Questions on Refinishing Chisel Handles

[Stew Denton]

Hi All,

I am currently working on restoring several old chisels, some I have had 40 years and more, some several years, and a few recently had. The socket chisels are mostly a Hines 57 mixture, although I do have a few Stanley chisels.

Many are socket chisels that had no handle (a "the price was right" situation), but there is one old Stanley 750 that has a handle that is in good shape with the original finish still in place.

I would like to restore several to "kind of match" as best as I can, the old stanley color, and shape. I plan to use them with a mallet. The plan is to sand, stain, and finish. I do like the look of the one good old Stanley handle that I have on that good chisel. I don't have a lathe so it will be chisel, rasp and sanding blocks, etc., to worry the handles until they fit the sockets. The leather on a few are welled out a little and will need to be sanded to fit the diameter of the wooden part that is next to it.

I have a few old "Stanley type" handles, and some others that appear to be ash, and have not been stained so are the light oak color. Some of the light color ash handes do have some sort of finish. I bought some replacement handles on the auction site for a relatively low price for those chisels with no handle.

The questions are: 1. what type of finish would you use, 2. would you put any finish on the leather, and 3. would you have any other experiences or other suggestions or methods that worked well?

I have done a number of saws and planes, and used spray lacquer most of the time because it is so easy and quick, but occasionally when I have extra time I use polyurethane, because the polyurethane is so incredibly tough, wear resistant, and I like it.

Any comments would be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance, and regards,

Stew

[Jim Koepke]

Stew, does the handle you want to "kind of match" have a red color clear coat?

That may be hard to match.

The leather on a few are welled out a little and will need to be sanded to fit the diameter of the wooden part that is next to it.

Leather is difficult to sand. You will likely do better cutting it with a chisel or a knife. Place the top of the handle on a piece of hardwood scrap to support the leather as you work down with a chisel, gouge or knife.

jtk

[Stew Denton]

Jim,

Yes, the chisel handle has a kind of reddish clear coat. It is kind of a dark brown with a reddish tint. I am moderately color blind, so don't do that well on colors that are tints. I do fine on strong colors, but shades....not so much. From what you are saying, I may just have to live with what I end up with, color wise, but that will be fine. The advantage of being a bit color blind for something like this is that they may end up a good match for me, but someone who sees colors well may not think they match well at all. The truth is, however, that they are chisels, so well matched finishes is not a big deal. After using them a few weeks I won't even notice the color, so will be far more concerned with keeping them sharp.

Thanks for the advise on the leather to.

I have not been diligent enough on the work of restoring the chisels. Need to get after it more.

Thanks and regards,

Stew

[Jim Koepke]

The truth is, however, that they are chisels so well matched finishes is not a big deal. After using them a few weeks I won't even notice the color, so will be far more concerned with keeping them sharp.

One of my strategies with chisel handles is to have them be different from each other so they are easier to pick the one wanted while they are covered in shavings on the bench:

New Handles.jpg

The color helps a bit, but these have enough contrast they shouldn't be to difficult to pick through the different sizes.

Most of the time my handles are not finished. A few have been given a spray of shellac. Mostly they get a coat of furniture wax while on the lathe.

That is one big advantage of having a lathe, even a cheap one. Mine is a Craftsman lathe from the 1950s that came with some tools and a chuck. It set me back $100. It was found by placing a WTB card on a super market bulletin board.

When fitting a handle, placing the handle in the socket and twisting it will leave dark areas on light wood. These are the high spots on the tapered tenon. Lightly file and repeat until the darkened area begins to cover the full taper. Of course you have to make sure the small end of the taper is making contact all around and not bottoming out the fit. Light chisel work can be substituted for a file if need be. My socket chisel handles rarely come loose with weather changes. When they do, a few minutes is spent to adjust the fit.

You have also likely noticed the leather on the ends of chisel handles consists of stacked leather washers. There is usually a dowel in the center of the washers. Adding leather washers seems a bit of extra work to me. My paring chisels are rarely struck and then lightly. For chisels that will be struck my choice for the handle is usually ash or hickory. Only a few of my chisels are actaully set up to use with a metal headed hammer. They came this way and may eventually be changed since the heavy metal hoop isn't kind to a wood mallet.

One more thing, if you have a mushroomed socket, this may help > https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?245479

jtk

[Jerry Olexa]

I would not put finish on the leather..My opinion....

[Michael Fross]

For your question #1, I would use Tru-Oil. One of my favorite finishes and, as a gun stock oil, I believe it holds up really well to hand use.

Michael