Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 30

Thread: Too thick arbor?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Collegeville PA (30 min west of Philly)
    Posts
    641

    Too thick arbor?

    Seriously difficult to get blades on the arbor of my new-to-me g0691 table saw. Is that a thing? Best fix?
    - Bob R.
    Collegeville PA (30 minutes west of Philly)

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
    Posts
    3,643
    Do you mean diameter? Is it metric or English? 5/8 or one inch diameter or something else entirely?
    Bil lD

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Collegeville PA (30 min west of Philly)
    Posts
    641
    5/8 diameter. The hole in the center of the blade just barely fits. Changing blades doable but a tough chore
    - Bob R.
    Collegeville PA (30 minutes west of Philly)

  4. #4
    Ive filed a bevel on blades inside and out, it makes a big difference when stuff is tight.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
    Posts
    3,643
    I had some shaper cutters that were too tight on the spindle. I took a 3/4" twist drill and spun the cutters for a few seconds on the drill bit. All by hand. It took a few tries but they now slid on nice and easy but still stay tight and aligned. I could have used an adjustable reamer for mo0re accuracy. i did not see any metal removed so it was just a tiny amount. probably just a micro burr or two that got knocked down.
    Bil lD

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Griswold Connecticut
    Posts
    6,587
    It will wear in in time. My T/S was very tight when new, and still is at times, but it " wore" in.
    You can hold a Hard Arkansas stone against the threaded section if the arbor, while turning it by hand, to knock off any micro burrs.
    "The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Highland MI
    Posts
    3,850
    Blog Entries
    11
    Try using a strip of emery cloth on the running arbor to take a few tenths off of it's diameter. Abom79 trick.
    NOW you tell me...

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Collegeville PA (30 min west of Philly)
    Posts
    641
    Thanks guys! I was thinking of (with saw unplugged) holding a piece of (say) 400 grit sand paper around the arbor while turning the arbor by hand as a first step. Sounds like this brainstorm may be about on the right path. I'll take it very conservatively as the blades DO fit so not a lot of adjustment needed... they're just a bugger to get on and off (took 10 minutes to uninstall dado stack the other day!)
    - Bob R.
    Collegeville PA (30 minutes west of Philly)

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    51,562
    It's kinda supposed to be that way, Bob...but you can take some 600-800 grit paper or some emery cloth to the arbor to VERY SLIGHTLY clean it up by hand. It should loosen slightly over time, too, as someone mentioned. A little WD-40 to lubricate can also help, but only a little bit...you should wipe off any excess before tightening things down.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Collegeville PA (30 min west of Philly)
    Posts
    641
    Really? You think it should be so tight it's barely doable? I've changed blades on about a dozen saws over the years, and all have fit snugly and easily... In this case, I'm literally fighting with a blade for 5-10 minutes at time, trying different techniques, jiggle this way or that way, less pressure or more pressure, rotate it while installing, don't rotate while installing, cursing at it (that seemed to help).....
    - Bob R.
    Collegeville PA (30 minutes west of Philly)

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Peoria, IL
    Posts
    1,502
    How many different blades have you put on the saw? I'd have a tendency to remove a little from the blade vs the arbor. But that's just me.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Collegeville PA (30 min west of Philly)
    Posts
    641
    Good question.. I've tried 4 blades (2 used, 2 new) and my dado stack. I experienced the same symptoms in each of those cases... Got each of them installed, but each one was a yell-inducing event.
    - Bob R.
    Collegeville PA (30 minutes west of Philly)

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    olmsted falls,ohio
    Posts
    421
    My unisaw is 15 years old and still tight to get on.like jim said itís supposed to be that way.my stacked dado is a pain also.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Collegeville PA (30 min west of Philly)
    Posts
    641
    I'll give this another "really?" :-) I mean.... I can barely accomplish the task... past other saws (with some of the same blades I'm using now) were snug and took some care and finesse, but were easily doable in under 30 seconds for a blade, and under 1 minute for a dado stack. I'm literally over 5 minutes to change a blade, and 10 minutes for dado stack. That seems really different from past experiences...
    - Bob R.
    Collegeville PA (30 minutes west of Philly)

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Central WI
    Posts
    5,435
    Poor machining. Fix with emory or make the company send a new one. That is not right. Dave

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •