Forgot to add lockout reverse on the vfd. A jointer is never run in reverse.
Bill D
Forgot to add lockout reverse on the vfd. A jointer is never run in reverse.
Bill D
Thanks again guys! Parts are arriving in mail today and I’ll be working on it over the weekend. I’ll post my progress and any additional questions
- Bob R.
Collegeville PA (30 minutes west of Philly)
If it were me I would get a 3HP to 5HP static phase converter and be done with it. Yes you do loose 1/3 of the horse power but on a jointer that would most likely never be an issue. I have a VFD on my 7.5hp Lobo shaper and strongly dislike it. It came with the machine when I bought it used. To turn it on I have to go to a lot of trouble switching through the menus. I honestly don’t even feel comfortable messing with it and plan to switch to a static phase converter soon. I like being able to use the stock switch and just punch it and go. I am sure that if I looked up the manual on my VFD I could figure out how to operate it better but for now I don’t have time and still yet prefer the simplicity of a static phase converter. I have static phase converters on my Delta UniSaw and my up cut saw and have never felt the need for that 1/3 power loss that is often quoted.
You must be the only guy still using a statics. You’ve got a real odd ball VFD too.
All my VFD’s are ready to go, just hit the remote switch and it’s on like donkey Kong.
I’ll happily keep that 1/3 power. And on a jointer, yes that 1/3 power can definitely be an issue, especially with more people using helical heads which require more hp.
OK, here we go! Got the electrical receptacle done yesterday, and have the male side of the new power cord ready to go. Time to wire the other side.
Previous page, last post, Charles Taylor mentioned being able to wire the VFD to the existing starter (at least I think that's what he was saying).
To me, this means that the motor and switch wiring would be left untouched, and that the VFD would be basically inserted as an "in between" from incoming power into the starter panel.
1) Here's my attempt to translate... do I have it right? (also inserting the starter panel and VFD diagrams)
2) If yes, then I think once I set the settings on the VFD, operation thereafter would be simply pressing the jointer's existing on or off button. Yes?
3) And lastly... I'm thinking of installing the VFD inside the jointer cabinet to protect it. I have very good dust collection on the jointer (modified to 6" port, added a top to the chute, cutter head and chute are basically sealed from rest of cabinet) so it seems like a nice safe place for it, and I won't need to access it very often. Thoughts?
jointer wiring original vs with VFD.JPGjointer starter panel wiring diagram.jpgJointer VFD wiring diagram.jpg
Last edited by Bob Riefer; 03-14-2020 at 9:57 AM.
- Bob R.
Collegeville PA (30 minutes west of Philly)
Prretty close. It looks like you've got the high-voltage plan down, but maybe not the low-voltage connections from the power switch.
Just to reiterate/clarify, the VFD replaces the function of the starter. The starter will no longer be connected to anything: not power, not the switch.
I think you've got the following two items correct:
a) Main power (single phase) is connected directly to the VFD.
b) The three phase power leads from the motor are disconnected from the starter and connected instead to the output of the VFD.
I don't see a line in your checklist on what to do with the wiring from the switch.
c) The wiring from the switch, aka control station, is disconnected from the starter and connected instead to low-voltage terminals of the VFD. The page from the VFD manual that you showed doesn't cover this. There should be another illustration in the manual showing which low-voltage terminals to use. And of course there may be some settings in the programming to ensure the VFD interprets the low-voltage connections correctly.
Chuck Taylor
Checking manual now... more in a minute
- Bob R.
Collegeville PA (30 minutes west of Philly)
This is somewhat "Greek" to me, but your help is really appreciated and I'm learning :-)
Here's the two pages of "typical" system connections, but I'm not sure which portion would pertain to the switch. Does this help?
- Bob R.
Collegeville PA (30 minutes west of Philly)
Wiring is pretty simple once you see it. All black wires are from the motor, in any order. Red and black are the 220 single phase. That’s it! I didn’t change programming but accel and decel time, and rotation direction. I need to look into whether it’s running at 50 or 60hz though.
All pretty easy once you get the hang of it.
Thanks Matt... This part, we got. :-) Wondering about the switch wiring (I'd like to keep the existing DJ20 on/off switch) as the final step in the equation... Do you have a pic of that?
- Bob R.
Collegeville PA (30 minutes west of Philly)
Actually, I found an old thread (ironically where Matt was trying to figure out this same topic of the switch) and it seems the D11 (forward run), D12 (forward jog), D13 (fault reset) etc... those might be where a switch is connected? (oh, and one of those terminals is also GRND where I'm presuming the ground goes).
- Bob R.
Collegeville PA (30 minutes west of Philly)
One little note, the OEM motor is rated for 200V, intended for 208V supply, the default setting for most VFD's is 230V, and 240V is excessive for 208V motors, read through the manual to see if the output voltage can be adjusted,I did the same thing for a couple of 200V 3Ø Rockwell machines that were former school machines.
Thanks! Properly programming the vfd will be next step.
Anyone know which terminals I should use (diagram above) for the switch? I have 4 wires from switch, b,w,r,ground
- Bob R.
Collegeville PA (30 minutes west of Philly)
I guess I'll just randomly try a couple terminals? Can't find a clear answer
- Bob R.
Collegeville PA (30 minutes west of Philly)
The good news is that the vfd connection allows me to power up the jointer and it runs nice and smooth. My random
attempts to get the switch working didn’t work. I have no idea how to connect them still
- Bob R.
Collegeville PA (30 minutes west of Philly)