Finishes compatible with disinfectants

[Brian Tymchak]

Got to wondering this morning. With our new reality of living with viral outbreaks, and everything being wiped down with disinfectant wipes (bleach, lysol,, etc), what finishes do and don't hold up to these cleaning agents? I'm thinking about child toys to moderately handled pices like decorative bowls, salt/pepper grinders, etc. My guess would be that lacquer would be best. How do wax finishes hold up?

Thanks!

[Prashun Patel]

Bleach and alcohol are tough on most finishes.

[John TenEyck]

Anything with ammonia in it, like most household cleaners contain, is really bad on most finishes, especially shellac. Lacquer is not a very chemically durable finish, actually, unless it's a catalyzed one. On the other hand, solvent based varnishes will tolerate a quick wipe with those cleaners and with alcohol or water with bleach in it. Think bar top finishes.

John

[Stan Calow]

wax is always a temporary finish.

[Jim Becker]

The most durable finishes are going to be some catalyzed products, 2K polyester products and some finishes with additional crosslinking chemicals added to them for greater resistance. No finish like lacquer or shellac is going to hold up...they don't cure/coalesce/crosslink and will re-dissolve with many of the chemicals commonly used for cleaning.

[Malcolm McLeod]

.. what finishes do and don't hold up to these cleaning agents? ..

In a chemical plant, for outdoor use we applied 1-2 coats of S-W epoxy (mechanical strength), then top-coated with S-W white high-build aliphatic polyurethane (largely for the UV resistance). It was bulletproof to virtually all solvents, but pricey.

Quick search shows this as similar clear option? If anything close to the S-W product, toys should last forever, or at least until age 4. Maybe.

[Brian Tymchak]

The most durable finishes are going to be some catalyzed products, 2K polyester products and some finishes with additional crosslinking chemicals added to them for greater resistance. No finish like lacquer or shellac is going to hold up...they don't cure/coalesce/crosslink and will re-dissolve with many of the chemicals commonly used for cleaning.

Jim, can you provide a recommendation? This is an area I don't know much about. Any chance any of these products are available in small sizes, or even spray cans?

Thanks!

[Jim Becker]

You can buy some 2K products in spray cans online, but I'm not up on the various suppliers. You can get products like Target Coatings EM9300 polyester in quarts plus get the crosslinker. Same for the EM8000cv conversion varnish. General Finishes products are also available in quarts.

[Brian Tymchak]

You can buy some 2K products in spray cans online, but I'm not up on the various suppliers. You can get products like Target Coatings EM9300 polyester in quarts plus get the crosslinker. Same for the EM8000cv conversion varnish. General Finishes products are also available in quarts.

Thanks Jim!

[Jamie Buxton]

Before you commit to catalyzed finishes, research their health hazards. Conversion varnishes depend upon formaldehyde. 2K urethanes depend upon isocyanates. Those are both very hard on the human body. In commercial use -- cabinet shops, auto body shops -- those finishes are used only in spray booths which remove those chemicals from the exhaust air, and the painters wear certified protective gear. Perhaps hobby use isn't enough exposure to require that sort of stuff, but it has been enough to keep me with good ol' solvent-based varnish. It takes days to finish a piece, which is why commercial shops don't use it, but I appreciate the safety.

[Brian Tymchak]

Before you commit to catalyzed finishes, research their health hazards. Conversion varnishes depend upon formaldehyde. 2K urethanes depend upon isocyanates. Those are both very hard on the human body. In commercial use -- cabinet shops, auto body shops -- those finishes are used only in spray booths which remove those chemicals from the exhaust air, and the painters wear certified protective gear. Perhaps hobby use isn't enough exposure to require that sort of stuff, but it has been enough to keep me with good ol' solvent-based varnish. It takes days to finish a piece, which is why commercial shops don't use it, but I appreciate the safety.

Thanks for the heads up Jamie. Something to think about.