Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 44

Thread: trying to make room for bigger jointer

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Collegeville PA (30 min west of Philly)
    Posts
    1,143
    Blog Entries
    1

    trying to make room for bigger jointer

    I suppose we all have our own woodworking sub-hobbies (cough cough, obsessions), and I guess mine is currently "shop improvements".

    While I completely understand that it's the person behind the tools that matters most, there are times when tools can limit results and enjoyment in the shop.

    In this case, the thing forcing me to think is that I have a 6" Ridgid currently that works just fine overall, but I have been increasingly finding instances where I feel like I'm being wasteful with material (by needing to rip to just under 6" in order to face joint), or where good results are tough to achieve on the tool (e.g. I'm finding it to be a wrestling match to joint longer table top boards nicely on an infeed table that's about 2' long).

    Sigh.... as such, I'm contemplating a bigger jointer. I really don't feel like spending right now, but so many posts and tips from friends tell me this isn't frivolous based on how my learning curve is progressing, how much I use the shop (a lot), I can re-sell my old unit to partially offset cost, and I'd be buying used too most likely.

    My goal would be to be into something in the 8" x 70ish inch range. I'll likely buy used when the right model comes along.

    So... this post is about 2 things.
    1) Y'all generally agree that weekend warrior "plus" like me would enjoy/benefit from upgrading from 6"x48" to 8" x 70ish?

    2) Shop layout to accommodate this...

    I really really really want to keep the new jointer in the same spot as existing jointer. I LOVE the workflow in this spot, my newly redesigned dust collection reaches this spot already, and it just would generally fit here nicely.

    BUT, the new, bigger machine will pinch a walk-through zone to the point of not being able to pass through that area of my shop... so some stuff must move.

    My thought is to make the moves seen in the attached pics (one without comments, same pic with proposed equipment moves as comments) so that I have a hallway freed up.

    The biggest question in this move is... Will I love or hate having the router table in the extension wing of my table saw? Will it be a problem that I can only access front and back (not left and right) in that position (since table saw and miter saw station block the left /right)?

    Any other thoughts?

    THANK YOU!


    router table move to accommodate jointer.jpg router table move to accommodate jointer_with comments.jpg

    Bob R.
    Last edited by Bob Riefer; 03-04-2020 at 9:30 AM.
    - Bob R.
    Collegeville PA (30 minutes west of Philly)

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,675
    Consider a J/P combo machine...lots of capacity in a reasonably compact space...
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Marina del Rey, Ca
    Posts
    1,934
    Size your jointer to be large enough to handle any material you're likely to be working with. Arrange the layout to accommodate that.

    Love the router table built into my main table saw top extension. Fence serves both machines.

    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    22,492
    Blog Entries
    1
    For cramped quarters, Jim B. has your answer. I do enjoy having long tables on my jointer. This lets me joint many parts without additional outboard supports. Your shorter machine just needs supports more often. Perhaps you could build some in to something so that they were more readily available?

    The J/P reduces the machine footprint but, depending on configuration, can require more room to operate than either single machine. This just comes into play when you are looking at workflow and your available space. Many of the less expensive of these machines have painfully short infeed and outfeed tables so outboard support requirements would be similar to your current jointer. However, you get to get rid of your planer so that space can be re-captured for other use. If your jointer and planer are currently colocated, a J/P is sure to be a winner.

    As always, its a compromise where you want the things that are most important to you to weigh more heavily in your choice than some one else's thoughts about machine "A", "B" or "C". I have used painter's tape to mark out the machine footprint and operator area required in order to better picture the impact of a new machine on my space. this may help you think about rearrangements without having to move things about.
    Last edited by glenn bradley; 03-04-2020 at 11:30 AM.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Marina del Rey, Ca
    Posts
    1,934
    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Riefer View Post
    ...I really really really want to keep the new jointer in the same spot as existing jointer. I LOVE the workflow in this spot...
    In a production shop, where time really is money, workflow might be seriously important. But I do understand the convenience of having the jointer positioned where you now have it--that is where I used to have my previous 6" jointer. Since upgrading to an 8", and more recently a 10", I have had to relocate the jointer to the opposite wall where, though a bit less convenient, allows me to still function well enough in my overcrowded shop.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    2,758
    You might be one improvement away from gridlock. You're harboring a couple of aircraft carriers in there. It might be time to take a hard look at them.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Collegeville PA (30 min west of Philly)
    Posts
    1,143
    Blog Entries
    1
    Excellent replies as always, thank you!

    Let me zoom in on a few nuggets that especially caught my eye...

    1. I'm very open to "kicking the can down the road" (i.e. delaying this decision) by trying to better support materials while using my existing jointer. Perhaps I'll be happy with this option. Are rollers on adjustable stands the preferred method here? I'm assuming I would adjust the top of the roller to be even (using, say, a 4 foot level) to the infeed, and another to the outfeed. Yes?

