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Thread: I killed my Hammer A3-31 because I’m a dumb dumb...

  1. I keep reading this thread, mostly out of the horror, like watching a car crash. I'm sure we've all put a board into our planer that got a bit thicker toward the end without realizing it. On my lunchbox planer I always make first passes with the cutterhead unlocked and sometimes increase the depth of cut midway through if I hear the board starting to get thicker and the planer bogging down. I know I've stalled it a couple of times. I would be upset if that broke my lunchbox, and obviously more so if it were a truly high-end planer.

    I do agree with others wondering if there was some significant wear already and this simply pushed it past the breaking point. I would still expect a shear pin to break somewhere, though.

    Bruce

  2. #47
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    The more I think about it, it sounds like a design flaw to me. I’ve had three planets, a Dewalt lunchbox, a Jet 15” 4 poster, and now an Oliver 399. For all of them, if I fed a wedge shaped board that gets progressively thicker, they just get stuck on the depth limiter and the infeed roller spins. No explosions.

    If I were you I’d take this up with Hammer, not as a repair issue, but as a warranty issue. It simply should not do what happened, especially on such an expensive dive machine.

  3. #48
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    Matt, rather than a design issue, it could merely have been "that one machine" that had some weakness. I think this was pretty much a "one-off" problem, given how many of these things are out there in use far heavier than the OP likely puts his machine through based on context.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  4. #49
    One of those times on the job where you just do it because everybody is waiting and there's a deadline. Ran a rough sawed Douglas Fir 8" X 8" by 12 foot column through my A3 31 in planer mode. I measured and planned to hit the high spots first but it bogged down, I hit the stop button, reduced cut, and all went well. The machine handled this big hunk of wood with no problem. One guy on each end supporting it with me running the planer. 8 passes through.

  5. #50
    Most guys on this forum do not have to maintain and repair machinery like farmers do, so if you are in that camp, you probably should just have someone come and repair the machine. If you could haul it to the technician, and save the travel time that might be a good idea. I had a 83 model JD tractor transmission fail, and I had to have the dealer pick it up and repair it, the bill was 21,700. So this repair job is not that bad. Of course if I had it, would attempt to fix it if I could figure how to, maybe look on U tube for a video. I have fixed a lot of things that looked difficult, and managed to get by, but not always. Would help if you have a machine shop neighbor who could check it out.

  6. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    Matt, rather than a design issue, it could merely have been "that one machine" that had some weakness. I think this was pretty much a "one-off" problem, given how many of these things are out there in use far heavier than the OP likely puts his machine through based on context.
    That one machine, as in this model or this individual machine? Either way, trying to plane a board that’s too thick shouldn’t destroy any planer - lunchbox or this $5,000 (or whatever it cost) one.

  7. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Day View Post
    That one machine, as in this model or this individual machine? Either way, trying to plane a board that’s too thick shouldn’t destroy any planer - lunchbox or this $5,000 (or whatever it cost) one.
    That one specific machine, not the model. I don't believe that the problem that the OP experienced is common or there would be lots of examples and complaints. But Felder/Hammer sells a ton of these machines. I agree that it "shouldn't" happen...Mr. Murphy apparently had other ideas for the OP.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  8. #53
    I agree, unless there was no limiter, maybe I missed it or we are not hearing the whole story (totally possible I missed it) the wedge shaped wood would have been stopped by the limiter with no harm done, I have had similar experiences over 30 years on big planers to 12" scmi j/p to my 16" current j/p no issue just lower the table and keep feeding.

    Did the OP make any modifications or extreme adjustments? Like maybe cranking the infeed roller down for maximum pressure?


    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Day View Post
    That one machine, as in this model or this individual machine? Either way, trying to plane a board that’s too thick shouldn’t destroy any planer - lunchbox or this $5,000 (or whatever it cost) one.

  9. #54
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    Think of it this way. You were tired and weren't paying attention around powerful machinery. Even if you spend the $400 to have the work done be thankful. Lots of tired people end up in the emergency room with a much larger bill. I would try to fix it myself simply because I like a challenge with the idea that if I couldn't I would have all the parts and just have to pay for the tech to fix it.

  10. #55
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    Tired or not, a planer shouldn’t explode like that.

  11. #56
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    Most sprockets are driven by a key in a key way machined into a shaft.
    Having a long key way in a shaft helps to spread the load to the shaft and the key becomes damaged when something like this happens. Then you would just replace the key. Sometimes the key way in the shaft gets deformed too and you have to remachine the key way 180* opposite the damaged key way.
    The A31 has 2 flats machines onto the shaft, if I am right. I am going by what the poster said at beginning of the thread. This is not a good tool design because the length of the 2 flats is very short, and it can easily be rolled over if overtorqued.
    Chain drives can be very unforgiveing in a situation like this. A V-belt may have slipped and not caused so much damage.

  12. #57
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    The A3 series combo jointer/planers have a "friction wheel" in the feed-roller drive train. The manual states:

    10.3.7 Checking/changing the friction wheel (transmission)

    Note: The friction wheel is subject to wear.
    Should the examination reveal a heavily damaged or worn surface, then the friction wheel must be replaced.

    Note, the find numbers and the legend for the accompanying Figure 10-9 appear to be mixed up, perhaps in the English translation of the manual.

    -- Andy - Arlington TX

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