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Thread: Reversed Fritz and Franz Jig Mk 2

  1. #1
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    Reversed Fritz and Franz Jig Mk 2

    Those who understand how a Fritz and Frans jig can revolutionise a sliding table saw, generally use a long slider table, and push the work piece against the far fence.


    This one is courtesy of Google ...





    If you have no experience with this jig, view this short video ...


    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uVUgjr_Iw1w


    Those with a shorter slider table, such as mine (1250mm/49"), can still use the slider to rip, however this is less simple. For a start, the crosscut fence is at the beginning of the slider table ...





    ... and attempts to replicate the larger sliders involve building a crosscut fence at the end. This was my Fritz & Frans jig ...





    It worked for ripping ...








    ... but it was a pain to have to set up the far crosscut fence each time.


    It occurred to me that I was doing this all wrong. What was suitable for a long sliding table was not suitable for a short sliding table. Their crosscut fences were at opposite ends. Therefore I decided to build a reversed F&F jig, that is, where the work piece was pushed against the crosscut fence at the beginning of the sliding table. The first build was to test the idea. This worked well enough to build the current version ...





    This is the sliding section ...





    The Incra fence has stops for accurate measurement of width. The front edge has non-slip.


    There is a scale to set the stops ..





    The handle at the rear is important ...





    I suspect that no one else has built a reversed F&F, and the reason for not doing so is that pushing the work piece against the front fence, and also pulling the slider past the fence, are incompatible actions.


    For this reason the handle at the rear serves to control the entire action: Push the work piece against the fence, then twist the handle and lock it in place ...








    A little while ago, I began working towards this design by adding a zero clearance extension to the crosscut fence ...








    Now this enables very accurate rips using the sliding table ...





    Regards from Perth


    Derek

  2. #2
    Awesome. Thanks for sharing,

    Erik
    Ex-SCM and Felder rep

  3. #3
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    Excellent craftsmanship there!
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  4. #4
    Took me a minute to catch what was being done. Does the fence on a short slider not slide to any point on the table?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnny means View Post
    Took me a minute to catch what was being done. Does the fence on a short slider not slide to any point on the table?
    The fence on the outrigger can be positioned almost anywhere.

    The fence that attaches to the table directly is at the front only.

    My F&F doesn't use a crosscut fence as a stop so I put it wherever I want...........Rod.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnny means View Post
    Took me a minute to catch what was being done. Does the fence on a short slider not slide to any point on the table?
    Johnny, the fence (on the Hammer K3) cannot be moved forward from the start of the sliding table. It remains at the foot of the slider, pushed against an immovable stop, where it may only be altered to the angle of choice.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  7. #7
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    Just to clarify for folks not familiar with sliding table saws, the behavior that Derek is explaining in the most previous post to this one is specific to that particular model machine. Many sliders do permit repositioning a "miter fence" like that so it can be optimal for a given job. Mine is moveable and I sometimes will move it forward so I'm not extending the front end of my slider wagon "way out there" (it's not a short stroke like Derek's) if I need clearance for something else I'm working on. My Fritz and Franz jig is setup similar to his and can be positioned pretty much anywhere, although I generally use my outrigger fence as a limit for the F&F fixture for that end of the cut because I can use the existing cam clamp to lock it down. These things are SO adaptable to however one wants or needs to work!
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post
    Johnny, the fence (on the Hammer K3) cannot be moved forward from the start of the sliding table. It remains at the foot of the slider, pushed against an immovable stop, where it may only be altered to the angle of choice.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Derek, isn’t that true for only the crosscut fence that mounts directly to the table?

    The fence on my outrigger mounts in 2 positions and the outrigger table can be mounted almost anywhere on the sliding table.....Regards, Rod

  9. #9
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    Rod, the shorter sliders, such as mine, do not have an outrigger. The crosscut fence mounts to a single, specific position, and it cannot be moved from this.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post
    Rod, the shorter sliders, such as mine, do not have an outrigger. The crosscut fence mounts to a single, specific position, and it cannot be moved from this.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Hi, what size slider do you have?

    Mine has the 49 inch table and I ordered it with an outrigger....Rod

  11. #11
    I find the idea of a slider without on outrigger to be puzzling. Especially as it would seem to apply mostly to smaller machines.

  12. #12
    Actually, I see now the the OPs saw does have a small outrigger.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnny means View Post
    Actually, I see now the the OPs saw does have a small outrigger.
    This is the saw, photo taken a couple of years ago ..



    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnny means View Post
    I find the idea of a slider without on outrigger to be puzzling. Especially as it would seem to apply mostly to smaller machines.
    Hi, I use mine mostly for solid wood furniture so the outrigger hangs on the wall most of the time.

    For cross cutting solids I don't use the outrigger unless it's sheet goods, for solids the crosscut fence is fine.

    Now, when you need the outrigger, it really shines, a small saw that can support and crosscut a sheet of material is great........Rod.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rod Sheridan View Post
    Hi, I use mine mostly for solid wood furniture so the outrigger hangs on the wall most of the time.

    For cross cutting solids I don't use the outrigger unless it's sheet goods, for solids the crosscut fence is fine.

    Now, when you need the outrigger, it really shines, a small saw that can support and crosscut a sheet of material is great........Rod.
    Ditto. I build one-off items of furniture in solid wood. As a result, the work pieces processed are shorter rips or crosscuts. I do not need the capacity to process sheet goods.

    The shorter slider wagon works just fine for 90% of rip cuts. I also have the rip fence set up now with the Jessem Clear Cut Saw Guides, which are really excellent and actively add to sawing accurately and cleanly (because they pull the work piece against the fence) ...



    Regards from Perth

    Derek

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