Sharpen 1/16 parting tool??

[Paul Williams]

What is the correct way to sharpen a parting tool. I am talking about the one that looks like a kitchen knife with a 1/16" blade, about 1 1/4" tall and cut at a 45 degree angle at the end. I have ground on the long side which leaves a burr on the cutting side, but distorts the shape of the tool. I have also ground on the end. I just finished reshaping my parting tool so it looks pretty much like it did when new. Now how was I supposed to sharpen it?

[Tom Wilson66]

I always sharpen my thin parting tool with a diamond hone (400 then 600). It only takes a minute and doesn't remove a lot of metal or distort the shape of the tool. Also leaves it very sharp. The rest of my tools I sharpen on the grinder.
Tom

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I always sharpen my thin parting tool with a diamond hone (400 then 600). It only takes a minute and doesn't remove a lot of metal or distort the shape of the tool. Also leaves it very sharp. The rest of my tools I sharpen on the grinder.
Tom

Ditto for me!

[Richard Coers]

I sharpen it with a double bevel. I use the Wolverine long rest. The bevels are the same angle on both sides, so I can flip it over to hit the second bevel. The long bevel has a radius from the 8" wheel, but I see no issue with it. Link to a double bevel version. https://www.woodcraft.com/products/s...f-parting-tool

[John Terefenko]

hone here too.

[Paul Williams]

Guess I should restate my question. Do you sharpen by grinding on the end, or the long side. Sounds like Richard does both.

[Prashun Patel]

I think I had your same issue, Paul. I am probably doing it wrong, but I basically sharpened the long side @ 45 deg on the grinder for a second. That basically truncated the corner so it now looks like a typical spear-pointed parting tool, except the tip is almost all the way on one side. I use the tool with the small edge down. Works fine.