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Thread: Power Cord 3hp Table Saw

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Buchhauser View Post
    Same applies for S or SO flexible cable.
    David
    So the NEC is wrong?
    Beranek's Law:

    It has been remarked that if one selects his own components, builds his own enclosure, and is convinced he has made a wise choice of design, then his own loudspeaker sounds better to him than does anyone else's loudspeaker. In this case, the frequency response of the loudspeaker seems to play only a minor part in forming a person's opinion.
    L.L. Beranek, Acoustics (McGraw-Hill, New York, 1954), p.208.

  2. #17
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    One column for included neutral conductor. The other column for two hots and one ground with no neutral wire.
    Cords have thicker heavier insulation then cable so heating is more of an issue. But they are in free air and not buried inside a insulated wall so they do cool off more. Thus the amps pretty much balance out.
    Bil lD
    Last edited by Bill Dufour; 03-20-2020 at 12:50 AM.

  3. #18
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    Apr 2017
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    I typically use the rubber coated cord available in bulk from the home center to make up machine cords. I use 12 gage for 20 amp machines and 10 gauge for 30 amp machines. Yes, it's heavier stuff, but it's also tough and stays flexible. Care is needed when stripping the ends to avoid nicking with a blade, but the end result is a very good and sturdy power cord for the tool in the exact length you want/need. I happen to use pig-tails on some of my machines which while increasing the cost of connections (I use twist locks), makes for a more flexible solution over time without having too much cord from the tool to the outlet. If the machine has to move, it's easy to make up a longer or shorter cord without digging into the machine or having that long cord to manage while physically moving it. Overkill for sure in most cases, but it's a preference that I've appreciated as my shop has evolved over time.

    +1 to that!! 12 ga. is definitely the way to go for a 20 amp machine, and 10 ga. for 30 amp. machine. For extension cords and power cords - toughness and flexibility are definite advantages.
    David
    Last edited by David Buchhauser; 03-20-2020 at 3:24 AM.

  4. #19
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    Just use 12 gauge, you’ll be fine.

  5. #20
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    Apr 2018
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    Sounds like the OP is going with 12 gauge (which is a wise choice). When it comes to power cords the NEC assumes that the demand will be 100% at 100% duty cycle. It has to because how could they know something would be used differently. That being said it's not abnormal to buy something rated for 20 amps with a 16 gauge cord. The engineer who designed it knew that the normal load would be much less. For example, how often will your table saw actually be drawing that much load? Rarely will anyone be ripping 10/4 oak nonstop. I'm sure you could of used 14 gauge cord and never had a problem but for a few extra bucks why not go with what will work no matter what.

  6. #21
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    East Virginia
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    I'd use SOOW.

  7. #22
    I always opt for the safest, longest lasting cord I can get. I've always used a 30A breaker with 10 ga. flexible cord. It may be overkill, but I've never had an issue with it.

  8. #23
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    Houston, TX
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    Soow and sjoow is good for 25 amps for 12 gauge. Technically I could used 12 gauge for my 5hp but didn't realize at the time.

  9. #24
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    Just a note - I believe the home centers have stopped selling cable by the foot.

    I know The Depot announced they were stopping, which I assume means the Blue Box is too. Can’t speak for the regional players and I have seen by the foot cable at some Ace locations I’ve been in recently.

  10. #25
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    That would be sad, Dave, but I can appreciate that it was probably one of the more complicated and "wasteful" areas in the electrical section. That was my source for the rubber coated stuff to make up machine cords.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  11. #26
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    Aug 2017
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    Home Depot online shows a variety of SOOW cord available by the foot, but only with free shipping to your local store. It appears only complete rolls are available in store.

    I wonder if they are simply no longer providing by the foot cutting service in each store, but are consolidating that service to fewer locations. Consolidation would result in lower costs and waste.

    -- Andy - Arlington TX

  12. #27
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    That sounds like a doable solution Andy...especially for free store pickup.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  13. #28
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    Are we sure the motor is a 20amp draw? Most 3hp are 15 amp..
    ~mike

    happy in my mud hut

  14. #29
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    Apr 2018
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    About 2 weeks ago I picked up some 2 weeks ago at Lowes. They had 16, 12, and 10 gauge. The 10 awg 4 was cheaper than the 12 awg 3 SJOOW. The difference was the thickness of the rubber cover. SJOOW is only rated for 300v vs SOOW being rated for 600. I was making some long extension cords and the extra thickness was less important to me than the potential voltage drop so I went with the thicker wire. While the rack used to hold the wire take up some room if they remove it they'll give me one less reason to visit the store. Other than weight buying power cord is something that can easily be done on-line through plenty of cheaper companies. I do get that it's not just the rack but having an employee who knows how to operate it, measure and cut the wire, and to correctly label it.

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