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Thread: Reversed Fritz and Franz Jig

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    7,247

    Reversed Fritz and Franz Jig

    As some know, my table saw is a Hammer K3 with a 49" slider. This has a crosscut fence at the foot of the slider, and no outrigger down the other end. Inspired by the Fritz and Frans jig, I built a fence at the end of the slider to emulate the outrigger, which forms the basis of the way the F&F is used traditionally ...



    I must admit that I have had mixed feelings about my experience of the F&F to date. It is an effort to set up the end section. It should not be so. And if I want to use the full length of the slider, the crosscut fence needs to be removed.

    It occurred to me that I have been doing this all wrong. This is not how my K3 works. This K3 is centred on the crosscut fence, while those with longer sliders centre on a crosscut fence at the other end. So I decided to turn the F&F around.

    A few weeks ago I posted adding a UHMW zero clearance section to the end of the crosscut fence ....





    Today I made the sliding end ...





    The black UHMW block under the Incra hold down is just a spacer.

    The rear handle twists to tighten and lock it down (after it is pushed into the workpiece), creating a solid stop/crosscut fence.

    The track comes from Felder ...



    The Incra holddown further stabilises a workpiece ...



    Everything is now happening at the foot of the slider ...



    The little spacer is for narrow boards ...



    Minus the Incra ...



    So far this is just experimental. I will post my experiences later on. For those with similar sliders to mine, this is a quicker and easier F&F jig than the traditional one.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
    Posts
    9,937
    Hi Derek, I have the same sliding table as you on a B3, with both a crosscut fence and an outrigger with fence.

    I use my F&F with the fixed end against the edging shoe normally, Iíll try it out just using the outrigger fence as the fixed F&F.......Regards, Rod

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    7,247
    Rod, I will be interested to hear your experience. Note that my sliding section can be clamped to the slider so that it does not move when you push on it.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    52,362
    I guess what I'm not getting here is the lack of measurement on the "Far End" side here. No issue for cleaning that first edge, but what about parallel rips? (That's what I primarily use my F&F for on my slider)
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    7,247
    Jim, how do you do a parallel rip?

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Manassas, VA
    Posts
    722
    I mostly use my F@F jig for parallel cut and for small parts. My rear part stay against fence and front part sliding. Both parts has a fence with tape and adjustable stops, like Incra from Derek post. My biggest dislike of this - needs to raise blade with guard high enough for end of the jig fence to be able slide along saw blade or just remove the guard and loosing above table dust collection ability.

    Ed.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    52,362
    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post
    Jim, how do you do a parallel rip?

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Just like you show in your very first photo...between the two pieces of the F&F with the scales set the same.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

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