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Thread: Moxon v2.2

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Ingleside, IL
    Posts
    1,417

    Moxon v2.2

    When I first saw a moxon I was not sure of it's efficacy and didn't want to spend a bunch of time making one if I wasn't going to use it. So v1 was construction lumber and pipe clamps. After about 3 months of using it periodically, I realized it was pretty nifty. So v2.1 was made from an old routing jig that I didn't care for and repurposed. (I've posted about it before.) And I used the crap out of it for all sorts of things, not just dovetails. But it had draw backs: wasn't wide enough; was too high; wasn't very pretty; the screws were too low in the chops so that the front chop could tilt when clamping something narrow horizontally. So v2.2.....

    When we bought our house it came with about 30 small bookcases that I've used everywhere, and I screwed 2 back to back, put casters on em, and towel bars for clamps, and have it next to the bench all the time. So the top is a perfect place to permanently install the moxon. It's made from a 10/4 piece of poplar, with a QSWO top, and front chop. The screws are 18" Yost vice screws, and they run in plastic pipe let in to the poplar. It's 30 inches wide with about 24" between the screws. I lowered it so it is line with my elbow and cutting is much better now - the old one was about 4" taller. I find it easier to cut straight and plumb now.

    I like being able to clamp the boards during marking, and to flush them up, so the T track was mandatory. And the fender washers are recessed so I can mount the lights that help these old eyes see what the hell is going on. Aligning the boards is easy with the speed square - I was going to make a jig but figured why bother. I now use a router for waste removal (thanks Derek) so I made a platform from a scrap piece of walnut and can secure it with the t track, and it's routed about a 1/4" deep on the top 1 1/4" so the router bit can do it's work all the way to the inside face. Whats nice is that I can fit the joint at the upper end and let the router take care of the bottom corners since the bearing runs on the top.

    This may or may not be the last one - I'll see how it goes. It's screwed together so I can make mods if required.

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    Stand for something, or you'll fall for anything.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Edwardsville, IL.
    Posts
    1,673
    Hi Bill. Looks like it would work well for you. Nice job. There is a person on you tube that incorporated a rabbit on both halves of his moxon, for the soul purpose of using the router to remove most of the waste.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Ingleside, IL
    Posts
    1,417
    Thx Ron - so far so good. It has worked well and I find I use it for lots of things. Having the lights is a big plus - old eyes can't see very well. And I was thinking about rabbits in both chops so I wouldn't need the walnut platform all the time. Will have to give that a try.
    Stand for something, or you'll fall for anything.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    Lafayette, CA
    Posts
    830
    Bill, that's a clever use of three dimensions. Congratulations on a thoughtful design.

    Tell us what kind of vises you used.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Ingleside, IL
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    1,417
    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Jones 5443 View Post
    Bill, that's a clever use of three dimensions. Congratulations on a thoughtful design.

    Tell us what kind of vises you used.

    Sorry Bob - didn't see this until today. I used a pair of Yost Tools 18" vise screws. From Amazon
    Stand for something, or you'll fall for anything.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    Lafayette, CA
    Posts
    830
    Bill, I’m still slouching toward making mine, and yours has been an inspiration. I’ve saved all your photos since March.

    Now that this post has come up again I see that you had already answered my question. I also took note of the part about running the screws in plastic pipe. That sounds sensible to keep the wood from wearing, and you can just replace the pipe from time to time. I was getting all hung up on using bronze bushings, but have found them impossible to bore out side to side to allow the chop to swing slightly. Plastic should be easy to file.

    Thanks for repeating your answer and lighting up a new idea for me.

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