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Thread: Finish for Table Saw Sled

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    202
    Quote Originally Posted by Pete Costa View Post
    Sorry John, I should have provided more info to begin with. I use an oil based polyurethane (I doubt water based would mix with the others). I combine it with either tung or linseed oil (whatever is on hand), and then mineral spirits or turpentine to thin it out. 1/3, 1/3, 1/3 is the basic mix, but don't break out the measuring cups. Eye-balling it seems to be fine. I've used this on my workbench and assembly table as well as jigs. Wears well and glue pops right off. As others have noted, you may not need anything on a sled. I did it in an attempt to seal the MDF, and then waxed the bottom to reduce friction. Probably overkill for a jig that may have a limited lifetime.
    Thanks for the specifics. I don't keep a lot of oil based finishes on hand but your brew sounds interesting.

    I ended up with two thin poly coats on the bottom and one on the rest. Going to wax the bottom too. I made it with micro-jig slots for clamps

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,854
    I don't generally put finishes on shop jigs. Many are just temporary for a specific job and those that are more permanent are just fine "totally nude". But in the rare event I do slather something on, it's either shellac or whatever else is lying about. I have older water borne finishes that I wouldn't use for a client or personal project, but for shop use, they are just fine.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Columbus, OH
    Posts
    3,064
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    I don't generally put finishes on shop jigs. Many are just temporary for a specific job and those that are more permanent are just fine "totally nude". But in the rare event I do slather something on, it's either shellac or whatever else is lying about. I have older water borne finishes that I wouldn't use for a client or personal project, but for shop use, they are just fine.
    Pretty much the same, but if I were to want to put a finish on my sleds, I think I would use ArmRSeal and then buff it with steel wool. Ends up smooth like a baby's b.... I would still though keep the runners waxed and the TS top polished - I use Glide Coat for all my iron surfaces.
    Brian

    "Any intelligent fool can make things bigger or more complicated...it takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." - E.F. Schumacher

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Central New Jersey
    Posts
    1,008
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Bender View Post
    Mine is unfinished 3/16" plywood and Basswood

    Attachment 427088
    Weighs about 2 pounds, can be put on or off with one hand
    And it stay's flat?

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    2,770
    Yes, why would it warp? This is linoleum floor underlayment. It had better stay flat!

  6. I really don't see any good functional reason to put finish on mine. I won't look down on others if they choose to, but I really don't see how it makes sense from a purely functional point of view. I have on occasion rubbed some wax on the runners or even the rest of the bottom to make them slide better.

    I also do put finish on some of my jigs and shop made tools but I do that for purely aesthetic reasons. I tend to do that when they are made of scraps of really nice wood. I don't claim it makes a lot of sense even then, but I sometimes can't resist

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