    2. Andy... it looks to me like your setup is much like mine, where your best access to the router is from the front of the table saw... Do you find that to be limiting ever? Or do you like it?
    - Bob R.
    Collegeville PA (30 minutes west of Philly)

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Collegeville PA (30 min west of Philly)
    Posts
    1,143
    Blog Entries
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Bender View Post
    You might be one improvement away from gridlock. You're harboring a couple of aircraft carriers in there. It might be time to take a hard look at them.

    :-) Indeed! Note: That's just 1/2 of my working space in that picture. But I do try to keep the other side wide open for assembly and miscellaneous needs. Then there's a separate lumber storage room, and a separate multi-purpose room including spray booth... and upstairs is the rec room (which the kids rarely let me use anymore).
    - Bob R.
    Collegeville PA (30 minutes west of Philly)

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Marina del Rey, Ca
    Posts
    1,934
    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Riefer View Post
    ...Are rollers on adjustable stands the preferred method here? I'm assuming I would adjust the top of the roller to be even (using, say, a 4 foot level) to the infeed, and another to the outfeed. Yes?

    2. Andy... it looks to me like your setup is much like mine, where your best access to the router is from the front of the table saw... Do you find that to be limiting ever? Or do you like it?
    1. = No on the rollers, etc.

    2. Mine is a Stanley 3-1/2hp router in an OEM under-table mount. The table extension is a re-purposed, cast iron, table saw top I adapted using 1" x 1" square aluminum bar stock with a self-fabricated aluminum insert. It has been in use for decades and I wouldn't change a thing.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Collegeville PA (30 min west of Philly)
    Posts
    1,143
    Blog Entries
    1
    No to rollers... meaning your advice would be the bigger jointer?

    Good to know that setup has been treating you well for a long time. If I end up with the bigger jointer, I think this is going to be a necessity in my setup too
    - Bob R.
    Collegeville PA (30 minutes west of Philly)

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    West Lafayette, IN
    Posts
    6,529
    Would you be able to raise your TS up a little to allow the bigger jointer to tuck under the left TS wing?

    And how much bigger really is it? Longer tables likely, but front to back of the jointer can’t be a huge change?

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Collegeville PA (30 min west of Philly)
    Posts
    1,143
    Blog Entries
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Day View Post
    Would you be able to raise your TS up a little to allow the bigger jointer to tuck under the left TS wing?

    And how much bigger really is it? Longer tables likely, but front to back of the jointer can’t be a huge change?
    I have the saw raised up about 3 inches already so that my existing jointer can nest under the left wing enough to help my space restriction (and also because I find it more comfortable at 6'2" height to work on a slightly taller surface). This nesting helps the walkway "squeeze" between jointer and sander, but it's still a bit tight. Also, the motor access door on side of cabinet is a limiter (and needs to be reasonably easy to get into for cleaning/maintenance).

    If I move to an 8" jointer, I could still nest to mostly mitigate the pinch by the sander... but I suspect it'll get a bit tighter, to the point of going from "squeeze" to downright "can't fit". Also, the new jointer is quite a bit longer, so the squeeze scenario (currently limited to the sander zone... or one step's worth of that pathway) now extends to the cabinet area (or about 3 steps worth of that pathway).

    I do a lot of assembly work on the table saw outfeed, so that pathway needs to be open enough to allow easy access. So, I think if I go bigger on jointer, cabinet and sander need to go someplace else.
    - Bob R.
    Collegeville PA (30 minutes west of Philly)

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    22,492
    Blog Entries
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Riefer View Post
    Also, the motor access door on side of cabinet is a limiter (and needs to be reasonably easy to get into for cleaning/maintenance).
    Just to give you more data to use when making your decision. My router table is on the left of my tablesaw. It is a cabinet of its own but, the table tops are joined to make a seamless work surface. When I changed saws the motor housing changed to the left. I figured, removing four bolts to move the router table in the event of the tablesaw requiring maintenance was acceptable. I have done this exactly zero times in the last 7 years. My point is that ease of this access is no longer a factor for me when determining things.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Collegeville PA (30 min west of Philly)
    Posts
    1,143
    Blog Entries
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by glenn bradley View Post
    My point is that ease of this access is no longer a factor for me when determining things.
    I feel like I may jinx myself :-) I'm probably just feeling a bit snake bitten after the "table saw dying and needing major surgery" period that I recently went through. But you're right... prior to that, it had been a decade of worry-free use (and I'm hoping for at least that much time on the new saw... fingers crossed!). So, accessibility for repairs isn't a primary concern (but it's on the list)
    - Bob R.
    Collegeville PA (30 minutes west of Philly)

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
    Posts
    9,876
    I found most drawer fronts etc that I make are 8" wide or less. So I can not justify anything bigger then that in my small shop. I was making a lot of stuff just over 6" wide so I upgraded.
    Bil lD

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •