The Kreg jig is very useful and not expensive. I had to replace the bit, though, because the Kreg bit caused a lot of tear out. I bought a Lee Valley bit that works perfectly.
The Kreg jig is very useful and not expensive. I had to replace the bit, though, because the Kreg bit caused a lot of tear out. I bought a Lee Valley bit that works perfectly.
The Kreg works for me and it has the advantage of three different spacing widths from the edge.
Since you stated wanting to use a router I think the Kreg is out. The Woodhaven accepts a 3/8" template collar and this is the method I use on a modified Rocker version. It is important to remember that using a router is usually done prior to assembly. Being able to add holes after assembly to counteract and irregularities is what I think makes drill motor versions more popular. They are not wrong but, I prefer the lunge router for clean perpendicular holes.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
I don't use self pins often enough to justify the price and space for a dedicated jig. When I want adjustable shelves, I will first mark the two support pieces with the distance from the front and rear of the cabinet with my combination square all along the path of the holes. Then I lay out the spacing on one of these lines. Then I clamp the two support pieces together so the graduated line is close to the center of the clamp up. Then I transfer the spacing to the remaining three lines with my carpenter square, which has bee checked for perpendicularity. Once all the holes are marked, I carefully drill all the holes using my drill press with a properly sized brad point bit. The shelves don't rock when the pins or angle clips are installed.
Lee Schierer
USNA '71
Go Navy!
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I use the Rockler jig and drill system as well.
Ask a woodworker to "make your bed" and he/she makes a bed.
Mine is probably the simplest, cheapest, and most crude ever. It's also at least 35 years old.
I have a few strips of BB plywood, that have small holes drilled with a drill press, after being stepped off with dividers. Those holes are a tight, slide fit to a TIG welding Tungsten that has a precisely centered sharp point on it, and a little wooden handle. The plywood strips are clamped to the cabinet part, and each hole marked by hand with the Tungsten.
After marking, it goes to the drill press that has roller stands set so it can easily be moved side to side, and the holes drilled with a good brad point bit in the drill press, using the tiny marking holes to judge where to start the bit.
It sounds crude, but it's worked for my one, or two cabinet jobs a year for decades. There has never been a rocking shelf produced, but I do have good eyesight.
edited to add: I said 35 years old, but I just remembered what house I started using them on, and that was built in 1978. Before that, I used the metal tracks.
And before I went high tech with the TIG Tungsten, I used a sharpened 6 penny finish nail for several decades.
Last edited by Tom M King; 03-23-2020 at 4:56 PM.
I built the WWA Shelf Pin Jig and used it a number of times. It is cheap, accurate and quick using it with a plunge router.
I have the Kreg jig and it works great. Router jig is interesting though.
Michael Dilday
Suffolk, Va.
I used a Rocker jig, with drill bit, and did the shelf pins near to the end. Take care if you do this! On one hole the bit grabbed and went through; on the secretary face that would be most visible and well lit of course. I got to learn how to make a Dutchman. It took a day, and in the end is almost invisible. But that wasn't the way I wanted to learn.
Terry T
Frank,
What jig were you using??
This is not too difficult to make from scrap plywood. I have more than a few, in different lengths, spacing, etc. The longest one is made from a 6-foot 1/2-inch thick plywood scrap, about 10 inch wide. Size the hole to a brass guide bushing of your choice, lay out the spacing between the shelf pin as you desire, bore the holes using a frostner bit. I find using a larger diameter guide bushing allow chips to be cleared with a vacuum better. Router bits can be changed between 1/4" or 5 mm. Whiteside up-cut spiral bit works very well and leaves clean holes. The essential thing is to always locate the jig on opposite panels by mirroring the position and referencing from the same edge/side/end. Need a plunge router though. The small version of any of the brands works well.
Kreg bit, router bushing and a section of pegboard
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