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Thread: Powermatic PM1000 Motor Upgrade Question

  1. #1
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    Powermatic PM1000 Motor Upgrade Question

    I am considering a PM1000 with the 1-3/4 HP motor bacause that is the limit of my current electrical service in the garage.

    How much would be involved, if I ever get upgraded service, to put in a bigger motor say to 3 HP ? Cost? Degree of difficulty? Practicality?

  2. #2
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    tool type?

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Dufour View Post
    tool type?
    I think the PM1000 is a cabinet saw.

    Mike
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  4. #4
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    I think powermatic uses a c-face motor for their cabinets saws.
    Bil lD

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Dufour View Post
    tool type?
    If you are asking me what type of tool a PM1000 is then with all due respect I doubt you would know the answer. It is cabinet style table saw.

  6. #6
    I upgraded my sawstop from the 1.75hp (120v) to 3hp (220v) motor. I don't know what kind of motor or mount you need for the powermatic, but maybe you could purchase the more powerful motor directly from them so you know it would be compatible. In addition to replacing the actual motor, I needed to install a new contactor switch. Then it's just a question of wiring the new switch to the motor and then changing the plug on the power cord of the saw. The process of installing the motor took a few hours, which included removing the cast iron tables and then re-adjusting the saw after re-assembly.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by John McKissick View Post
    If you are asking me what type of tool a PM1000 is then with all due respect I doubt you would know the answer. It is cabinet style table saw.
    I didnít know what it was either, but I deal with a few motors.

    If you want Ďremove & replaceí, then the first step is to determine the motorís frame size (see nameplate). Any simple swap will require you match the new motor to this. There is some overlap in frame sizes, but not a lot: a 1.75hp frame will likely overlap to 2hp; getting to 3hp may be tough.

    As Scott points out, the electricals will need to match.

    Regardless of the tool, Iíd budget at least $150 per horsepower for the motor and $80-$150 for electrical components - if all new. Used cost will be all over the map, and simply depend on luck and patience.
    Last edited by Malcolm McLeod; 02-26-2020 at 11:15 AM. Reason: typo & a little light on motor $$$
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by John McKissick View Post
    If you are asking me what type of tool a PM1000 is then with all due respect I doubt you would know the answer. It is cabinet style table saw.
    It's a valid question, John...most folks don't know tools by model numbers since there are literally thousands of them and clarification helps people provide helpful responses. I've been here since 2003 and while I suspected this was a saw, I didn't know for sure.

    My answer to your question, given it's a cabinet saw, is that assuming you can source a heavier motor with the same mount and the arbor, et al, is heavy enough to handle the extra torque, you should be fine.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by John McKissick View Post
    I am considering a PM1000 with the 1-3/4 HP motor bacause that is the limit of my current electrical service in the garage.

    How much would be involved, if I ever get upgraded service, to put in a bigger motor say to 3 HP ? Cost? Degree of difficulty? Practicality?
    Well I called tech support and the guy said they don't sell a motor upgrade and braket along with electronics would need to be changed as I was told here.
    Don't know why I didn't think to call in the first place but thanks to all for replying and I do appologize for not being more specific of what I was talking about.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Dufour View Post
    tool type?
    Sorry for my answer that appeared more curt than I intended after I went back a re-read it. I did neglect to say it was a table saw.

  11. #11
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    You will need to upgrade the heaters in the motor starter or turn the dial up to higher amps. Or you may have to replace the whole switch gear setup. Check the motor for a NEMA frame number and try to match that to a new motor. If it matches it should bolt up with no problems. Watch the shaft diameter and keyway is the same and it is long enough.
    My suggestion is always to put a short cord and plug on the motor and a short cord and receptacle off the switch. This makes for easy motor changes now and in the future. You can wire the motor on the bench with the cord. While the motor is out of the way, sitting on the bench, wire the cabinet. Then simply install the motor and plug it in.
    Bil lD

    PS: when you bench wire the motor test it before installation just to make sure it is correct.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by John McKissick View Post
    that is the limit of my current electrical service in the garage.
    Due to the cost and hassle of swapping out the motor later, Iíd be inclined to invest the money in upgrading the service. I know itís not always feasible, but 220v service opens up a lot of possibilities down the road.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Dufour View Post
    You will need to upgrade the heaters in the motor starter or turn the dial up to higher amps. Or you may have to replace the whole switch gear setup. Check the motor for a NEMA frame number and try to match that to a new motor. If it matches it should bolt up with no problems. Watch the shaft diameter and keyway is the same and it is long enough.
    My suggestion is always to put a short cord and plug on the motor and a short cord and receptacle off the switch. This makes for easy motor changes now and in the future. You can wire the motor on the bench with the cord. While the motor is out of the way, sitting on the bench, wire the cabinet. Then simply install the motor and plug it in.
    Bil lD

    PS: when you bench wire the motor test it before installation just to make sure it is correct.
    It's not a 3 Ph motor, so it will have integral OL protection. He just needs to ensure that the starter is big enough to handle the current of the larger motor.

  14. #14
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    That's Powermatic's newest saw and its target market was someone in exactly your position.

    Hobbyist shop without 220v.

    I doubt the saw's trunnions would support a 3hp motor. Because if they could , I'm sure PM would be more than happy to sell you one since they already have them in their lineup.

    This is looks to me like old Craftsman ZipCode saw's that have been given the Powermatic treatment.

    Given your situation and statements, I think I'd consider a beefier cabinet saw and downgrade the motor to 1.75hp. That way you get the benefits of the heavier duty saw and can still run it on 110v. If you get 220v , your upgrade path is already set.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Sabo View Post
    That's Powermatic's newest saw and its target market was someone in exactly your position.

    Hobbyist shop without 220v.

    I doubt the saw's trunnions would support a 3hp motor. Because if they could , I'm sure PM would be more than happy to sell you one since they already have them in their lineup.

    This is looks to me like old Craftsman ZipCode saw's that have been given the Powermatic treatment.

    Given your situation and statements, I think I'd consider a beefier cabinet saw and downgrade the motor to 1.75hp. That way you get the benefits of the heavier duty saw and can still run it on 110v. If you get 220v , your upgrade path is already set.
    The tech support guy at PM said the trunions would easily handle the added torque and loads but indicated it would be impractical to upgrade

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