Hacksaw repair, worth it?

[Chris Schoenthal]

I have a Sandvik 225 hacksaw that has been a great saw for many years.
When I pulled it out the other day, the blade wouldn't stay on when tightening.
Seems that the blade holding pin has worn down over the years.
It's a quality Swedish made saw and I like the features.
It appears that I would have to drill out the pin and find something to replace it with.
I really like the saw and it's quality, but is it worth the effort and is that the best way to fix it?

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[Frank Pratt]

For all the trouble to repair the old one, I'd just spend a few bucks & get a new one. There are some very good hacksaw frames available.

[Jim Matthews]

I'll bet that pin is just pressed in.

A machine shop could fit a new pin, tout de suite.

[michael langman]

Chris, trying to drill the pin may not work because it should be harder then the hacksaw blade. Put a file to the top surface of the pin and see if it cuts the pin.
If it does you will have to make the top surface of the pin perpindicular to the hole in the frame by filing it.
You will have to center punch the pin before drilling so the drill does not walk.
If worse comes to worse you could drill a small hole through from the other side trying to line up as best possible with the pin and then using a pin punch to drive the pin out.

[Don Coffman]

Replace "IF" you find one of equal or better quality, otherwise I would repair it. If you replace, save the old one to repair at a later date since you know it is a well made tool.

[Lee Schierer]

I would replace it with a Reed Mfg HK1228 high tension hack saw which is made right near me in Erie, Pa. I have had one for over 15 years and it is still going strong. No affiliation, but they make good tools.

[Jim Koepke]

Chris, The first step is to evaluate what can be done to repair this saw. Does it look like the holding pin is straight through for both the vertical holding and the angled holding of the blades? You may be able to press or punch the pin out. You may be able to press from the angled side enough to use it for the compromised side without replacing the pin.

The pin is likely a metric size.

If it is a single pin and you want to press it through just a touch to extend the saws life, it shouldn't be too difficult. A metal vise would be your best tool for this. A drill press vise might be easier to use.

A 1/4-20 nut should work to provide clearance, used like an anvil against one vise jaw while using the other jaw to press the pin through to extend the saw's life.

If this isn't how the pin is configured, you may be able to use a vise to grip the pin to pull it out.

Otherwise, one of the Stanley hacksaws looks kind of funny but it is a great saw:

Stanley Hacksaw.png

The shape at the toe of the saw allows it to be used in tight places.

Of my two hacksaws, this is the one that is always used.

jtk

[lowell holmes]

I would try to fix it, but get a new hacksaw as well. You can always use an extra hacksaw.

[Mike Henderson]

Here's one I like.

Mike

[Oskar Sedell]

in my opinion, it is always worth trying a repair (if the materials in the saw allows for it). One less newly produced saw needed, and one rescued from the trash and put back to use.

[Chris Schoenthal]

For all the trouble to repair the old one, I'd just spend a few bucks & get a new one. There are some very good hacksaw frames available.

Thanks Frank, From what I can gather, these aren't available anymore, but last sold for around $50 (more than a few bucks to me anyway).
Also, I seem to have more time on my hands these days than money and not an urgent need to replace.

[Chris Schoenthal]

I would replace it with a Reed Mfg HK1228 high tension hack saw which is made right near me in Erie, Pa. I have had one for over 15 years and it is still going strong. No affiliation, but they make good tools.

Thanks for the tip Lee. I looked at the Reed saw and it seems to be the same quality as mine. Definitely an option.

[Chris Schoenthal]

Chris, The first step is to evaluate what can be done to repair this saw. Does it look like the holding pin is straight through for both the vertical holding and the angled holding of the blades? You may be able to press or punch the pin out. You may be able to press from the angled side enough to use it for the compromised side without replacing the pin.

If this isn't how the pin is configured, you may be able to use a vise to grip the pin to pull it out.jtk

Jim, the pin embedded into the aluminum and the other 45° pin isn't in line with it.
I've also tried to grip it with pliers and vise grips, but it's too short. Hence my thought of drilling it out.

[Chris Schoenthal]

Here's one I like.

Mike

Thanks for the link Mike.
Definitely in the same ballpark as mine, but cheaper price.

[Chris Schoenthal]

I would try to fix it, but get a new hacksaw as well. You can always use an extra hacksaw.

Thanks for the thought Lowell, I have an old Miller Falls hacksaw that I can always fall back on, but this one is a quality high tension one that I'll play around with anyway.