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Thread: Too thick arbor?

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Okotoks AB
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    1,846
    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Riefer View Post
    I'll give this another "really?" :-) I mean.... I can barely accomplish the task... past other saws (with some of the same blades I'm using now) were snug and took some care and finesse, but were easily doable in under 30 seconds for a blade, and under 1 minute for a dado stack. I'm literally over 5 minutes to change a blade, and 10 minutes for dado stack. That seems really different from past experiences...
    I agree with you Bob. There's no way it should be so tight that blade changes are difficult. On my current saw, it's very snug, but blade changes are not difficult. I had a Jet saw with the same problem as your's. A light touch with fine sandpaper on the running arbor did the trick. It didn't take much though, so go carefully.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Collegeville PA (30 min west of Philly)
    Posts
    671
    Thanks again everyone! I'll be extremely conservative in "sanding" the arbor and report back on the results
    - Bob R.
    Collegeville PA (30 minutes west of Philly)

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    52,276
    The arbor on my slider is pretty darn snug with my blades...very close tolerance. Fortunately, I don't change blades very often.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  4. #19
    Are you using coated blades?

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    So Cal
    Posts
    2,596
    My tablesse blades fit tight on my saw too it's a 3/4 inch arbor. I also don't change blades very often. The blade on my saw has been on there for 2 years min.
    Better too tight then loose.
    Good luck

  6. #21
    My dado blade was so tight on my Unisaw, was hard to install and uninstall. My friend, retired machinist used a reamer to remove a tiny bit from the blade hole, and it would slide on. He removed less than 1/1000.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Peoria, IL
    Posts
    1,648
    This is the second table saw arbor discussion going. Both the same brand, curious!

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Collegeville PA (30 min west of Philly)
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    671
    Lol. Gotta love a not helpful brand bashing post. Thanks for the help!!
    - Bob R.
    Collegeville PA (30 minutes west of Philly)

  9. #24
    My jet cabinet saw was impossibly tight.
    I used a small amount of valve lapping compound. Turned saw on and held a cloth on the arbor for about 15 secs all good after that.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Peoria, IL
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    1,648
    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Riefer View Post
    Lol. Gotta love a not helpful brand bashing post. Thanks for the help!!
    I already helped with an earlier post suggesting I would work on the blades and not the arbor. This was just an observation, if I wanted to bash a brand don't you think I would mention the brand?

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Shorewood, WI
    Posts
    768
    When you use the dado set, does it give a flatter bottomed dado than it did on the saw with a looser fit?

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Collegeville PA (30 min west of Philly)
    Posts
    671
    Quote Originally Posted by Alan Schwabacher View Post
    When you use the dado set, does it give a flatter bottomed dado than it did on the saw with a looser fit?
    Not that I have noticed.. then again, direct comparison is impossible at this point as my old saw lives with a retired guy in New Jersey :-) Dado stack and all other cuts worked great before and they work great still.

    Also, my other experiences installing blades were always very snug fits (never "looser")... snug-yet-doable. I'm currently in the so-snug-it's-barely-doable range. I'm just going to use light hand pressure with an extremely fine grit sand paper to ever so slightly "polish" the arbor threads, and then I can also wrap the same sand paper around a 1/2" dowel to very gently address each of my blades. I think that'll do it.
    - Bob R.
    Collegeville PA (30 minutes west of Philly)

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Arlington, TX
    Posts
    132
    My early '90's Unisaw (bought new) has always been tough to change blades.

    Especially my Freud dado blades are tight (mid 90's bought new), but my Freud carbide sawblades are a little bit easier.

    I'd rather they be a little snug than too loose!

    This is compared to either the cabinet table saw in HS WW shop class (unknown mfg, and old in the late 70s), or to my grandpa's Delta Tilting Arbor saw (not a Unisaw, it used a single flat, toothed belt) that he bought new in the late 60's or early 70's. Neither of these were sloppy, but also not tight enough to notice (at least to me at the time).

    Andy - Arlington TX

  14. #29
    Have you measured the diameter of the arbor where the tightness occurs? That's where I would start.

  15. #30
    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Riefer View Post
    Really? You think it should be so tight it's barely doable? I've changed blades on about a dozen saws over the years, and all have fit snugly and easily... In this case, I'm literally fighting with a blade for 5-10 minutes at time, trying different techniques, jiggle this way or that way, less pressure or more pressure, rotate it while installing, don't rotate while installing, cursing at it (that seemed to help).....
    That’s not right- I’ve never had that problem with my G1023. Did you contact tech support about that? I think carefully “sanding” the arbor down is your best bet.

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