Pencil

[ken hatch]

Most of the time I use regular #2 pencil. I keep a battery operated pencil sharpener close at hand. I do have .05 and .07 mechanical pencils in the tray. When I really get seriously about marking I break out the lead holders and pointers different leads different colors if needed. You can also make very fine lines with a carpenters pencil sharpened to a chisel point.
By the way, Alder is very good to work with. It works easy with sharp tools. A little soft for some applications. Does blotch some. Looks a lot like birch when finished. I would be a little concerned about using it on a horizontal surface wear someone could rest or drag their feet on it.

James,

I'm only going to use Alder for the base, still waiting on MsBubba to bless the slab. BTW, went to the wood store to buy the wood for the base, spent 40 or more minutes picking through the Alder bin for boards that were straight and correct width and didn't pay much attention to anything else. When I checked out the bill was $450 USD, whoa Nelly there ain't that much wood on my cart. Turns out someone had stacked some Hard Maple and White Oak in the Adler bin and only one of the boards I picked was Alder. That was the bad news, the good was all the last rejects I had re-stacked on top and all I had to do was exchange with out looking for good ones. The note was better as well only $120 USD out the door.

ken

[Eric Rathhaus]

I like the Caran de Ache fixpencil, supposedly the first one of the first mechanics pencils. You can get a variety of thicknesses (.7 to 3mm), design supports the lead well, comes with sharpener in the pencil . . .

[James Pallas]

James,

I'm only going to use Alder for the base, still waiting on MsBubba to bless the slab. BTW, went to the wood store to buy the wood for the base, spent 40 or more minutes picking through the Alder bin for boards that were straight and correct width and didn't pay much attention to anything else. When I checked out the bill was $450 USD, whoa Nelly there ain't that much wood on my cart. Turns out someone had stacked some Hard Maple and White Oak in the Adler bin and only one of the boards I picked was Alder. That was the bad news, the good was all the last rejects I had re-stacked on top and all I had to do was exchange with out looking for good ones. The note was better as well only $120 USD out the door.

ken

I’d bet that 450 puckered you up a bit😳I would guess that that hard maple and white oak disguised as alder looked really good. To bad that one was not checked out as alder. That wood (pun intended) have been a treat. LMAO

[Derek Cohen]

Ken, this is a great pencil. I’ve been using one for about 12 months, even posted that information here as well (this info probably does not register with us all unless really involved). I have both the leads and the lead holder ...



The leads work well in other brands, since they have reduced breakability (is there such a word?). The lead holder is great in this regard as it has a built-in shock absorber.

I am not sure where I first heard about them, possibly from Chris Schwartz, who posts such information.

They have been such a success and have replaced the 2mm clutch pencils I had been using for many years. Being only 0.5mm, the ends do not require sharpening, unlike 2mm leads.

It’s always good to pass on helpful jnformation.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[ken hatch]

Ken, this is a great pencil. I’ve been using one for about 12 months, even posted that information here as well (this info probably does not register with us all unless really involved). I have both the leads and the lead holder ...



The leads work well in other brands, since they have reduced breakability (is there such a word?). The lead holder is great in this regard as it has a built-in shock absorber.

I am not sure where I first heard about them, possibly from Chris Schwartz, who posts such information.

They have been such a success and have replaced the 2mm clutch pencils I had been using for many years. Being only 0.5mm, the ends do not require sharpening, unlike 2mm leads.

It’s always good to pass on helpful jnformation.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Derek,

I may have found out about them from your post. I know it wouldn't have been something I would have found on my own. If so I apologize for not giving you credit but then I'm old and forgetful .

ken

[Derek Cohen]

No apology needed, Ken. I do the same, re-post good information.

Did I tell you how I managed to stay 39 years old the past 31 years? No ... well, when I was 39 I decided to give all my birthdays to my wife, and so I generously did so. She enjoyed a double birthday present each year. Not so much now as she has aged tremendously. I, on the other hand ....

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jim Koepke]

For most of my pencil work, a #1 (B soft) works fine. My crank sharpener puts a flat point on them. For marking lines from a pin or wheel gauge the point is given a few passes over a piece of 400 sandpaper. Otherwise a carpenter pencil is used that is easy to sharpen to a chisel point to stay in a gauge line.

jtk

[Derek Cohen]

I like the Caran de Ache fixpencil, supposedly the first one of the first mechanics pencils. You can get a variety of thicknesses (.7 to 3mm), design supports the lead well, comes with sharpener in the pencil . . .

Eric, I've used these for many years ... since my early childhood, in fact ...




Now I much prefer the 0.5mm Zebra DelGuard. No sharpening needed.

Jim Koepke; For most of my pencil work, a #1 (B soft) works fine. My crank sharpener puts a flat point on them. For marking lines from a pin or wheel gauge the point is given a few passes over a piece of 400 sandpaper. Otherwise a carpenter pencil is used that is easy to sharpen to a chisel point to stay in a gauge line.

Jim, no sharpening!

Regards from Perth

Derek

[David Silverson]

I use a similar Zebra but the metal bodied shank, the Zebra M301.

[Jim Koepke]

Jim, no sharpening!

There are many mechanical pencils in my accumulation. There are 0.3mm, 0.5mm, 0.7mm and a lot of 2mm pencils. For me the good old fashioned wood encased lead works fine even if it occasionally needs a few moments of sharpening.

Different strokes for different folks.

jtk

[lowell holmes]

I'm kind of am like Jim, I use #2 wooden pencils. I have a crank pencil sharpener in the shop.

[michael dilday]

I use a Mars® technico 780 2mm and a Pentel .9mm and .5mm lead pencils. Seems like the .9mm is becoming my go to for marking pieces but the .5mm may take it's place soon. Seems like I can get closer to the rule with the .5mm.

[steven c newman]

I knife a line..IF I need a precise line to cut to.....then, so I can SEE that line, I'll go over it with a sharp #2 Yellow pencil....sharpened to a fine point. IF the line doesn't have to been precise, like rough cutting to length....just the old #2 will do.

[Bill Carey]

The Delgaurd is a nice pencil. Nice bit of engineering. I carry that and the Pentel Side FX - the FX has the lead advance on the side and can be advanced without changing the grip on the pencil. I find that to be pretty convenient at times.
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[Jim Koepke]

The Delgaurd is a nice pencil. Nice bit of engineering. I carry that and the Pentel Side FX - the FX has the lead advance on the side and can be advanced without changing the grip on the pencil. I find that to be pretty convenient at times.

My first Pentel 0.7mm Side advance pencil was purchased about 20 years ago. Not long ago it seemed to have disappeared. Thinking it was lost for good a pair of new ones was purchased. Candy found it under the car seat. Candy always liked it so now she has one and the spare is next to the computer.

jtk