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Thread: Shop Dust Collection? PICS

  1. #1

    Shop Dust Collection? PICS

    I finally decided to install rigid dust collection ducts after experiencing the hassle of moving flexible hoses from machine to machine. I looked at PVC, galvanized steel duct both spiral and smooth wall and the Nordfab stuff. The Nordfab system is appealing but the advantages don't seem to outweigh the cost savings and availability using ordinary galv. steel duct. My installation would be fairly simple involving two straight runs in an L shape with three drop downs; one to a lathe, another to a jointer and planer and the last in the run to a tablesaw with table mounted router and separate shaper. My Powermatic 2hp dust collector might be too small for the task but I was hoping to use it until being able to afford something more powerful. I thought a good place to position it might be a small space at the end of a mezzanine, which is at one end of one duct run. The outlet would be very close to the elevation of the duct runs. The duct run with two drop downs would be along the wall where most of the machines are located. A good place to run it might be wedged between the rafter ties and joists. Attached are a couple of pics of the areas mentioned. Any comments or suggestions? Sorry for the clutter and disorganized mess in the shop. This is something I know needs to be improved.
    Misc 001.jpgMisc 002.jpgMisc 003.jpg
    Last edited by Steve Mathews; 02-21-2020 at 6:52 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    I have no better idea's for your dust collection, but I sure would love to have that space!

  3. #3
    Thanks Justin!

    I just priced out a rough layout using Nordfab and it came out to $1388 as opposed to $279 using locally available spiral duct. The estimate is not complete but the comparison involves the same material. The Nordfab pipe is 22 gauge while the spiral is 26 gauge. Besides being a more stout material the Nordfab should be easier to install and adapt to future changes. However it's difficult to justify the significant increase in cost of Nordfab.

  4. #4
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    If I ever got a new shop, I'd probably use spiral for the guts of the duct work with quality wyes and only employ Nordfab (or magnetic connections) for any machine connections/drops that might be disconnected with some level of frequency. I use Nordfab quick disconnects for my CNC, router table and drum sander, for example. I use a rubber Fernco boot for that purpose on my J/P. I'm not a fan of PVC/ABS for dust collection but certainly appreciate its appeal for cost and availability for many folks. I certainly wouldn't want it for the CNC, however, because even the most minor incident of static electricity can seriously affect the machine.

    Nice space, by the way!
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  5. #5
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    y
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Mathews View Post
    Thanks Justin!

    I just priced out a rough layout using Nordfab and it came out to $1388 as opposed to $279 using locally available spiral duct. The estimate is not complete but the comparison involves the same material. The Nordfab pipe is 22 gauge while the spiral is 26 gauge. Besides being a more stout material the Nordfab should be easier to install and adapt to future changes. However it's difficult to justify the significant increase in cost of Nordfab.
    That is a big cost difference and if you are not running a 10hp dust collector, i'd say 26g duct would be pretty good. People even use 30g with lower hp collectors. I am going on a guess but i would bet the number of collapsed 30G with a 2 or 3 hp collector is low, let alone a 26g.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    If I ever got a new shop, I'd probably use spiral for the guts of the duct work with quality wyes and only employ Nordfab (or magnetic connections) for any machine connections/drops that might be disconnected with some level of frequency. I use Nordfab quick disconnects for my CNC, router table and drum sander, for example. I use a rubber Fernco boot for that purpose on my J/P. I'm not a fan of PVC/ABS for dust collection but certainly appreciate its appeal for cost and availability for many folks. I certainly wouldn't want it for the CNC, however, because even the most minor incident of static electricity can seriously affect the machine.

    Nice space, by the way!
    What makes a quality wye or other fitting for use with spiral duct?

    Thanks for the heads up on the magnetic type of connection. I didn't know they exist.

  7. #7
    This may be a dumb question but is there a correct way of joining spiral pipe? In other words, should the female end of the connection be upstream to reduce the amount of obstruction in the duct? Or doesn't it make a difference?

