Need help getting keyed chuck off Delta Drill press

[Jim Tobias]

I have a Delta 17-925 drill press that I have had for many years. Still works great....but I recently ordered a Llambrich keyless chuck to put on it to make changing bits, etc. easier and faster.
I have tried the "tapping on all side " method but cannot get it to drop out. I am probably missing something in my attempts so I thought it was time to turn to this knowledgeable group for some advice. How do I get this off?
From the pictures below you can see the way it is mounted....also it is a JT 33.
Any advice is greatly appreciated.

[johnny means]

Is the spindle hollow? All my drill press and mills allow the spindle to be knocked out from above. Also, make sure it doesn't have a drawer bolt installed.

[Jim Tobias]

There is no hollowed out area on the side of the spindle. I have looked up from the bottom(in the middle of the jaws) and I do not see a screw/bolt inside.

Jim

[Bill Dufour]

Lower quill all the way. There should be two slots on opposite sides for a wedge near the top.
If not that looks like a threaded collar to drive the chuck off a fixed male arbor. Screw that nut down to force the chuck off.
Bil lD

[Jim Tobias]

John,
What is a "drift key" and what is it used for?
Thanks,
Jim

[John Gornall]

It's a wedge with a curved edge - goes in the slot in the spindle and pushes the chuck shaft out when you tap it in with a hammer

[John Gornall]

Search drill press drift key on youtube

[John Gornall]

The drift key for my Delta drill press hangs on a nail on the wall. I take out the chuck annually to clean and oil making sure no corrosion.

[Jon Nuckles]

A drift key, if your drill press accepts one, would remove the arbor and chuck together. If your new chuck accepts a JT33 taper, you probably want to remove only the chuck from the arbor. The best method to do that is typically a pair of wedges sized for your chuck. Google will find you many descriptions of how to use them.

[Mark Daily]

I also had a JT33 chuck on my drill press. I ordered these wedges from amazon to remove it.

Wedge Sets Set No.: #2 WEDGE SET, Used on JACOB Taper No.: 2JT https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0067BSFI0..._NP.uEbEEDQEYD

Just place then on opposite sides of the arbor above the chuck. Back one with something like a sledge hammer and lightly pound the other side with a hammer to force the wedges together. The chuck should pop off easily. Be ready to catch it as it comes off quickly!

Mine came off with the first tap.

[Walter Plummer]

Here is a good video that show how. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WK7GE7Tbshk.

[Thomas Canfield]

"Poor folks have Poor Ways". Take a couple of small chisels or similar tapered steel and put on each side of shaft and tap. The wedge will then force off the chuckl from the morse taper drive. Large flat blade screwdrivers might also give enough wedge. Just looked at my drill press and it will work. You should be able to find some wedges on hand - no purchase required, but then you can buy. The drift pin is used to remove the chuck mounted on the morse taper drive.

[Jim Tobias]

Thanks to all for the suggestions and ideas. I still have not been able to get the chuck or morse taper out.
Let me reiterate....I do not have a slot in the side of the quill so there is no drift key or use of a drift key that would help on this one. I have viewed about a dozen youtube/and others videos, but none of them are describing this type of set up. Today I called delta and got their only tech on duty and he seemed to think that I would have to take the belt and pulley spindle off up top and said that there should be a screw/nit that is holding the morse tapor/spindle in the quill. This sounds like overkill but he may be right. Does any of this sound sensible about a JT 33 tapor removal?
Below are pictures of the quill/chuck and also the keyless chuck I want to install. They only seem to make these with the tapor as part of the whole mechanism.

Thanks again.....keep the ideas coming...…..something has to work.
Sorry about sideways photos......I made them smaller and flipped them but they still come through sideways on the site.

Jim

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[Thomas Canfield]

Here is link to picture of the #2 MT to JT33 https://www.mcmaster.com/morse/morse...-chuck-arbors/ . There is normally never a thread at the JT33 end. The photo you provided for the new Liambrich keyless chuck says solid MT2 shank. In the earlier threads it sounded like you are only trying to remove the chuck from the JT33 end of the existing installation. That will require use of wedges (of some configuration) between the JT33 and existing chuck to remove the old chuck. Looking at a parts diagram on line shows the spindle to be a long shaft with the JT33 taper on end, and that shaft is held in place by a "special nut". You should not have to remove the spindle, just use wedges to separate chuck.

[John Gornall]

What about the hole just above the chuck in the last picture - is it a roll pin or setscrew?

Is the shaft at the top that holds the pulley hollow - some MT require a rod down the shaft to tap it out as does the headstock on my lathe