Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: v belt vibration from taking a set?

  1. #1

    v belt vibration from taking a set?

    How common is this problem? You don't use your saw for a month or so and it takes a few cuts to smooth out. My delta has three belts on a 3 pulley sheave, so imo it's more pronounced than a saw with only one belt. Now don't get me wrong I can stand a nickel on its side when running and a dime in certain areas, so it runs pretty smooth, just has a little more vibration in the beginning. It probably has the original belts from 2003 and could just use a fresh set, but they don't slip so I don't worry about it.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    WV
    Posts
    3,881
    Other than de-tensioning your motor every time your going to leave it sit for a while (which would be a pain when you want to use it) switching to a link belts may help a bit. Other than that just waiting for the memory to come out of the belts would seem the only option. Just fire up your saw and let it whip for 5 minutes if its set for a long while.
    Sometimes I just want to look at pretty pictures,... Thats when I go to the Turners Forum

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Doylestown, PA
    Posts
    6,073
    Some claim the 'cogged' (AX/BX) V belts won't take a set. Like a link belt but cheaper and quieter. I don't have one so can't say one way or another. Example:

    https://www.vbelts4less.com/standard...series-v-belts

  4. #4
    Just put them on the 3 HP General and on the jointer. The saw had a bit more vibration at first but has seemed to smooth out. For sure it was slipping with the old belt. Im not sure the angle on the belts matches the pulley exact but all numbers are correct. Put them them on the jointer a day ago and it runs smooth. Have them on two other machines and they turn by hand easier and dont have the memory bumps. When I saw that figured ill change out belts as i go.

    On the jointer my pulleys are really rusted. No problems with traction . Likely if the pulleys were cleaned up in some fashion it might make a tiny difference or I just leave it and belt life might be reduced a bit. The belts on the shapers is smaller and thinner and likely has less resistance still.

    P2340938A.jpg

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Alberta
    Posts
    1,439
    Travis I once bought a Unisaw that had sat for years. When I fired it up there was a very distinct thump thump sound. I rotated the belts one third and then 2/3 to stagger the set then turned it on and let it run for about 20 minutes,end of problem. If you do replace them just use real good quality belts and it will work fine. You need belts built for power transmission not automotive belts.

  6. #6
    A Link belt and a balanced pully really smoothed out my delta contractor saw. That was years ago.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    1,195
    Actually automotive belts are very good quality. Due to very high volume and very high expectations they get way more engineering and quality control than woodworking machinery.


    Woodworking machinery tends to be built with a very small pulley on one end or the other, small for the load applied. The cog belts are a good way to go because of this.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •