The build is nearing the conclusion. The drawers, case back, and finish to do. Here, the drawers are continued. The focus of this article is on fitting the drawer (with lipped sides), and the fixtures that are used in the course of this process.
We ended the last build session with the drawer parts made ...
... and the lipped drawer fronts completed ...
First task today was to plane the groove for the drawer fronts ..
The drawer sides and drawer back were dovetailed ... simple through dovetails. The notable feature here is that space is left for the drawer slip (which replaces the drawer groove as the drawer sides are 1/4" thick).
Of interest may be the bench hook I use. I suspect that some may look at this and wonder why I am butchering it by chopping on its top ..
Well, it is just scrap, and took about 5 minutes to make. So far this one has lasted about 3 months. I should get a few more out of it.
Not only is it used for chopping, but also sawing ...
... and even shooting ...
One of the issues with a lipped front is that it cannot be planed to fit after glue up. So, there are lots of dry fitting, and the sides are planed individually. This planing stop is invaluable for thin boards ...
There is non-slip in the form of Crubber on the face of the stop ...
When fitted together, any raised pins need to be pared level. Here, the drawer is captured in a fixture (essentially, two pieces of ply, each with a cut out). The pins are pared with the newly-released Veritas flushing chisels ...
I've had a pre-production set for a couple of years. This is what a prototype handle looks like ...
Veritas now supply this in a nice wooden handle. The one I am using is a design of my own, ala a Japanese slick ..
Fitting the drawers also required positioning and glueing the drawer dividers. These also act as drawer stops ...
This is the drawer divider in position ...
It is slid back ...
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