I killed my Hammer A3-31 because I’m a dumb dumb...

**Tom M King** · 03-10-2020, 3:25 PM

I knew one of the best welders ever, gone now, but has stuff sitting on the Moon that he welded. For a job like this, he would use a coathanger for a TIG filler rod, tack it enough to hold, but not too much not to bend easily. Then he would set up a dial indicator, and make sure the gear was true all around, tack it a couple of more places, test it, then weld it with a regular filler rod once it was okay, and secure in place.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SZjZJSig4bo

Since that shaft would need to be replaced otherwise, there really is little to lose, if you choose a good welder.

**Larry Edgerton** · 03-10-2020, 3:38 PM

Peter, I did the same last year. Decided as I picked up this piece that enough was enough but rather than put it down and walk away I ran it. Kicked back and smashed 4th and 5th metacarpals, several surgerys later I had a custom fabricated bone.Should have listened to that little voice.

I agree that it should not have broken. What you did I do to my SCM on a regular basis, at least once a month. No issues, but mine will slip the feed roller rather than breaking something. In using rough stock you just find that one occasionally that is larger than you first pass setting.

That machine was most likely assembled by a man no smarter than yourself. He had more knowledge of that machine, so that is what you need to acquire, either through research or just diving in. It bolted together, so you can unbolt it. I would take the shaft to a machinist and have it repaired and a hub machined for the sprocket that would not only regain true center but improve its rigidity. you could have a keyway cut into it if you are concerned about it being too strong. All very doable, and will cost a lot less.

I raced for years and have had several crankshafts repaired, so I would not worry about strength, much more force on a crank than a sprocket.

Is the feed roller direct or belt drive off of the one motor? I would consider loosening up the belt just a tad so it will slip in the extreme case of a stall to make up for the weak feed assembly.

That will be 2 cents please.......

**Tom M King** · 03-10-2020, 4:00 PM

Getting the shaft re-machined is a good idea. I just finished rebuilding the forward, and reverse clutch packs in the reverser assembly inside a 1979 John Deere tractor. Of course, Deere has really good manuals, parts diagrams, and availability, but it has to be a much more complicated job than fixing that machine, and I had never been in the guts of a tractor before. I did it because the dealer was honest enough to tell me that they didn't have a mechanic smart enough to fix it. It can't be that complicated.

In that process, I had the bearing journals, on the long shaft that went all the way through that assembly, built up, and re-machined. That's the kind of thing that machine shops do all the time. It cost me a little less than a couple of hundred bucks for the work on that shaft.

**Alex Zeller** · 03-10-2020, 4:07 PM

I'm not sure if I would weld it. Once you do it could be the weak link or even worse no longer the weak link. While you figure you've learned your lesson and will not repeat it only time will tell. If you do feed something too thick and it does happen again what part will be the weak link and more importantly, how much will it cost when it breaks?

**mreza Salav** · 03-10-2020, 4:32 PM

BTW, I've attempted (not noticing) doing the same on my Minimax J/P. It has a metal bar in front of the feed roller and it will prevent the piece from getting in further if it becomes "too thick".

**Rod Sheridan** · 03-10-2020, 5:38 PM

Hi Jim, the Hammer feed mechanism is the same as yours, friction drive using a rubber wheel... Rod.

**Rod Sheridan** · 03-10-2020, 5:41 PM

Hi Larry, the feed drive is friction wheel like your SCM....Rod.

**Rod Sheridan** · 03-10-2020, 5:51 PM

Originally Posted by mreza Salav

BTW, I've attempted (not noticing) doing the same on my Minimax J/P. It has a metal bar in front of the feed roller and it will prevent the piece from getting in further if it becomes "too thick".

The Hammer has the same feature....Rod

**Darcy Warner** · 03-10-2020, 6:14 PM

Seems reasonable and pretty quick for the repair.
400 to show up is cheap. 1850 is more common.

**Chris Fournier** · 03-10-2020, 7:22 PM

As a member I am not allowed to see photos. This policy only hurts those who pay and hope for good content! Don't let those who say "Unless you've done this kind of repair on this kind of machine" deter you, they have no idea of what they are talking about. You have a machine, the world is full of them and welded repairs work. Truth be told many engine crankshafts are pressed together and the first hop up modification is to weld the crank! If done by someone who understands machines you have a repair on your hands. I am surprised about the damage caused by your operator error as I have done the same thing on a few machines. Best of luck in your recovery!

**Larry Edgerton** · 03-10-2020, 7:29 PM

Originally Posted by Rod Sheridan

Hi Larry, the feed drive is friction wheel like your SCM....Rod.

Mine is a 520S standalone. Has its own system with a 4 speed driven off of a separate belt run by the main motor.

**Jim Becker** · 03-10-2020, 8:02 PM

Originally Posted by Rod Sheridan

Hi Jim, the Hammer feed mechanism is the same as yours, friction drive using a rubber wheel... Rod.

Ok. Curious how getting jammed would have done the damage that's stated if the feed system could have slipped. What am I missing?

**Mark e Kessler** · 03-10-2020, 10:13 PM

I asked this question earlier, if the hammer has the toothed bar in front of the the kickback fingers. So it does? Confused how this happened in the first place

Originally Posted by Rod Sheridan

The Hammer has the same feature....Rod

**mreza Salav** · 03-10-2020, 11:37 PM

Originally Posted by Mark e Kessler

I asked this question earlier, if the hammer has the toothed bar in front of the the kickback fingers. So it does? Confused how this happened in the first place

I am also confused how this can happen then as that bar should block further feed of the tapered piece into the machine...

**David Buchhauser** · 03-11-2020, 1:18 AM

Originally Posted by Chris Fournier

As a member I am not allowed to see photos. This policy only hurts those who pay and hope for good content! Don't let those who say "Unless you've done this kind of repair on this kind of machine" deter you, they have no idea of what they are talking about. You have a machine, the world is full of them and welded repairs work. Truth be told many engine crankshafts are pressed together and the first hop up modification is to weld the crank! If done by someone who understands machines you have a repair on your hands. I am surprised about the damage caused by your operator error as I have done the same thing on a few machines. Best of luck in your recovery!

Hi Chris,
For only $6 per year you can become a contributor and see the photos - a small price to pay to help support the SMC forum.
David

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