    Edit: After doing a little more online research it seems that all spiral pipe ends are female and fittings male. So I gather from this that my above concern is moot.
    Last edited by Steve Mathews; 02-22-2020 at 4:20 PM.

  8. #8
    I've got 6" 26 guage HVAC duct feeding my 1 1/2 HP cyclone. I have not noticed any signs of it being crushed by the vacuum. If you have any doubts about it, try crushing some with your hands. I guarantee you can put more pressure on it than a system that might be able to achieve 10"-12" of static pressure.

  9. #9
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    The fittings to use with spiral are mades for spiral, you should be able to get some from your local hvac supply, you can also buy them from https://blastgateco.com/Spiral-Pipe-Fittings.php

    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Mathews View Post
    What makes a quality wye or other fitting for use with spiral duct?

    Thanks for the heads up on the magnetic type of connection. I didn't know they exist.
    Last edited by Mark e Kessler; 02-22-2020 at 9:54 PM.

  10. #10
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    yes is pricey, i just priced my small system for 7” main, branches and drops and between buying from three different sources best I could get was like $5500, then thinking that the most that changes are the location of machines so doing the main, branches with spiral and drops nordfab i came up with $350 for spiral and $2300 for nordfab. All spiral is like $850.

    Changes to spiral can be a pain, but I don’t think it’s worth 4 times the price. Also one thing I will do when I redo my current spiral which consists of under sized 6”, 5” ducting with a mix of mostly spiral fittings but some hvac crimped fitting is to uses all spiral fittings and layout the screw or rivet holes in the same place for all of it so when/if I need to reconfigure I dont end up with a million holes all over the place. Also btw silicon seal all the joints.




    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Mathews View Post
    Thanks Justin!

    I just priced out a rough layout using Nordfab and it came out to $1388 as opposed to $279 using locally available spiral duct. The estimate is not complete but the comparison involves the same material. The Nordfab pipe is 22 gauge while the spiral is 26 gauge. Besides being a more stout material the Nordfab should be easier to install and adapt to future changes. However it's difficult to justify the significant increase in cost of Nordfab.
    Last edited by Mark e Kessler; 02-22-2020 at 10:02 PM.

  11. #11
    Join Date
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    Nice shop. I used the spiral duct from Rockler. Not sure how the price compares but it was pretty easy to work with and I have made changes pretty easily.
    Michael Dilday
    Suffolk, Va.

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Mark e Kessler View Post
    The fittings to use with spiral are mades for spiral, you should be able to get some from your local hvac supply, you can also buy them from https://blastgateco.com/Spiral-Pipe-Fittings.php
    Thanks for the link to Blastgate. I plan to refine my material list today and apply their prices for both spiral and clamp together pipe. Their prices are the best I've seen so far. Hopefully their shipping costs are good too.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew More View Post
    I've got 6" 26 guage HVAC duct feeding my 1 1/2 HP cyclone. I have not noticed any signs of it being crushed by the vacuum.
    26 gage snap-lock (often called stove pipe) is just fine for most DC systems that are used in a typical hobbyist type shop or even small pro shop. 30 gage HVAC duct is to be avoided. Spiral is a bit heavier than the stove pipe The challenge with HVAC/Stove type duct work is that the common fittings for wyes are "backwards" relative to air flow direction for DC applications.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
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    I went with PVC, but I only have a 10 foot run of 6 inch piping before I hit my equipment. The small advantages a small shop offers. The ducting cost me about 160$ all in due to fittings and blast gates and hose.

  15. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    26 gage snap-lock (often called stove pipe) is just fine for most DC systems that are used in a typical hobbyist type shop or even small pro shop. 30 gage HVAC duct is to be avoided. Spiral is a bit heavier than the stove pipe The challenge with HVAC/Stove type duct work is that the common fittings for wyes are "backwards" relative to air flow direction for DC applications.
    That hasn't been my experience with the fittings I've gotten from the local HVAC supply house. Instead they seem to be designed to be crimped in the field.
    Last edited by Andrew More; 02-23-2020 at 3:52 PM.

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