MFT Style Workbench

[Frank Drackman]

I have a medical condition that hinders my ability to much hand tool work so I sold my big workbench. I need to replace it with another flat surface where I can still clamp workpieces but it doesn’t need to be as large, heavy or have the traditional vices. I started investigating MFT style workbenches by reading forums and watching videos but still have a few questions.

Most of the designs seem to have a single sheet of MDF for top surface with the 20mm holes in a 96mm grid. What are the disadvantages of using baltic birch plywood instead of MDF for top?

To allow for using the 20mm holes for clamping the top on these style benches is elevated from the subtop. How much space has to be under the top to allow for the insertion of clamps into the holes?

With a single sheet of MDF or plywood for the top there needs to be a support structure that doesn’t interfere with the use of the 20mm holes. I assume that the layout for the holes has to be done in advance of the supports so that it doesn’t get in the way. Any suggestions for the design of the support structure?

As always, thanks for your suggestions.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Frank, yes you'll need to take into account the supports underneath.

A torsion box style would be best, 75 to 100mm deep depending upon the mass of the workpiece.........Rod.

[ChrisA Edwards]

I have the Festool MFT, but don't use it that much. I found it a little small in surface area to be of much use and the cross cut length was a little limited.

I liked the concept and really wanted a better cross cut capacity using my Festool track saw. I have an existing bench with a 4" over hang all around the perimeter. When I built this bench, I didn't think, well actually didn' really know about torsion boxes, so I made this bench a little too tall to replace the top with a torsion box.

So I bought a sheet of 3/4" MDF and made it about 8" larger in both width and length of my existing bench top.

I bought the Parfit Bench Dog system https://tsoproducts.com/accessories/...ystem-mark-ii/, which gives you the ability to drill 20mm Bench dog holes in any pattern that you like.

I use lots of bench dogs as stops and micro-jig dovetail and Festool clamps through the holes for clamping down. I have to do this where the MDF hangs over the edge of my existing worktop. As the MDF is not fixed tp my old bench top, I slide it around to give myself the best access for clamping and then usually clamp that to my old bench.

Hope this helps'

[scott lipscomb]

I used 3/4" baltic birch. It works great. I used the Parfitt hole jig, too, and put full sized holes every other, and I used the other, small pilot holes to align the ribs of the torsion box and put screws through the pilot holes to glue the torsion box together, then took the screws out after the glue set. What I really like about my set up is that it is extremely flat and weighs about 150 lbs or so. Its not secured to the base, which gives me flexibility, yet its heavy enough to stay put. I have ideas for the next iteration if I ever get to it-there is a lot of potential to use the space inside the torsion box for different things. Oh yeah, you need around 2 1/2 inches or so for the leg of the Festool clamps to fit.
torsionmft.jpg

[Jim Becker]

I really like the MFT-style setup and while I have an actual MFT, I've started to migrate my other bench surfaces to that format...with some accommodations so I can still use my holdfasts which require .75" holes and thicker, solid stock. My first bench that combines both the 96mm grid of 20mm holes in MDF with a reasonable number of .75" holes in 2+" thick maple was my dedicated guitar bench. I'm actively in planning for a replacement top for my main bench using a similar idea and my auxiliary bench will have both downdraft and provision for "the grid" for extra assembly support. The dogs, etc., designed for the MFT and similar are setup for the thinner 19mm/.75" thick tops. I would imagine that high quality plywood work work fine, but MDF is flat, full thickness and easy to work with in creating such a bench top.

Here's the guitar bench top so the "combination" setup I mentioned can be visualized...

IMG_5874.jpg

[Jim Dwight]

I don't know how MFT like you want this work surface but I really like Ron Paulk's designs. He uses a plywood top with 20mm holes on 96mm spacing - or similar - but puts on a lower level for holding tools so the top doesn't get so cluttered. His are designed to be portable but I made mine stationary. My main worktable has a 3/4 plywood top with the 20mm holes and to the left of my RAS and CMS I have another long work surface with this hole pattern and a lower level. It is again a plywood top.

