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Thread: Good Contractor Saw Inplace of Cabinet Saw...

  1. #16
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    Apr 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geoff Crimmins View Post
    Another option would be to keep the cabinet saw, sell the dust collector, and buy a good half-mask respirator like the 3M 7500-series.
    That's an excellent suggestion. If space is the concern, then a contractor saw is not good cause it has a bigger footprint than a cabinet saw. And I just couldn't see going from a cabinet (especially a good one like a PM2000) to a job site saw.

  2. #17
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    Yes, reducing the footprint of the existing cabinet saw is a valid option here. One could also use a shop vac with an overarm guard to collect what comes off the top of the blade while just cleaning out the cabinet periodically manually, combined with good PPE.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. Bosch saw is a great saw. I had an older Unisaw for years , sold it several years ago.
    If I was buying a contractor saw today I would buy the Skil worm drive saw , I know contractors that have and use the saw, well satisfied with the Skil worm drive contractor saw.

  4. #19
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    Perhaps terminology should be cleared up here. The most commonly accepted terms are:
    Cabinet saw: trunions mounted to the cabinet, motor enclosed within.
    Hybrid saw: trunions are table mounted, but the motor is enclosed within the cabinet.
    Contractor saw: trunions are table mounted, motor hangs out the open back, table is cast iron & similar in size to a cabinet or hybrid saw.
    Job site saw: portable table saw with a direct drive universal motor, smaller stamped steel or aluminum table, truly portable.

    My main point is that there is a huge difference between a contractor & job site saw. The terms shouldn't be used interchangeably because it causes confusion.

  5. #20
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    Mar 2019
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    Los Angeles, California
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    I borrowed a Bosch job site saw and loved it!
    Regards,

    Tom

  6. #21
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    I borrowed a Bosch job site saw last year and loved it.
    Regards,

    Tom

  7. #22
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    Jun 2003
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    Northern Michigan
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    Due to moving and space limitations I went from a 3hp cabinet saw to a Dewalt 7491rs I believe is the model #. I really miss the larger table top, the extra space in front and back of the blade. Several of my accessories are near useless on the small top of the Dewalt. I do like the Dewalt and it is not much louder than my cabinet saw as it doesn’t scream like some others I have used. Really though the Dewalt when set up takes quite a bit of space but does fold down and stores upright in a small space. I find though that the Dewalt spends most of its time set up so I really didn’t save much space. I use a track saw for a lot of my needs also.

  8. #23
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    Alpharetta, GA
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    That's a huge decision that can easily become a regret depending on the work you're doing and your skill level, etc. If it were me, I would buy the jobsite saw and use it for a couple of projects that are somewhat challenging to me and see how I like it. You can always sell it for most of what you paid for it, or you can decide it works for you and sell the other. Either way, you get a definitive answer with a minimal investment.

  9. #24
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    One of the bigger problems with the job site sized saws is that the ones that I have seen and used do not have nominal and accurate 3/4 X 3/8" miter slots. Saws with non standard miter slots do not work well with tenon jigs, box joint jigs, and many other commercially made table saw jigs. Many of these saws also do not have good fences or any kind of saw dust control.

    My shop is a 1 car garage sized building and I have a mid 80's Unisaw with a 52" Unifence in it. I think I would consider getting rid of almost everything else in my shop before getting rid of my Unisaw, because of it's accuracy and ease of use. To make it work I had to butt the end of the side table up against the center of the long wall and I can't cut full sheet stock without almost emptying everything else out of the shop. I have to break down my sheet stock outside on a cutting table. This is still preferred over my experiences using any of the job site saws that I've seen and used. If someone knows of one of these saws that does have an accurate fence as well as accurate 3/4 X 3/8" miter slots I would like to know about it. Horsepower is of less importance than these requirements, but at least a 1 1/2 hp induction type motor would be the minimum that I would consider. Saws with universal motors scream and do not last very long.

    Charley

  10. #25
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    Aug 2017
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    A couple of thoughts...

    I know space is tight, but I would sure hate to downsize to a table saw with less than a 27" deep table (standard for 10" cabinet and contractor, but not jobsite saws.) A 24" deep table would seriously hamper wide crosscuts, and many jigs/sleds, since there would not be enough room in front of the blade.

    As for compact dust collection, I have an Oneida Mini Gorilla (the newer, molded model), and like it A LOT! It consumes very little floor space, compared to any other DC, especially with a cyclone and really good filter.

    -- Andy - Arlington TX

  11. #26
    I have a Dewalt DWE7491RS Jobsite Table Saw, the one with the folding stand. In my view it is surprisingly quiet, and very good quality. The table is cast aluminum, probably to save weight. My reasons for buying it was small storage folded, speed of folding, ability to stow it away in my garage, stability in use, and price. I have no plans to lift it up into my truck bed. I think if I did I'd have my wife help me.

    I am purely a weekend hobby woodworker in my garage. My process is to use a miter saw wth a stop block for cross cutting dimensional wood, a track saw for breaking down plywood, and the jobsite table saw for ripping dimensional wood (with Grripers), final cuts of plywood, and for rabbets & dadoes, as appropriate.
    Last edited by Ken Kortge; 04-02-2020 at 9:54 AM.

  12. #27
    As the OP, let me just explain a little...I'm 67 and sooner or later, somethings going to happed to me. I figure while I"m still able, I want to clear out all the heavy machinery from my 2-car garage shop, so that the wife doesn't have to. Another thought is that if something happens to my wife, then I'll have to downsize and move, which again means that I'll have to deal with all the heavy equipment, so I'd best do it sooner rather than later. I'll still be keeping most of my Festool gear, as it is made to be stored away. I can tell you this...some folks are going to be getting some killer deals.

  13. #28
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    Feb 2018
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    N CA
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    Derek, I have to say that without adding a location, you are doing the ultimate tease here. Approximately where are these deals going to be found?

  14. #29
    Jack, its not all written in stone, but something I'm trying to plan and get used to. I'm in the Sacramento area of CA. Not many deals around here, but I plan to list what I can ship, here on the site. As you know, when you've owned table saws for 25 years, you accumulate several accessories that just don't go with other saws. I even have a built-in router lift that must stay with the saw, so I figure most of my larger bits and accessories will have to go. Stuff like that is all over the shop. It's a shame, cuz as a hobby WW, my machines were really hardly used at all and I'm already having to say goodbye. Oh well, I'll post here when the day comes.

  15. #30
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    Apr 2017
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    Michigan
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    Derek
    I'm a couple years ahead of you but I'm planning on another 10 years. Not reducing any machines but not getting any more either, just the odd tool or accessory. Working thru the wood and hardware supply and giving a hard look at anything that has not been used in a while. It's a process. All that said, I think Rod's suggestion to reduce the size of your PM deserves a look. Maybe the router lift etc need to go. The saw will be easy for anyone to dispose of.

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