[OP]
Contributor
Building a small island for my kitchen. Two 20 x 24 side by side cabinets with drawer and door. On the showing ends and back I would like to glue on strips for a "faux" stile and rail look. I would like to have the door line up with outside edge. The problem I see is on the hinge side that the door will not open because of the extra thickness of the case and the "stile" and hit the case. Is there a hinge that will work? Any help is much apprectated.
Vince
Contributor
I think we might need a little sketch showing your plan, at least I do!
--I had my patience tested. I'm negative--
Moderator
Vince, I hope you can get a solution to your issue, but unless we can visualize things, it's going to be hard. You might want to become a Contributor (click on the "Donate" link up above) so that photos (and private messages and Classifieds) are available to you.
That said, you might also consider changing your design to all drawers which more and more folks are finding to be a better solution for kitchen lower cabinets including on islands. Easier to find and store things. Typical arrangement is one shorter over two taller for kitchen applications.
--
The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Contributor
So your problem is that after you glue an end panel on to the casework, you've built up the wall thickness to be 1 1/2" thick, and the standard euro hinges don't handle that big overlay. There's lots of possible fixes. Here are two:
* Make the casework so that the rail and style panel is the actual casework, rather than an applied panel overlaying the casework.
or
* Keep the plan of an applied end panel, but remove parts of the underlying panel so that the euro hinges mount to the end panel.
Member
Originally Posted by Jim Becker
Big fan of drawers here too, but....
If I properly understand the geometry of OPs plan, I think a full-overlay hinge will give you the open ‘stand-off’ needed to clear the end panel/stile.
Member
This is typically how and end panel is treated
end panel.jpg
Applying faux rail and stiles is a non starter in my opinion. First, you've got the hinge issue you ask about. Second, the resulting joints and mismatched thickness is going to look awful on the ends/sides.
There really isn't a good way around making a real rail and stile panel for the sides whether or not they are applied or integrated as the cabinet side as Jamie suggests. You could make the sides longer / deeper and apply the fakes on the back , but I'd just make a real panel for there too, while I was set up to make them anyway.
[OP]
Contributor
Thanks for all the replys. I'll have to rethink the whole design.
Member
Why not just put doors on the back side?
Member
That's not a good option for euro construction. In fact it's really bad advice.
Euro cabinets need a back to keep them from racking.
Contributor
Not quite sure what you are doing but Salice make a hinge specific for thick doors and will handle a door up to 40 mm thick ( 1.575 inches).
google Salice thick door hinge. I use Salice but have never used the thick door hinge. I believe Blum also make a thick door hinge.
Guest
If I’m understanding you want a Blum full overlay hinge. Depending on the setback “if there is one” from the face frame, or in the case of euro style the carcass or ace panel you’d again want 0% plates. This is if the carcass panel was 3/4 and edge banded.
If you are trying to make the end panel extend to obscure the door edges use inset hinges with 0% plates.
If there is a setback from where the hinge turns and or mounts to say your face frame you just need the appropriate mounting plate and image or full,overlay depending regarding its depth in mm.
Imop euro style is just edgebanded 3/4 carcass parts.
Contributor
Look at Blum 39C compact hinges...up to 1-9/16" overlay.
Scott Vroom
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
Contributor
True, they offer big overlay. Unfortunately they have a huge gap between the back of the door and the front of the casework — 3/16” — and it cannot be adjusted out. If the door is only seen from the front, the gap doesn’t show. But if is seen from the side or the top, which seems likely on the OP’s island, the gap will be obvious and annoying.
Member
Agreed. And the design concept is marginal at best, so should be re-thought.
But, the 3/16" gap can be hidden with a deeper / wider end panel. That's a relatively easy issue to overcome.
Guest
Again the point/application could be going right over my head?
https://www.amazon.com/Overlay-Blum-.../dp/B004K807JC
But if in the case of a face frame just build the cab do interior carcass edge is flush with the interior ff edge or put stand off blocks until it is.
If euro style and just say 3/4 carcass and a full overlay door then 0% plates and these hinges work and you can adjust them in and out to tend to the reveals..
They also come in a thick door version..
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