project. Success! Thanks everyone for your advice!

    resaw 1.jpgresaw 2.jpg

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