Assembling my new Jet 3hp XACTA T/S, and I need to provide a power cord. It goes from saw to a 20a breaker (single phase, 220v). Use 10g or 12g? TIA, vince
Assembling my new Jet 3hp XACTA T/S, and I need to provide a power cord. It goes from saw to a 20a breaker (single phase, 220v). Use 10g or 12g? TIA, vince
Hi, for single phase I would use 14awg as it’s rated at 18 amperes.
Regards, Rod
Thanks, Rod
12 is bigger than you need, I'd use it anyway because that's just what I do. The cost jump from 14 to 12 is small, up to 10 gets pricy.
14 to 12 is also not a lot heavier or stiffer. 10 is a different story. I built a 12awg when could have easily used 14--just wanted the beef.
earl
you don't say where you live at so we have to guess at what would be proper for you
So use 12 gauge 3 wire cord to wire your saw, as long as the cord is less than 50 feet long
IF you install a receptacle then make sure the receptacle and male cord end are rated for 20 amp, 220v, single phase
If he installs a receptacle I think he has to go to #12 not #14. If it is hardwired into the saw #14 will do.
Bill D
Definitely 12 ga. 3 wire for you application.
David
Amperage Capacities for Standard Non-Metallic (NM) Cable 14-gauge wire 15 amps 12-gauge wire 20 amps
Last edited by David Buchhauser; 03-19-2020 at 1:28 AM.
I wouldn't run anything leas than 12...
To be complete, here's the applicable table from the NEC:
FlexibleCordAmpacity.jpg
Beranek's Law:
It has been remarked that if one selects his own components, builds his own enclosure, and is convinced he has made a wise choice of design, then his own loudspeaker sounds better to him than does anyone else's loudspeaker. In this case, the frequency response of the loudspeaker seems to play only a minor part in forming a person's opinion.
L.L. Beranek, Acoustics (McGraw-Hill, New York, 1954), p.208.
I typically use the rubber coated cord available in bulk from the home center to make up machine cords. I use 12 gage for 20 amp machines and 10 gauge for 30 amp machines. Yes, it's heavier stuff, but it's also tough and stays flexible. Care is needed when stripping the ends to avoid nicking with a blade, but the end result is a very good and sturdy power cord for the tool in the exact length you want/need. I happen to use pig-tails on some of my machines which while increasing the cost of connections (I use twist locks), makes for a more flexible solution over time without having too much cord from the tool to the outlet. If the machine has to move, it's easy to make up a longer or shorter cord without digging into the machine or having that long cord to manage while physically moving it. Overkill for sure in most cases, but it's a preference that I've appreciated as my shop has evolved over time.
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
I recently had to swap out a 50A GFCI breaker in my garage that my lathe was tripping. The circuit was initially setup to serve a hot tub located out doors, but as I don't have a hot tub anymore, my electrician friend repurposed the circuit to give me another sub panel and another 220v drop in my shop.
Anyway, while he was doing this, he put his load meter on the circuit while I powered on various tools.
I wanted to know if the sub panel could support my current 220V tools as well as a 220v DC unit, which is on my wish list.
Sp I was curious to see the load of my Hammer A3-31 and SawStop 3HP running simultaneously.
The A3-31 had a startup hit of 53A, fo a few milliseconds and then settled to a 4A draw. The SawStop pulled 3A with no major spike at startup.