I used a woodrave base for my plunge router and pegboard to bore the holes. I was skeptical about the alignment but have since made some squaring jigs that use the holes and they are as square as any tool I have to measure them. This should be a link to the woodrave router base (or you can google it): https://woodrave.com/shop?olsPage=pr...oring-template

Another idea I really like but don't have a big need for is a mobile cart like MFT style work surface. You can find a long thread about it on the FOG (Festool Owners Group).

[Frank Drackman]

Thanks for all of the suggestions. I am also thinking of putting plastic laminate on the top. Anyone have experience with laminate on a workbench?

[John Petsche]

Jim,

Do you think an MFT top attached to a solid workbench frame/base would have the capability of performing hand & power tool woodworking effectively? I saw your post of a hybrid MFT/Solid workbench top and your comments about migrating towards the MFT design.

I am getting ready to build a workbench and I am considering building a torsion frame with MFT top with a front vise instead of a traditional solid workbench top due to the work holding flexibility. I am also considering placing the top on an Noden Adjust-A-Bench base for additional flexibility. Do you think that setup would allow for effective hand-tool work? Thanks!

John P.
Iowa

[Richard Coers]

Have you thought about using the Match-Fit clamps with dovetail slots in the bench top?

[Curt Putnam]

To muddle your thinking, in addition to the MFT style 20 mm grid system, you can also do a 3/4" grid system and do either in combination with MicroJig's dovetail clamps. Check out MicroJig's Ultimate bench.assembly table on YouTube.

I'm trying to figure out if any of these approaches have a place in a traditional handtool bench

[Jim Becker]

Jim,

Do you think an MFT top attached to a solid workbench frame/base would have the capability of performing hand & power tool woodworking effectively? I saw your post of a hybrid MFT/Solid workbench top and your comments about migrating towards the MFT design.

I am getting ready to build a workbench and I am considering building a torsion frame with MFT top with a front vise instead of a traditional solid workbench top due to the work holding flexibility. I am also considering placing the top on an Noden Adjust-A-Bench base for additional flexibility. Do you think that setup would allow for effective hand-tool work? Thanks!

John P.
Iowa

John, it comes down to mass and stability. Build your bench so it's got what you need for the intended purpose. My new main bench is a hybrid as you mention. I wanted the weight because I do occasionally bring out the hand planes. That top is on my original all metal Noden Adjust-A-Bench and it doesn't rock at all. But mine is also setting metal to the concrete floor and I can physically push it if I bang my body into it. For serious hand tool work, I'd put some heavy feet on the base, perhaps with some non-slip of some kind to reduce the ability to do that. There's a trade-off with Adjust-A-Bench's utility as compared to the shear mass that a big, beefy, solid wood bench base brings. If your hand tool work is more about refining things, you'll be fine with the setup. If your hand tool work is working rough timber from scrub through finish, you may want more mass. IMHO. For me, the height adjustability is essential and I use that capability fully. My back thanks me for that, too.

You can build a torsion box that's beefy with some weight no problem. For the top, you'll want to stick with .75" or so material if you plan on using any of the type of clamps that have to insert through the grid holes. If it's just dogs, make it as thick as you want. My guitar bench used 1"/25mm MDF and I only use dogs on it. My main bench grid field is in material that about .9" now, but once I get it to a drum sander (the place is open now) it will be back to the .75" or so that will support MFT type clamps. My auxiliary bench on the Noden "craftsman hardware" Adjust-a-Bench base has a 1"/25mm top and I only use dogs in the holes. One nice accomodation I've seen folks do is to have the grid plus have every third row or so be slots for clamping. That makes for a very flexible setup.

[Jay Kepley]

There is a YouTube channel called "Hooked on Wood." This guy is great. He's got an mft-style workbench that is very clever and well done. I plan on building that bench at some juncture. I ordered the parf guide system from Axminster in England. It was actually the least expensive place to buy it that I could find. Strange, but true.

[Frank Drackman]

I had the same experience purchasing the Parf Guide. Cheaper & quicker get it from UK than US retailer. Life is strange.

There is a YouTube channel called "Hooked on Wood." This guy is great. He's got an mft-style workbench that is very clever and well done. I plan on building that bench at some juncture. I ordered the parf guide system from Axminster in England. It was actually the least expensive place to buy it that I could find. Strange, but true.