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Thread: which VFD (and what else?) needed for Delta DJ 20 jointer

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Collegeville PA (30 min west of Philly)
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    which VFD (and what else?) needed for Delta DJ 20 jointer

    Hi!
    New-to-me Delta DJ 20 (37-350) 8" jointer is presently setup with a 3 phase motor, starter, and switch... which I can't power without some adjustments. It's a 1997 machine that is in great condition, and very flat tables (checked with precision straight edge and feeler gauges). Just need to figure out powerrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.

    My research so far tells me that it may be more cost effective (and less surgery to the tool) to use a VFD, which is a new topic to me entirely. I've been trying to learn all day about this, and have reached the "will someone please just tell me the answer" stage. :-)

    The motor plate details:

    Delta motor model: 66-044
    HP: 1.5
    Volts: 200
    Hz: 60
    Service factor: 1.15
    Insul. Class: B3
    Time Rating: Cont.
    Design Letter: B
    RPM: 3450
    Amps: 5.8
    Ph: 3
    Enc: TEFC
    Frame: 56-65
    Max Ambient: 40 degrees Celsius
    Type: TS
    RVA Code Letter: K


    My simple brain says to just buy something like this $100 seemingly everything I need option and "go for it" but I'm lost in the details, in over my head, and humbly hoping the brilliant folks here can help me make a wise decision (and ideally a cost-sensible price point).

    edit: in your replies, please (correctly) assume that I need even the most obvious pieces of this explained... VERY much appreciated!
    Last edited by Bob Riefer; 03-10-2020 at 3:28 PM.
    - Bob R.
    Collegeville PA (30 minutes west of Philly)

  2. #2
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    The Fm-50 has been the default reply in this case for decades, but it has been discontinued. I found myself needing another one (I have 5 FM-50ís) for my second Unisaw and had to find a substitute. I actually bought the one you listed, but returned it and bought this cheaper one that has more functionality.

    https://www.amazon.com/LAPOND-Perfor..._dp&th=1&psc=1

    Tiny little sucker and works great, so far. I just got it last week and donít have the saw up and running yet besides wiring the motor and testing the VFD and belt tension and such.

  3. #3
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    Feb 2010
    Location
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    Ahhhh thank you Matt!

    Can I beg for you to help me visualize the wiring?

    Currently:

    Motor wired first to the "starter panel" (mounted on side of cabinet), switch is also wired to starter panel, starter panel wired to power cord that would plug into the wall.


    End goal (I think?):

    Motor still wired to "starter panel" same as today?, VFD fits in someplace?, switch still wired as it is now?, New cord (gauge?) to 20 amp receptacle (2-pole dedicated breaker)
    Attached Images Attached Images
    - Bob R.
    Collegeville PA (30 minutes west of Philly)

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    End goal: Motor wired directly to the 3-phase output of the VFD, switch wired to the appropriate low-voltage connections of the VFD, new single-phase 240V cord from the VFD to outlet. The original starter will no longer be used. The manual for the VFD you choose will provide specifics on wiring and programming.

    (FM50 owner here)
    Chuck Taylor

  5. #5
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    You guys are awesome. A less-than-$100 fix!!!!

    THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!
    - Bob R.
    Collegeville PA (30 minutes west of Philly)

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    Buy a Fuji, more money, but a great warranty with excellent support (from wolf automation)

  7. #7
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    Modesto, CA, USA
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    That first linked one the fan runs 100% of the time when plugged in. You can use your existing switches for low voltage control of the vfd. Most likely ad the vfd to right end or back side of cabinet externally to the base. Slim chance you can gut the existing switch gear and put the vfd inside that box. It will need some cooling airflow.
    Try it using the vfd onboard switches at first then decide if you want to add other, easier to reach, switches latter. You could mount more switches up high or at the left end as well.
    Probably do not use any deceleration forces, just let it coast down. 3 seconds accelerate and 3 seconds deceleration are the recommended times for many tools. Longer times reduce stress on the motor and moving parts.
    Bill D

  8. #8
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    On my lathe the vfd fan is on all the time so I wired a contactor to supply power to the vfd and a pilot light. I turn the motor on and off with the vfd. When I am done I turn the contactor off so the fan goes off for the night. I have one "on" switch and three "off" switches for the one vfd. I suppose I could use the maste off switch if I had to. So I really have four "off" switches.
    Bil lD

  9. #9
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    The fan on the one I linked to does not run continuously. It shuts off in about 3 seconds after the frequency hits 0.

    One of the reasons I returned the other one.

  10. #10
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    Good clarification matt, thanks again!
    - Bob R.
    Collegeville PA (30 minutes west of Philly)

  11. #11
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    No problem, I was pretty happy I found the one I got after searching ebay and amazon for an FM50 substitute. I didnít want to spend the money on a higher end one and also didnít want the knock off ebay stuff, and wanted to try a middle of the road one. Fingers crossed this one holds up.

    It also supports a breaking resistor, not that an 8Ē jointer would need one.

  12. #12
    Would he be able to use the machines stock switch if he used a static phase converter instead of a VFD? It has been my understanding that with a static phase converter you can use the stock switch on any machine as long as it is a 220v switch but not (obviously) if it is a 440v switch.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Coker View Post
    Would he be able to use the machines stock switch if he used a static phase converter instead of a VFD? It has been my understanding that with a static phase converter you can use the stock switch on any machine as long as it is a 220v switch but not (obviously) if it is a 440v switch.
    I would think he may be able to use the stock switch with the VFD depending on how it's wired. If the switch is a simple on/off mechanical switch, there will likely be a couple terminals on the VFD that override the on/off functions integral to the VFD. My Delta drill press is set up like that. If the switch on the DJ20 is more complex then I don't know if it could be repurposed or not. A static phase converter would be a thought though, a jointer doesn't really need variable speed or reverse. A concern would be loss of power. Do static phase converters reduce the output of 3 phase motors? I thought they did, by 1/3 or something but i may be wrong. Plus the linked VFD must be about the same $$ as a static phase converter.
    Last edited by Curt Harms; 03-11-2020 at 7:40 AM.

  14. #14
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    I feel like static phase converters are a thing of the past since the price of a VFD has dropped so much. VFDís give full power, adjustable accel decel time, speed control, no loss of power... all kinds of benefits over a SPC, though not all those benefits are really applicable to a jointer.

    A SPC looses 1/3 the power. Not worth it when a simple light switch can be used in place of the stock switch. I prefer mushroom emergency switches though.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Curt Harms View Post
    I would think he may be able to use the stock switch with the VFD depending on how it's wired. If the switch is a simple on/off mechanical switch, there will likely be a couple terminals on the VFD that override the on/off functions integral to the VFD. My Delta drill press is set up like that. If the switch on the DJ20 is more complex then I don't know if it could be repurposed or not.
    The wiring diagram on the inside of the starter cover in the photos above indicate that the stock switch (shown as "control station" in the diagram) can be easily wired to a VFD. It's a straightforward pair of NO/NC momentary contacts.
    Chuck Taylor

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