I have not postet for a while. Been away from woodworking due to having to little kids.
Now im back in a new house and im in the process of setting up my workshop. Im lucky to have a heated floor and about 40 M2.
So Im going to build the English Workbench aka Nicholson bench.
But before I do that im building some saw horses, Im building them timber frame style so I can practice my joining skills, which are at the moment almost not excisting.
Yesterday I cut the pre-planed 3x3" pine boards I bought for the saw horses. Im still learning to cut straight to a line, so the ends needed a bit of clean up.
Out comes my LN 60 1/2 R block plane with A2 iron, which I bought years ago, but only rarely used.
I thought it was perfect for endgrain..... No magic... OK, maybe its not sharp enough. Checked the back of the iron and I can see a small...What I now know was a wear bevel (because I googled it)....what to do?? Google google google.... The fast solution was using the ruler trick. I could not bare the thought of flattening that back every time I had to sharpen it.
Then I sharpened the bevel at 25 degrees because thats the way it comes from the factory and it must be right then. The edge kept chipping, just tiny little chips. I used my almost never used Spydercos, which I had for years. I remember it almost took ages to flatten them on my DMT lapping plate, which in the end killed it...that raised the price of these spydercos considerbly. Im using them dry because I heard that was the way to use them, but I could see little metal flakes getting embedded in the stone, so I might have done that wrong too...
nevertheless, edge chipping...google google google....so now it turns out that A2 is not suitable of a 25 degrees bevel....it should be 30 or even more...
Now im really confused If I sharpen to 30 degrees, the angle of attack is now 42 degrees, almost the same as a normal pitch...then I guess I could just as well try to use a no 4 for the end grain or what ??
Am I missing a point ?