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Thread: Wiring a phase perfect. Internet don’t loose your poop on me.

  1. #16
    What's the knob look like?

  2. #17
    To be clear I have 240v everywhere so I’m clearly not that incapable. I just don’t know show to use a dam voltage meter. Yeah I get most would say I shouldn’t be in a open electrical panel. But clearly I figured out the wiring part of this just fine.

    I’m also the guy who will scale giant dead nuts vertical overhanging cliff without a rope so I get my view of risk and reward are not as most. But look at my very conservative opinions on Covid 19 and you see I’m not a flagrant risk taker across the board. I know when I’m in over my head and heed to it. I also know myself and when I can push forward.

    So the knob. Best I can give you is this picture Darcy, I lost the red knob in transit FYI. So I have been trying to move it with a wrench. It’s the upper most red one on the side mount box. From what I understand that is like the mushroom ones on new machines and must first be turned to the on position then the low speed selected then high if I want high speed. But the dam knob will not turn for the life of it and I fear I’ll break something I can’t replace.

    A5D5785C-BECF-43C9-AC78-08E50FA541AB.jpg

  3. #18
    That's the main power/disconnect. If the knob fell off that may be the reason it won't turn, some had a spring on the back side that acted as an interlock. open the control cabinet and look at how it works. Also at the bottom of that switch may also be a way to interlock/lock out the power.

  4. #19
    Yeah the bottom has a slide thing. I can take pictures. Looks like a place for a lock.

    Regardless of where I indicate the slide I still get nothing.

    Hmm if a spring I’m probably kinda screwed. Well at least a little..

    Quote Originally Posted by Darcy Warner View Post
    That's the main power/disconnect. If the knob fell off that may be the reason it won't turn, some had a spring on the back side that acted as an interlock. open the control cabinet and look at how it works. Also at the bottom of that switch may also be a way to interlock/lock out the power.

  5. #20
    With benefit of the photo, maybe I do know small part of the hand-shake (...I wasn't sure what wouldn't turn).
    Euro panels will have a mechanical interlock on the main power disconnect. This prevents energizing the panel's contents with the door open.

    There should be a link - pushed or pulled by the door - to the disconnect. This link may be damaged or missing. If so, the disconnect will not operate properly. There should be a manual over-ride as well, but I'd not recommend using it.

    I'll guess Siemens made the guts, but I'd need more interior photos to be much further use. (Did you post interior photos in another thread?)

  6. #21
    Open the cabinet (with power off) an examine how that switch works, you will probably figure it out easily.

  7. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by Malcolm McLeod View Post
    With benefit of the photo, maybe I do know small part of the hand-shake (...I wasn't sure what wouldn't turn).
    Euro panels will have a mechanical interlock on the main power disconnect. This prevents energizing the panel's contents with the door open.

    There should be a link - pushed or pulled by the door - to the disconnect. This link may be damaged or missing. If so, the disconnect will not operate properly. There should be a manual over-ride as well, but I'd not recommend using it.

    I'll guess Siemens made the guts, but I'd need more interior photos to be much further use. (Did you post interior photos in another thread?)
    Its probably all Klockner Moller. It's in most German equipment.

  8. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by Darcy Warner View Post
    That's the main ....
    Just as an aside, I'm betting you'd LIKE Texas!

  9. #24
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    You need to get that disconnect switch grounded. There is a ground wire running through it, tied into the switch (which isn't necessary), but the case of the switch is not grounded. Could lead to a very dangerous situation.

  10. #25
    Yes I wondered about that but the ground rod only has room for one wire.

    So I can run into it from my sub panel off my main panel or out of the phase perfect to it. I could also add a larger grounding terminal and I do have one I purchased. This was my one and only hiccup other than the voltage.


    Quote Originally Posted by Frank Pratt View Post
    You need to get that disconnect switch grounded. There is a ground wire running through it, tied into the switch (which isn't necessary), but the case of the switch is not grounded. Could lead to a very dangerous situation.

  11. #26
    So Darcy,

    Who do I make the check out to and where do I send it.

    You know My first inclination when the knob would not turn and was missing was that must be the problem. I really did not want to get into ripping apart tank electrical component of the machine out of fear of breaking something I could not release. This is when I pulled out the voltage meter and ended up with the 120V dilemma. I figured early on I didn’t know how to use a voltage meter but had done so prior at work to tend to that old T73 when it would crap the bed and Martin would walk me through resolution.

    Bellow are pictures of the knob/switch taken apart.

    Notice the wedge shaped pieces at the bottom of the circle. Well it’s pretty clear they should push each other and force the rod into the circle. That was not happening as the lower rod was overlapping the upper portion. Must have happened in transport.

    Connected everything and she fired right up. Run out is nonexistent.

    Let it run for a few minutes and did not see oil dripping at the sight glass. I guess or read and am told it will take a few minutes.

    Ok so what is the proper way to tend to the ground in the knife shutoff. I assume it needs to run from the ground ground rod in the sub panel. To ground rod in the knife box, to the ground rod in the phase perfect, then again from the ground rod in the phase perfect to the ground rod of the three phase panel.

    If done such a way it is connected to the ground at my main panel and the ground rods outside my house.

    That’s correct right?

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  12. #27
    Just common things that happen during transit. Not the first time I have seen it.

  13. #28
    And not the first time you have helped me so thank you again,

    I think I need to replace the motor bearings as the motor hisses a bit as it’s winding down. If so no big deal and I fully expected to have to do this or that to get the machine in gods operation order being made in 1982 and coming out of a actual shop not a play shop like mine.

    Made its first cut in my shop. Didn’t have fence plates made so I threw a cutter with a rub collar on.

    Now that the internet fully believe you and I are both bat poop crazy I gotta go to the grocery store and hoard lol..

    Remember hoard fest lol or are you that much younger than me. What a joke, blues traveler lol.


    E31A628C-3370-43FD-8E75-177C0A4AAB8B.jpg

    Quote Originally Posted by Darcy Warner View Post
    Just common things that happen during transit. Not the first time I have seen it.

  14. #29
    It could simply be the belt or the motor fan making noise.
    Run it without the belt and see what it sounds like.

    Not sure what a blues traveler is.

  15. #30
    Do you have your meter set to higher voltage range on AC volts. Mine has two ranges, 0 to 200 volts and 0 to 750 volts. On the lower range, it won't show a reading if voltage is over 200 volts.

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