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Thread: Hollowing Systems

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    E TN, near Knoxville
    Posts
    12,298
    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisA Edwards View Post
    ...I have now moved the Lyle Jamieson hollowing system to the top of my list.
    You might look for a used one. I bought one the other day complete with three JJordan tools, camera and monitor. Another guy offered to sell his Jamison for $100 but I don't know what if any tools came with it.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Lebanon, TN
    Posts
    1,720
    John, sent you a pm, but not sure it went through. Do you have the contact info for that other guy, thanks.

    I think you have my contact info from a fairly recent pm interchange we had.

  3. #33
    Wow what did you have to pay or your John? I have two of the JJ tools the bent and straight and use them on both my home made system and my Kobra.
    Pete


    * It's better to be a lion for a day than a sheep for life - Sister Elizabeth Kenny *
    I think this equates nicely to wood turning as well . . . . .

  4. #34
    I made a big, heavy, very stable boring bar holder out of 1" by 2" about 3 foot long cold rolled steel. I drilled two holes in each end so it can hold 3/4, 5/8, 1/2 and 3/8 inch boring bars or carbide router bits.

    I added set screws to hold the bars in place. Studidly simple is better because it's stupidly simple.

    I do have a second banjo to hold a captive tool rest like the Jamison uses. If you don't have a second banjo why don't you have a second banjo? Sooo useful. Like for the front and back side of a bowl or platter or long spindles. Or a captive tool rest.

    Cpb

  5. #35
    Clint any chance you have a photo or two?
    Pete


    * It's better to be a lion for a day than a sheep for life - Sister Elizabeth Kenny *
    I think this equates nicely to wood turning as well . . . . .

  6. #36
    I'm photo challenged. But I assure you it's a butt simple thing to do. Aquire a chunk of 1" by 2" cold rolled steel. A floor stand dtill press works best to drill the holes in the ends. Space the holes in from the sides so the wall thickness is slightly thicker than the length of your set screws. Tap holes for the set screws. I use two set screws for each hole. The deeper the boring bar holes the better. No welding...

    I hope this doesn't tank the deep hollowing device market... It's way more ridgid than any articulated system I can imagine. And it's scalable for length and cross section. Did I mention cheap and no welding?

    I have not added video or Lazer guidance to mine yet but holes could easily be tapped almost anywhere on the bar for extremely ridgid connections without the problems of tapping holes in not flat material.

    Cpb

  7. #37
    Thanks but I guess we all have our own set of challenges. I don't understand how a piece o 1 x 2 cold rolled steel would be held in my lathe. Probably best if I just accept that it works great and get on with using what I have!
    Pete


    * It's better to be a lion for a day than a sheep for life - Sister Elizabeth Kenny *
    I think this equates nicely to wood turning as well . . . . .

  8. #38
    Two banjos and a Jameson type captive back tool rest or a Jameson type captive tool rest which doesn't need an extra banjo.

    You also need a regular tool rest to support the boring bar at the work. Almost like the Jameson system but doesn't need the looping handle because 2" x 1" stock won't twist if captured. Wax the tool rests for smooth action.

    I use it to turn the inside of drum shells. Those are deep, large diameter staved shells. Mass and ridgidity are required to tame chattering.

    Cpb

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